Laurelle_Jeans_Skirt_-_instructions.pdf

Laurelle Jeans Skirt - instructions

Introduction

This is the first time I've tried to make an instruction. I found it quite a challenge to explain

the things I would sew without even thinking about it. Because of that, I direct you to

Burdastyle's trouser patterns for the instructions about the fly front. I really hope the other

instructions are OK and please let me know if there's anything I should change.

Good luck with making your skirt!

Fit and sizing

I have redrafted my original skirt design according to the sizes in the Burdastyle sizing table.

The pattern is in sizes 34 to 44. Just take your measurements (hip and waist) and check the

Burdastyle sizing table to pick the right size (pick the size that suits your hip measurement

and adapt at the waist if needed). This is ment to be a fitted skirt, while still allowing for

wearer comfort.

The skirt fits to the natural waist (if you want a lower fit, take some centimeters off the top of

the waistband) and is about 57 cm long.

Fabric and notions

fabric 140 cm wide: 1,50 meter for all sizes

fabric 110 cm wide: 1,70 meter for all sizes

This pattern is ideal for jeans fabrics (no real stretch needed), but would also would great in

other sturdy fabrics like thick corduroy.

You will also need a scrap of lining or thin cotton fabric of about 20 by 40 cm.

notions: sewing thread, topstitching yarn (or any other kind or thicker, decorative machine

stitching yarn), 1 zipper 12 cm long, 2 jeans buttons or trouser hooks, fusible interfacing (ask

for a weight that would work with your fabric), packet of cotton biais fold tape, jeans needle

for your sewing machine.

Cutting and interfacing

Seam allowances are included in all pattern pieces. WATCH OUT: the center back seam at

skirt back and yoke, as well as the center front seam (not including the fly) and the seam

between yoke and skirt back have 2 cm seam allowances, instead of the normal 1,5 cm

everywhere else. This is necessary for the flat felled seams in these places (if you're not

making those, you could trim off 0,5 cm already, or do so later).

1 skirt front - cut 2

2 skirt back - cut 2

3 back yoke - cut 2

4 front pocket - cut two in skirt fabric, then cut pattern piece along the curved line and cut it

(without the small corner) out of lining.

5 waistband back - cut 2 on the FOLD (with center back at foldline)

6 waistband front - cut 2 of the entire piece, then cut it along the dotted line and cut 2 more

7 fly flap - cut 1

8 back pocket - cut 2

interfacing: cut 1 back waistband on the fold, 1 front waistband long and 1 front waistband

short and a strip for each back pocket opening (the piece above the marks on the sidesof the

pattern piece). Trim seam allowance off interfacing pieces.

Notes

Before you start sewing, test the topstitching thread in your sewing machine. On most

machines, it doesn't work to put this thicker yarn on the bobbin for the underthread. You

should use quite a long chain stitch with it, so you will have to switch stitch lengths between

sewing and topstitching.

In my original design, I made ﬂat felled seams at center front and back and at the back yoke.

While I think this a great way to finish seams and it looks great in jeans, it can also be

challenging combined with the qualities of topstitching thread I mentioned above. If you

don't want to go to all that trouble, trim and finish the seam allowances normally (take care at

center back, you need those 2 cm at the slit), press them to one side and topstitch. I give the

instruction for ﬂat felled seams the first time they are used, and point back to that later.

Sewing

1 Stitch together skirt back and back yoke. Seam allowance here is 2 cm. When pinning the

curve, make sure to match it up at the marks. Press seam allowances open.

For FLAT FELLED SEAM, cut the seam allowance of the yoke back to between 0,5 a 1 cm,

press skirt seam allowance up over the yoke seam allowance and while doing so, fold under

the raw edge. For a 'normal' flat felled seam, you could now edge stitch along the folded edge

of the skirt seam allowance, encasing the raw edges of both seam allowance. However, this

will be the first topstitching detail on the skirt. If you can't use topstitching yarn as lower

thread (which is very likely), press the flat felled seams very well and then stitch it on the

right side of the fabric. For the real jeans look, make another line of topstitching on the edge

between the two pattern pieces.

If you don't want to use the flat felled seam, trim seam allowance to 1,5 and finish raw edges.

Press both seam allowances up and make a double line of topstitching on right side of fabric,

thereby sewing them in place.

2 Press in seam allowances and interfaced top part of back pocket (if you want to add

decorative stitching, do that first). Position pockets on back skirt pieces (bear in mind the 2

cm seam allowance of the center back seam) and stitch in place using topstitching thread.

3 Stitch center back seam (2 cm seam allowance) until 20 cm above lower edge. This will be

the back slit. Press seam allowance open, and then to the left (left on the right side of the

fabric, so right on the inside, where you are ironing it). One part of the split is now lying over

the other.

If you want to make a ﬂat felled seam , trim underlying seam allowance, and sew a piece of

biais tape around the raw edge of the trimmed slit edge.

Now, make a 1 cm wide vertical hem at the underlying part of the slit (or stitch down the part

finished with the biais tape), and press a 1 cm hem in the upper part.

Using topstitching thread, create a double line of topstitching (stitching your flat felled seams

in place) along the center back seam. When you get to the top of the slit, fold away the lower

part of the split (you need to lift foot and needle to do this) and then continue stitching in the

same line, sewing the slit's upper hem in place while you do so. Make a few horizontal

stitches (between the two vertical topstitching lines) at the upper end of the slit to reinforce it.

4 Front Pockets. Stitch pocket lining onto skirt front at the curved edge, right side facing.

Make little cut in the seam allowance along the curve and press open. Turn pocket lining to

the inside of the skirt and topstitch along the curve.

Stitch pocket and pocket lining together at long side (left on the pattern piece) and bottom.

Just to help make the front of the skirt one piece, I usually also stitch together skirt front,

pocket lining and pocket in the seam allowance at the side and top.

5 Fly. Please use the instructions in one of the Burdastyle trouser patterns to construct the fly.

I'm sorry, but I don't think I could explain it properly without illustrations (and I can't make

those) and I would hate to confuse you all.

6 Stitch center front seam (seam allowance 2 cm). Make flat felled seam or just topstitching.

7 Stitch side seams (1,5 cm seam allowance). Now, you can try the skirt on and adjust the fit

if necessary.

8 Stitch side seams of waist band. The un-interfaced band will come on the outside, take care

to put the longer end of the front waistband at the underlying side of the fly, so it will hold

the fly flap.

Stitch uninterfaced waistband along the top of the skirt. Press seam allowances open and then

up towards the waistband.

Stitch biais fold tape along lower edge of interfaced waistband.

Stitch waistbands together at upper edge and front. On the seam allowance, clip corners and

make cuts at curved lines. Press open and turn waistband right side out.

Stitching in the stitching line between skirt and waistband on the outside of the skirt, sew the

inside of the waistband in place (no need to turn in it's seam allowance, the biais tape finishes

the raw edge, and this way of constructing it prevents bulging in the lower edges of the

waistband). Topstitch if desired.

9 Hem the skirt

10 Make buttonholes and put in jeans button according to instrutions on the packet or sew on

trouser hooks.

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