Wood shop plans.pdf
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2189 KB
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Pobierz
PlansNOW Plan
Plans
NOW
E
NTERTAINMENT
C
ENTER
This contemporary project was built with pocket hole joinery —
a “new” technique that required some clever cover-ups.
t’s easy to see how practical this
project is. The top is a large, solid
wood panel that will hold a fairly good-
sized
TV
, and inside there’s plenty of
storage space for all of your home
entertainment components. Even the
back has been carefully designed to
provide room for organizing cables.
Plus, there are also smaller side
cabinets that can be built and set
next to the main
TV
cabinet, as
shown in the inset photo. Or to give
the components a little more protec-
tion, you can build a pair of inset,
glass-paneled doors (
page 8
).
But it’s what you
can’t
see that
I’m excited about. That’s because
this project was built almost exclu-
sively with pocket hole screws, refer
to the detail on the
next page
.
This has been my first experience
with pocket hole joinery, and I want-
ed to see what could be built with it.
But since this project is an “open”
design, I didn’t want to have any
pocket holes showing. This meant
coming up with a number of cre-
ative solutions for covering them up.
But the final result was worth it —
not a pocket hole in sight.
{
Build a set of matching side cabinets
that can be set right next to the main
TV
case or can “stand alone.” To see
this side cabinet in a different light,
turn to
page 9
.
Woodsmith.com
page 1
©
August Home Publishing Co.
S
ECTIONAL
I
Top panel is"
hardwood
#/4
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
42”W x 24”D x 28”H
!/8
"-thick spacers
create shadow
line between
top and case
Pocket
holes
NOTE:
Optional side cabinet
shown on
page 9
,
Optional doors for
main case on
page 8
CASE
TOP
!/4
" plywood
back
BACK
SUPPORT
SHELF
STANDARD
CENTER
DIVIDER
UPPER
FRONT
RAIL
Backs have slots
for cable access
and air circulation
END
PANEL
C
ASE
BOTTOM
SHELF &
EDGING
Adjustable shelf
has recess in back for
cable access
and air circulation
Vertical divider
creates two
identical case
openings
END
STILE
Shelf standards
support shelves
and cover
pocket holes
"x rabbet
cut in end panel
to create small
shadow line
Face frame
covers plywood
edges of case top
and bottom
NOTE:
Pocket hole joint
created with jig
and special
"stepped"drill
bit.
POCKET HOLE JOINERY DETAIL
Pocket hole
LOWER
FRONT
RAIL
To see how this
entertainment
center would
look in cherry or walnut, go to
www.woodsmith.com
.
FRONT
STILE
1" fine-threaded
pocket hole screw
!/4
MATERIALS & SUPPLIES
A
End Panels (2)
#/4
ply. - 20
!/2
x 21
!/8
L
Lower Back Rail (1)
#/4
x 6 - 38
!/2
" Pocket Hole Screws
•
(6) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
•
(16) Spoon-Style Shelf Supports
•
(9) #8 x 1
!/4
B
Upr. End Rails (2)
#/4
x 1
!/2
- 20
!/2
M
Shelf Standards (8)
#/8
x 2
!/2
- 21
&/8
C
Lwr. End Rails (2)
#/4
x 3 - 20
!/2
N
Back Supports (4)
#/8
x 1
!/2
- 19
!/8
D
End Stiles (4)
#/4
x 1 - 27
!/8
O
Back Panels (2)
!/4
ply. - 20
!/4
x 21
&/8
" Rh Woodscrews
•
(9) #8 Flat Washers
•
(2)
!/4
E
Case Top/Btm. (2)
#/4
ply. - 22
!/2
x 40
!/2
P
Shelves (4)
#/4
ply. - 19 x 19
F
Center Divider (1)
#/4
ply. - 19
!/4
x 21
&/8
Q
Shelf Edging (4)
#/4
x
!/4
-19
!/8
" Glass (15
&/8
" x 17
!!/16
")*
G
Divider Edging (1)
#/4
x
!/4
- 21
&/8
R
Top Spacers
!/8
x 1
!/2
- 180
rgh.
"-long Brads*
•
(2
pr.
) 2" x 1
!/2
H
Front/Back Stiles (4)
#/4
x 1
#/4
- 27
!/8
S
Top Panel (1)
#/4
x 24 - 42
" Nickel Hinges*
•
(2) 96mm Stainless-Steel Pulls*
•
(2) Magnetic Catches & Strikes*
* Required for the optional doors
(/16
I
Upper Front Rail (1)
#/4
x 1
!/2
- 38
!/2
T
Door Stiles (4)*
#/4
x 2 - 21
J
Lower Front Rail (1)
#/4
x 3 - 38
!/2
U
Door Rails (4)*
#/4
x 2 - 15
!%/16
K
Upper Back Rail (1)
#/4
x
#/4
- 38
!/2
V
Glass Stop*
!/4
x
!/4
- 140
rgh.
Woodsmith.com
page 2
©
August Home Publishing Co.
!/8!/16"
•
(1
pkg.
) #8 x 1
•
(1
pkg.
)
Pocket
holes
1
UPPER
END RAIL
1"
b.
END VIEW
(Backside)
B
END STILE
D
1"
1"
#/4
NOTE:
Panels
are " plywood.
Rails and stiles
are "-thick
hardwood
#/4
#/4
#/4"
21 "
!/8
B
D
D
27 "
END PANEL
A
20 "
!/2
END PANEL
A
22 "
!/2
Pocket
holes
3"
C
{
A small rabbet is
all it takes to add
an interesting
shadow line to
a frame and
panel assembly.
a.
END PANEL
A
NOTE:
Case assembled
with fine-thread,
1 " pocket hole
screws
LOWER
END RAIL
!/8"
!/4
C
3"
#/4"
1"
1"
!/16"
Outside
face
Case Construction
The parts of this entertainment cen-
ter are fairly typical for case con-
struction. At each end there are frame
and panel assemblies, and these are
connected with top and bottom pan-
els. Then to create the two openings,
a vertical center divider will be added.
What’s unique here is that almost
the entire case is built using a pock-
et hole jig and screws. The nice
thing is that all the pieces are butt
jointed together, so there aren’t any
dadoes, grooves, or other joints to
cut. On the other hand, I found that
this lack of traditional joiner y meant
that I needed a few “helpers” when
it was time to assemble the case.
But more on that later.
END PANELS
. As with many cases,
the first thing to work on are the end
assemblies (Fig. 1). But with pocket
screws the sequence is a bit differ-
ent. Instead of starting with the
frames, I cut the
3
/
4
" plywood
end
panels (A)
to size first.
When frame and panel pieces are
the same thickness (as they will be
here), it’s pretty tough to get them
flush all the way around the panel. I
sidestepped the problem by creat-
ing a shadow line that accents the
panel and hides the joint lines, as
shown in the margin photo at left.
This is easy to do — just cut a tiny
rabbet around each panel (Fig. 1a).
RAILS & STILES
. With the rabbets cut
on the panels, the rails and stiles can
be added to create the frame around
the panel (Fig. 1). I started with the
upper (B)
and
lower end rails (C)
since they’re cut to length to match
the width of this panel.
When attaching the rails to the
panels, the pocket holes could have
been drilled in either the panels or
the rails. As you can see in Fig. 1, I
drilled them in the rails. This meant
that the holes in the upper rails were
drilled partially into their edges, but
this method is better because these
holes will end up neatly hidden by
the top and bottom panels later on.
I should also note two things here
before going on. One is that while in
most situations the locations of the
pocket holes aren’t critical, I’ve
included them here because there
are so many screws used to build
this project (Fig. 1b). This way,
you’ll be sure to avoid drilling into a
neighboring pocket hole (or screw).
2
NOTE:
Stiles flush
with top edge only
NOTE:
Set stiles
next to assembly
when laying out
pocket holes
END
STILE
D
End panel
and rail
assembly
a.
Face clamp
Face
clamp
D
#8 x 1 "
self-tapping
pocket hole screw
!/4
Woodsmith.com
page 3
©
August Home Publishing Co.
!/2
!/8
!/2
!/2
The other thing to note has to do
with the use of glue. Technically, the
screws should provide plenty of
holding power. But to play it safe, it
would be a good idea to apply glue
too. However, you’ll want to use the
glue sparingly so you don’t have a
lot of excess to clean up.
To complete the frames, the two
end stiles (D)
are ready to be added
(Fig. 2). These pieces are sized to
extend below the lower rail to create
short legs. It sounds simple enough,
but with the stiles offset, they’re not
identical — the pieces are actually
mirrored images of each other. So
to drill the pocket holes in the right
place, it’s best to lay the stiles next
to the assembly and mark the edges
that you’ll be drilling into.
TOP & BOTTOM
. Now that the end
assemblies are complete, they can
be connected with the
case top
and
bottom (E)
, as shown Figs. 3 and 4.
These
3
/
4
" plywood panels are identi-
cal, and once they’ve been cut to
size, they’re ready to be screwed to
the end assemblies.
I started with the case top. After
drilling the pocket holes in each end
of the panel, it’s screwed flush with
the top edges of the end assemblies.
But holding this long panel square
to the ends while you’re driving in
the screws takes more than two
hands. So I made a couple L-shaped
braces to help hold the assembly
square while it was being screwed
3
Brace
a.
End
assembly
SECTION
VIEW
1"
!/2
End
assembly
Pocket
holes
drilled
in top
face
E
8"
TOP
CASE TOP
(22 " x 40 )
!/2
!/2
"
#8 x 1 "
pocket
hole screw
!/4
E
NOTE:
Case top
and bottom panels
ar
e
#/4
" plywood
4
Pocket holes
drilled in
bottom face
a.
E
CASE BOTTOM
(22 " x 40 ")
!/2
!/2
SECTION
VIEW
#8 x 1 "
pocket
hole screw
!/4
8"
1"
Top edge
of lower
rail
BOTTOM
E
NOTE:
Assembly
is upside down
Scrap cleat
supports bottom
and aligns
edge of bottom
with top of rail
Scrap
cleat
together, as shown in Fig. 3. (Here,
it’s okay to screw into the top face of
the panel — it’ll get covered with a
hardwood top panel later.)
When attaching the case bottom,
you’ll need to flip the assembly over,
as shown in Fig. 4. The idea here is
to position the upper face of this
panel even with the top edge of the
lower end rail, as indicated in Fig.
4a. There’s nothing tricky about
this. All you need to do is clamp a
scrap cleat across each end and let
the cleat support the panel while
you screw it in place.
DIVIDER
. To divide the case into
two equal openings, the next piece
to make is the
center divider (F)
.
When cutting this panel to size, note
that it won’t end up as deep (wide)
as the top and bottom panels. As
you can see in Fig. 5a, it is flush with
the front of the case and stops a few
inches short in back. (This space
will be used to create a little trough
or pocket for the cables.)
Before the plywood divider can
be screwed into the case, it needs a
piece of
edging (G)
to cover the
plies in the front. I made this thin
strip quickly and safely by ripping a
1
/
4
"-wide strip from an oversized
piece of
3
/
4
"-thick hardwood.
The center divider is the only
case piece that isn’t attached with
pocket hole screws. Instead, it’s sim-
ply screwed to the top and bottom
panels, flush with the front edges
(Fig. 5a). But this panel isn’t much
easier to hold in place than the top
and bottom panels were, so you may
want to clamp some cleats to the
case for support — similar to what
you did with the bottom panel.
5
#8 x 2"
Fh woodscrew
a.
L
8"
8"
TOP
SECTION
VIEW
1"
NOTE:
Scrap
spacers can be
used to position
center divider
DIVIDER
F
CENTER
DIVIDER
( " plywood)
F
21 "
&/ 8
21
"
#/4
EDGING
G
N
OTE
:
D
ivid
e
r
sto
p
s s
h
o
r
t of
b
a
c
k
of case
!/4"
19 "
!/4
Divider is
flush with
front of case
DIVIDER
EDGING
( "-thick hardwood)
G
!/4
Woodsmith.com
page 4
©
August Home Publishing Co.
!/2
!/4
!/4
!/2
&/ 8
K
UPPER
BACK
RAIL
H
38 "
a.
42"
1"
I
H
Front
face frame
(back view)
38 "
!/2
H
27 "
!/8
BACK
STILE
1
#/4"
I
J
UPPER
FRONT
RAIL
#/4"
L
L
27 "
LOWER
BACK
RAIL
3"
1"
!/2
H
b.
1
#/4"
#/4
"
NOTE:
Face frames joined with
pocket screws, as shown in
details 'a' and 'b'
K
H
J
LOWER
FRONT
RAIL
Back
face frame
(front view)
#/4
"
FRONT
STILE
H
NOTE:
Position
lower front rail flush
with case bottom panel
NOTE:
Face frames are
" hardwood
#/4
6
6"
L
Face Frames, Shelf Standards, & Backs
Now that the main case has been
assembled, it’s time to add a pair of
face frames, some shelf standards,
and a couple of back panels.
FACE FRAMES
. I started with the face
frames that cover the plywood edges
of the case at the front and back
(Fig. 6). Typically, I’d just add a face
frame to the front of a case. But the
back frame here will create a shal-
low trough or pocket for the cables.
These two face frames aren’t iden-
tical though. While the
stiles (H)
are the same, the
lower back rail
(L)
is wider than the
lower front
rail (J)
. And to allow the back pan-
els to fit through the opening later
on, the
upper back rail (K)
is nar-
rower than the
upper front rail (I)
.
Once the face frame pieces are
cut to size, they’re simply screwed
together. This is where pocket hole
joiner y really shines. These frames
are quick and easy to assemble. The
only thing to give extra attention to
is the position of the lower front rail.
You want it to end up flush with the
top face of the case bottom. So I set
each stile against the case and
marked the position of the bottom
panel. These marks can then be
used to position the lower front rail.
When the face frames are assem-
bled, they’re ready to be screwed to
the case (Fig. 7). Don’t worr y if the
frames and case don’t end up per-
fectly flush all the way around. You
can always do a little trimming later,
as shown in the box at left.
SHELF STANDARDS
. With the face
frames in place, you can make the
shelf standards (M)
next (Fig. 8).
These
3
/
8
"-thick pieces have a series
FLUSH FACE FRAMES
When gluing a face frame to a large
case, it’s nearly impossible to get the
edges completely flush. So I usually
plan to do a little “touch-up.” Most
times, I’ll use my block plane, setting
it to take ver y fine shavings, see draw-
ing. Or if there’s a only slight shoul-
der, I’ll sand it flush, using a sanding
block to prevent rounding the edges.
7
NOTE:
Glue
face frames to
case separately
Back
face
frame
a.
2
"
14 "
!/2
3"
9
"
SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
Face frames can
be trimmed or
planed flush if
necessary, see
box at left
Front
face
frame
Front
face
fr
a
me
1
!/4"
8
!/4"
Woodsmith.com
page 5
©
August Home Publishing Co.
!/2
!/2
!/8
!/2
Plik z chomika:
mgm16
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