wendyhouse.pdf

wendyhouse

HOW TO MAKE A WENDY HOUSE or PLAYHOUSE

This is the metric (mm) version

Click here for the imperial (ft and ins) version

Part One: The Floor and the Frame

The Wendy House.

This wendy house is basically a playhouse with a few feminine touches added. A wendy

house can give children hours of enjoyment. And with a little imagination, customized

touches can be added to create a unique and special environment.

This house stands 2 metres high, is 2.3 metres long and 1.2 metres wide with a 700mm

wide deck along the front.

Explanation of timber sizes.

The timber sizes referred to in this project are the finished or 'actual' sizes.

For example:

If you went along to the timber yard and asked for a piece of 75x50 mg framing, the actual

timber size would not be 75x50, but rather 65x46. Confused? Well 75x50 was the

approximate size of the timber before it was planed, dressed or gauged and is still referred

to in timber yards as 75x50, even though the finished size is 65x46, give or take a mil.

Hence the term used in this page 'ex 75x50'. For more timber terminology explanations click

here

About the timber.

All timbers used for the construction of the wendy house are readily available at most timber

merchants or building suppliers.

The floor base is constructed of 145x46 (ex 150x50) treated dressed (gauged, smooth

finish) with standard 90x32 pine decking.

All the framing stock is 65x46 (ex 75x50) mg H1 f2. That means the timber is gauged,

treated for inside use only, and No2 framing, with the exception of the ridge beam (90x46

mg H1 f2) and the posts (65x46 mg H3), the latter is treated for outside use.

The Plans.

The Floor and Frame Cutting List.

The Instructions.

Step one: The pieces

Cut all the timber as shown in the cutting list above.

Step two: The base and floor

On a level, flat piece of ground make a rectangle by nailing the two longer joists (a)

to two of the shorter joists (b). Nail another three intermediate joists (b) in place

evenly spaced (see above floor frame plan). Use 90 or 100mm galvanized nails.

Check that the floor base is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner.

When the diagonals are equal, then the base is square.

Cut the decking to length (20 lengths @ 2300mm) and Lay and fix to the base

beginning from one side. Use 75mm galvanized jolt head nails.

Step three: the wall frames

Lay out the bottom plates (d) flat on the floor to form a rectangle 2300x1200. Lay the

top plates (e) on top of the bottom plates and mark the stud positions on the edge of

both plates (see above plate and stud layout diagram).

Separate the plates (d & e) and lay the studs (f) in place. Cut and fix nogs (g)

between studs (f) as shown in 'the plans' diagram above.

Nail the wall frame together.

There will be four wall frames in all, the two end frames and the front and back

frame.

Stand the frames up in place and nail together, ensure the bottom plates are straight

and fix to the floor.

Check all corners are vertical (plumb) and fix temporary diagonal braces to the

insides of the wall frames.

Step four: the roof frame

Centralize the two ridge supports (i) on top of the two end frames and fix in an

upright position.

Balance the ridge beam (j) on top of the ridge supports (i) and fix in place with nails

skewed (angled) through the ends of the ridge beam into the supports.

Fix the 10 rafters (k) in place (5 each side) beginning with the end rafters and then

the intermediates.

Fix the lower rafter supports (m) in place at the lower end of the top rafters (k). (see

diagram below ).

Fix the lower rafters (l) in place on top of the lower rafter supports (m) and so that

the top of the lower rafters (l) are at a point running 335mm up from the bottoms of

the top rafters (k). (see diagram below)

Nail the beam (n) to the end of the lower rafters.

Fix three posts (o) plumb under the beam (n). One post in the middle and one at

each end.

Part 2: The cladding and fascia

The Instructions continued...

Step five: The roof nogging and purlins

From 65x46 timber, Measure, cut and fix two rows of nogs (p) between the lower

rafters (l), one row along the top and one row along the middle as shown in diagram

below.

Also using 65x46 timber, fix two rows of purlins (q) on top of the front upper rafters

(k). Position as shown in diagram below, with one row at the apex and one row just

above the lower rafters (l).

LEGEND: (see cutting list in previous page for timber sizes)

a: joists

b: joists

c: decking

d: bottom plates

e: top plates

f: studs

g: nogs

h: blocking

i: beam support

j: ridge beam

k: rafters

l: lower rafters

m: rafter support

n: lean-to beam

o: posts

p: nogs

q: purlins

s: ridge capping

CL1: rear & side wall cladding

CL2: lean-to roof cladding

CL3: front wall cladding

CL4: rear roof cladding

CL5: front roof cladding

CL6: gable wall cladding

Step six: The wall cladding

Cut six sheets of 2400 x 1200 x 7mm cd (smooth one side) treated plywood to the

lengths as shown in the patterns below.

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