desk caddy.pdf

WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2007-2008

DESK CADDY

This desk caddy gives you the specialized storage features of a traditional secretary desk yet can sit atop any regular desk or computer work surface.

Pigeonholes keep incoming mail organized while a variety of drawers hold stationery, pens and pencils and other supplies. The overall construction

of the case uses sliding dovetail joints because they’re strong, invisible and can be made with a router, as can the half-blind dovetails for the drawer

boxes. You’ll also get some practice with a scroll saw or jigsaw on the decorative top and with a lathe when you make the drawer pulls. And when

it’s all done, you’ll learn more about applying and using stains and finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2007-2008 DESK CADDY

TOOLS REQUIRED

SHOPPING LIST

Hand Tools

– Mallet

Power Tools

– Table saw with combination

rip/crosscut blade and dado blades

– Router and router table with straight-

cutting and dovetail bits

– Router fence, used for sliding

dovetails

– Drill with 1" dia. Forstner bit

– Scroll saw or jigsaw

– Orbital sander

Miscellaneous

– Pencil

– Tape measure

– Safety glasses

– Carpenter's glue

– 120-, 180- and 220-grit sandpaper

– Clean, lint-free cloths

– Respirator

– Gloves for finishing

– Mineral spirits (for oil-based stains

and finishes)

– Water-filled metal container with

tight-fitting lid (for oil-based stains

and finishes)

– Minwax ® Wood Finish ™ Stain

Brush or other good quality, natural

bristle brush (for oil-based stains

and finishes)

Recommended wood: Cherry

Alternate wood: Pine

3/4" x 11-1/2" cherry:

4 lin. ft.

1/2" x 11-1/2" cherry:

14 lin. ft.

3/4" x 9-1/2" cherry:

9 lin. ft.

1/2" x 7-1/2" clear pine:

8 lin. ft.

1/4" birch plywood:

One 20" x 30" piece

CUTTING LIST

Overall Dimensions:

36"w x 10-7/8"d x 20-3/4"h

Key Part

Pcs. Material

Dimensions

Sides

cherry

3/4" x 10-7/8" x 18-1/2"

Shelves

cherry

1/2" x 10-1/4" x 35-1/4"

Dividers

cherry

1/2" x 10-1/4" x 6-3/8"

Pigeonhole tops

cherry

1/2" x 9-1/2" x 10-5/8"

Pigeonhole end walls

cherry

1/2" x 9-1/2" x 5-1/2"

Pigeonhole dividers

cherry

3/8" x 9" x 5-1/4"

Back slats

cherry

5/8" x 8" x 35"

Drawer A front and back 2

cherry, pine

1/2" x 5-7/8" x 6-15/16"

Drawer A sides

pine

1/2" x 5-7/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer A bottom

birch plywood

1/4" x 6-1/4" x 9-1/2"

Drawer B front and back 2

cherry, pine

1/2" x 5-7/8" x 4-15/16"

Drawer B sides

pine

1/2" x 5-7/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer B bottom

birch plywood

1/4" x 4-5/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer C front and back 4

cherry, pine

1/2" x 1-5/8" x 7-15/16"

Drawer C sides

pine

1/2" x 1-5/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer C bottom

birch plywood

1/4" x 7-5/16" x 9-1/2"

Drawer D front and back 2

cherry, pine

1/2" x 2-3/8" x 7-15/16"

Drawer D sides

pine

1/2" x 2-3/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer D bottom

birch plywood

1/4" x 7-5/16" x 9-1/2"

Drawer E front and back 4

cherry, pine

1/2" x 2-7/8" x 12-7/16"

Drawer E sides

pine

1/2" x 2-7/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer E bottom

birch plywood

1/4" x 11-7/8" x 9-1/2"

Drawer guides

14 pine

1/4" x 3/4" x 9-3/8"

Drawer pulls

cherry

3/4" dia. x 1" l (turned

from 1 x 1 stock)

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS

Recommended Finish

Prep: Minwax ® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

Stain: Minwax ® Wood Finish™ Golden Pecan

Finish: Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane Semi-Gloss

Alternate Finish

Prep: Minwax ® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

Stain: Minwax ® Gel Stain Mahogany

Finish: Minwax ® Wipe-On Poly Satin or Gloss

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2007-2008 DESK CADDY

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make

the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have

any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always

discuss them with your shop instructor.

• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a

tool to the project lumber.

• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work

that creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate

respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or

other solvents.

• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put

away all portable tools.

8. To finish the drawer detailing, cut 1/4" x 1/4" dados in the drawer

fronts, back and sides to receive the drawer bottoms (J, M, P, S, V).

9. Lay out and cut the concave curve on the front edges of the

pigeonhole dividers (F).

10. Make the tongue-and-groove joints on the appropriate edges of

the back slats (G). Test-fit the slats in the back edges of the sides and

rip the bottom slat as needed to make the top slat finish 3-1/4" above

the sides.

11. Use the grid shown in Fig. 3 to lay out the scrollwork on the top-

most back slat (G). Cut the design with a scroll saw or jigsaw and sand

the edge to the finished shape.

CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY

PROCEDURE

1. Start by cutting only the case parts listed on the CUTTING LIST.

Refer to Fig. 1 for the general layout of the entire piece. Don't cut

the drawer parts until the entire piece is assembled, in case there

are subtle changes to the opening sizes.

12. In the bottom back slat, make a 1"-high, 23"- long cutout to serve

as a pass-through for electrical cords. Give the inside corners of the

cutout a 1" radius. Establish the radius with a 1" Forstner bit or cut it

with a scroll saw.

13. After finish-sanding all the parts with 180- and 220-grit sandpaper,

glue and assemble the shelves, dividers, sides and back, making sure

that the case is dead square. Do not glue the back slats to each other

or to the case; use only the specified screws. The back slats can be

used to square the case and hold it square while the glue dries. Use

a damp cloth or paper towel to wipe away any excess glue as soon as

it appears.

Woodworker's Tip: Before cutting parts that include half-blind

dovetails, make a test piece to determine how long your jig makes

the tails. Half-blind jigs do not all cut the tails to the same length,

This variable will affect all the drawer parts and the pigeonhole

end walls. It's safest to produce a sample half-blind joint first,

then take measurements from that to determine the size of the

rest of the pieces.

14. Measure the resulting drawer openings and cut the drawer parts

accordingly. See Fig. 6 to determine the locations of drawers A, B, C, D

and E.

2. Rabbet the back edges of the sides (A) to receive the back slats (G).

3. Lay out the sliding dovetail slots on the sides and cut them with a

router that's guided by a fence (Fig. 4).

15. Use the dovetail jig to cut the half-blind dovetails in the drawer

fronts, backs and sides (Fig. 2) (H, I, K, L, N, O, Q, R, T, U). Then set

up either the router or the router table to cut the 1/4" x 3/4" slots in

the drawer sides (I, L, O, R, U).

Woodworker’s Tip: After cutting the sliding dovetail sockets,

note the change in depth of cut between the sides and the shelves.

Then cut the tails on the ends of the shelves and slide them,

partially, into their sockets. This will allow a precise socket-to-

socket measurement to be taken for the dividers.

16. Assemble the drawers by gluing and joining the front, back and

one side, slipping in the bottom and then gluing and joining the

remaining side. A rubber or wooden mallet will help in tapping

together the dovetails.

4. With a table-mounted router fitted with a fence (Fig. 5), cut the

sliding dovetails on the ends of the shelves (B), the dividers (C),

the pigeonhole tops (D) and the pigeonhole end walls (E).

17. After waiting to let the glue set, test each drawer guide (W) in the

slot with which it will be paired. Whenever the fit is too tight, sand the

edge of the guide until it moves easily, but not at all loosely, through its

respective slot.

5. Lay out and cut the dovetail slots on the shelves (B) to receive the

dividers (C).

6. Lay out 1/8" x 3/8" blind dados in the top face of the top shelf (B)

and the bottom faces of the pigeonhole tops (D) to receive the pigeon-

hole dividers (F). Also cut 1/8" x 1/2" dados in the top face of the top

shelf to receive the pigeonhole end walls (E).

18. Drill mounting holes in the guides. The rear hole should be

horizontally elongated to allow for movement. The front hole should

be vertically elongated to allow for adjustment.

19. Determine the locations of the drawer guides on the sides (A) and

the dividers (C). Fasten the guides with #6 x 1/2" flat-head screws only,

no glue.

7. Set up the half-blind dovetail jig and use the hand router to cut the

dovetails in the ends of the pigeonhole tops (D) and the pigeonhole

end walls (E).

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2007-2008 DESK CADDY

20. Slide each drawer all the way into its respective opening. Adjust

the drawer guides as needed. If necessary, plane or sand a drawer

front, and possibly the sides, to produce a consistent gap between it

and the case.

24. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer

sandpaper using with-the-grain strokes. Dust off and wipe all surfaces

with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a second

coat of polyurethane and set the piece aside to cure overnight.

Woodworker’s Tip: For the best appearance, cut all the drawer

fronts from the same section of wood to get continuity in the grain.

25. The following day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper.

Dust off and wipe the piece with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral

spirits and apply the third and final coat of polyurethane.

STAINING AND FINISHING

Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short

your sanding, preparation and application time, don’t do it.

These tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality

finish. Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and

smoothness of the parts that will have great bearing on how

people judge your craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result,

follow the steps listed in this section and also the instructions

the finish manufacturer puts on its products.

Alternate Finish

26. Apply the Minwax ® Gel Stain you've chosen using a clean, lint-free

cloth or natural-bristle brush. Follow the directions on the can. Allow

the Gel Stain to set for about 3 minutes, then wipe off any excess with

a clean, lint-free cloth. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a

second coat after 8 to 10 hours, repeating the application directions

for the first coat. Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying

the finish.

FINISHING TIPS

• Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of

wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination

and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before

making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick

reference on future projects.

• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between

coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and

other climatic conditions.

• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that

stain or finish in the rim won't dry out and prevent the lid from

forming a tight seal.

• Brushes used for oil-based finishes must be cleaned with

mineral spirits.

Woodworker’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that

your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood.

This way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be

visually minimized by the wood grain.

27. Apply Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the directions

on the can. Use a good quality, natural-bristle brush. Allow the first coat

to dry overnight.

28. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit or finer

sandpaper using with-the-grain strokes. Dust off and wipe all surfaces

with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a second coat

of polyurethane and set the piece aside to cure overnight.

29. The following day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper.

Dust off and wipe the piece with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral

spirits and apply the third and final coat of polyurethane.

21. Finish-sand any remaining rough spots with 220-grit sandpaper.

Dust off the piece and wipe it carefully with a clean, lint-free cloth

lightly dampened with mineral spirits.

PRODUCT SAFETY

For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the

safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow

them to the letter.

Recommended Finish

22. Apply the Minwax ® Wood Finish ™ you've chosen using a natural-

bristle brush and a clean, lint-free cloth following the directions on the

can. The brush will help you get the stain into the inside corners. Allow

the Wood Finish™ to set for about 5 to 15 minutes, then wipe off any

excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after

4-6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat. Allow

the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective clear finish.

WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means

may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust

or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,

especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead

or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective

equipment, such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and

proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the

National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.) or

contact your local health authority.

Woodworker’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that

your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This

way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually

minimized by the wood grain.

23. Apply Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the directions

on the can. Use a good quality, natural-bristle brush. Allow the first coat

to dry overnight.

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains

and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire if

improperly discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other waste

soaked with this product, and sanding residue in a sealed, water-filled

metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.

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CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2007-2008 DESK CADDY

When using oil-based wood finishing products:

CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS.

Contents are COMBUSTIBLE . Keep away from heat and open flame.

VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid over-

exposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh

air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering,

headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protec-

tion (NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and

skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use.

Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large

amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin

contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory

difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison

Control Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.

DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE.

Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous

system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating

and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.

WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the

State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other

reproductive harm.

DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more health

information.

This project was adapted with permission from American

Woodworker ® magazine, AW Media LLC, an affiliate of New Track

Media LLC, Suite 180, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Eagan, MN

call toll-free: 1-800-666-3111.

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