5-1PleatsSkirt ByAnaJan Instructions.pdf

5+1 Pleats Skirt by AnaJan

Instructions

A skirt with one double-folded pleat on the left thigh, and five pleats on the right thigh.

Size 40 (waist 76cm, hips 100cm).

Note: the technical drawing shows six pleats on the right, while the pattern actually includes five

pleats. Also, while I was sewing the skirt, I noticed that the front skirt panel is approx. 2cm

longer than it is supposed to be, sorry for that. You can crop the extra length after you sew the

pieces together.

2. Top front yoke

3. Middle front yoke

4. Bottom front yoke

1. Front skirt panel

5. Back side godet

6. Back central godet

Notions:

• Light-weight wool, or any fabric that drapes well (1.30m x 1.40m)

• Lining (0.60m x 1.40m)

• Interfacing

• Invisible zipper

• Thread

• Topstitch thread

Cutting pieces – fashion fabric

The pattern does not include seam allowances. Before cutting the fabric, add 1.5cm wide seam

allowances (2cm for the bottom hem).

• Front skirt panel, cut once.

• Top front yoke, cut once

• Middle front yoke, cut once

• Bottom front yoke, cut once

• Back side godet, cut twice

• Back central godet, cut twice

Interfacing the pieces

The front yoke pieces and the back godet pieces need interfacing.

The front yoke pieces should be completely interfaced, as displayed on the images bellow. The

interfacing is applied to the wrong side of the fashion fabric.

The back pieces of fashion fabric should be interfaced in the waist area, as displayed on the

images bellow.

Pleats

When transferring the front panel pattern to the fashion fabric, make sure you transfer all the

pleat lines as well. You should have 4 pleat lines on the left and 17 pleat lines on the right side of

the font panel.

The image bellow displays front skirt’s panel wit pleat lines markings on it. Note that pleat lines

on the left will be referenced as LL1 – LL4 (left line) in the further text, starting from left to

right. The pleat lines on the right side of the panel will be referenced as RL1 – RL17 (right line)

in the further text, starting from right to left.

LL1

LL4

RL17

RL1

The left pleat

Fold the fabric, with right sides together, and hand baste it, running your stitches through lines

LL1 and LL4. It is important to perfectly match the LL1 and LL4 lines. Make short stitches,

approximately 5mm long, and secure the beginning and the end of the stitch line so that it won’t

get loosen.

Tip: pin the fabric in place first, and then hand - baste it. Start from the skirt’s hem line and baste

towards the waist line.

The pleats on the right

Fold the fabric, with right sides together, and hand baste it, matching the lines RL2 and RL4. For

all five pleats, match the following lines:

• RL2 – RL4

• RL5 – RL7

• RL8 – RL10

• RL11 – RL13

• RL14 – RL15

After you have finished the hand – basting process, your front panel should look as on the picture

bellow.

Stitch every pleat, starting from the top of the skirt panel to the pleat stitch notch.

Pleat stitch notch

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