6018 Jennifer blouse Instructions.pdf

PATTERN

1 Front piece 1x

2 Insert 1x

3 Insert / facing 1x

4 Front placket 1x

5 Back piece 1x

6 Back yoke 2x

7 Sleeves 2x

8 Cuff 2x

9 Cuff / facing 2x

10 Opening facing 2x

11 Bias strips (neckline) 1x

12 Loop 1x

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far

as necessary. Blend the side edges.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the centre line. Pattern

pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting

diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The

cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern

pieces should be placed on the fabric.

Fabrics: Cotton and jersey fabrics

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:

The patterns are printed out on 30 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so

that they fit together (see additional page with the overview

of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right

edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower

sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely. Select

your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses,

blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers

and skirts according to the hip width. If necessary, change the

pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the

Burda-size chart. Cut out the pattern according to your

size.

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern

on the fabric

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to

the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are

facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side.

The pattern pieces that are shown extending over the fold of

the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a

single layer of fabric.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on

average:

5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA

copying paper transfer the lines and signs of the pattern onto

the wrong fabric side. You will find instructions in the

packaging.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces

along the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". In this

way the proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern

pieces along the same line the same degree.

LINING

Cut the lining pieces according to the cutting diagram and

press onto the wrong fabric side.

SEWING

While sewing, the right fabric sides are facing.

Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right fabric side

using basting stitches.

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

BLOUSE

Back yokes / closure

1 Neaten the facing of the back yokes and fold

inside along the fold line. Pin. Work BUTTON

HOLES into the left yoke. Pin the left yoke on the

right yoke, centers meeting. Pin the bottom edges

together (1a).

2 Pin the back yoke on the back piece, right sides

facing. Baste the seam (seam 1) and stitch. Trim

allowances, neaten them together and press into

the back piece.

PLEATS

3 Fold the back piece along each pleat line,

wrong side inside. Topstitch the FOLD LINES

1/8” (4 mm) wide. Stitch the pleats on the front

piece in the same way.

SHOULDER SEAMS

Position the front piece on the back piece, right

sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam 2).

Neaten the allowances and press apart.

EDGE NECKLINE

4 Trim the allowance along the neckline

5 Pin the bias strips to the neckline, right sides

facing. Stitch 1/3” (8 mm) wide. Fold the edges

inside.

6 Turn the bias strips over the edge to the inside.

Fold the ends on a slant. Pin the bias strips.

INSERT

Stitch the pleats on the insert continuously with

the same spacing according to the text and

drawing 3, then press downwards.

7 Fold the insert in half at the front center, wrong

side inside. Pin the edges together. Pin the pattern

piece 3 on top, the centers meeting. Cut out the

insert along the pattern edges.

PLACKET

8 Fold the allowances of the side edges of the

placket inside, and press. Trim. Pin the placket to

the insert, centers meeting, then stitch.

9 Pin the placket (piece 3) to the insert, right sides

facing. Stitch the neckline edges together. Trim

allowances, snip in. Turn right side out. Pin the

edges and press. Pin the open raw edges together.

10 Pin the front piece to the insert, centers meeting,

the cross lines meeting the top insert edge. Seam

markings 3 should meet. Stitch continuously along

the strip, topstitching the insert and the strip on the

back piece neckline. Trim the allowances of bias

strip and insert, neaten altogether.

SIDE SEAMS

Position the front piece on the back piece, right

sides facing, pin the side seams (seam 4) and stitch.

Neaten allowances and press apart.

HEMLINE

11 Turn the hemline inside and press, fold and pin.

Stitch narrowly.

SLEEVES

12 To ease the sleeve caps, double-stitch from . to .

using basting stitches.

SLEEVE OPENING

13 Cut in the sleeve edge at the marking. Pull the

cut edges apart and pin them to the opening facing

according to the drawing, stitch. Press the facing.

14 Turn the facing inside, fold and pin along the

seam, stitch. Fold the opening, right sides facing.

Topstitch the facing at a slant as seen in the drawing

(14a).

15 Turn the facing along the front opening edge

inside and pin. Press. Fold the sleeves lengthwise,

wrong side out. Pin the sleeve seams and stitch.

Neaten allowances and press apart.

CUFFS

Stitch the pleats of the cuff and insert the same

spacing, press.

LOOPS

16 Fold the strips lengthwise, wrong side out. Stitch

¼” (7 mm) wide. Trim allowances. Use the thread

ends to thread a needle and knot. Push the needle

though the tube (16a). Cut the tube in 6 equally-sized

pieces.

17 Fold the loops and pin on the marked cross lines on

the facing (piece 9) as seen in the drawing. Turn the

top facing edge inside and press.

18 Pin the facing on the cuff, right sides facing, pin

the side and bottom edges together and stitch. Trim

allowances, cut the corners at a slant. Turn the cuffs

right side out. Pinning the edges, press.

19 Double stitch the bottom sleeve edge using basting

stitches. Pull the bobbin thread to create the gathers.

Knot threads. Distributing the width equally.

20 Pin the cuff to the lower sleeve edge, right sides

facing (seam 7). The underlap overlaps along the back

opening edge. Stitch. Secure seam ends. Trim

allowances and press inside the cuff. Pin the facing on

the seam line and stitch.

ATTACH SLEEVES

To ease the sleeve cap, pull the basting threads of the

seam line slightly.

21 Pin the sleeve on the armhole, right sides facing.

When attaching the sleeve, 4 points are important for

the right fit:

The cross lines of sleeve and front piece have to meet.

Sleeve and side seams have to meet. The cross line of

the sleeve cap has to meet the shoulder seam. The

eased width has to be distributed without puckering or

creating pleats. When attaching the sleeve first pin,

then stitch from the sleeve side

Trim allowances, neaten them and press inside the

sleeve.

BUTTONS

Handsew 6 buttons onto the front placket, spacing

them equally approximately 1 ¼” (3 cm) from the

edge. Sew the buttons on the back yoke fitting the

button holes, sew the buttons on the cuff fitting the

loops. Additionally, sew 3 buttons onto the right

shoulder seam as seen in the drawing.

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