gardenshed-buda dla psa.pdf

PLYWOOD

T he Georgia-Pacific dog house is designed to be built by

the moderately experienced carpenter. The dog house

is designed to provide a sturdy shelter for a medium sized

dog. A rear vent can be added to the back side of the dog

house for additional ventilation.

Dog House

The Georgia-Pacific Garden Shed is also designed to be

built by the moderately experienced carpenter. It features a

platform construction on 4x4 posts sunk in concrete-lined

holes similar to standard residential deck construction so it

can be set on any firm soil whether sloped or flat without

site preparation.

There are approximately 40 square feet of floor space inside

Garden Shed

the shed and ample headroom for storage of bicycles, a

lawnmower, garden tools or play equipment. The room is

large enough for a six foot potting bench or workbench; a

rear window provides natural light. The design includes a

hutch on the side big enough for several refuse or recycling

bins. Adding insulation, electricity, or running water would

expand the use of this room for many purposes.

When these projects are built using Georgia-Pacific’s

premium-grade materials, the sturdy shed and dog house

will be attractive additions to your home for many years.

PROJECT PLANS

Dog House

Flashing

Fascia

Roof

Siding

ASSEMBLY

1. Before cutting, draw layout on

plywood as shown, centering

front and rear siding

on grooves.

2. Nail base boards together, lap-

ping front and rear over sides.

Add a central joist at midspan

(shown as dashed line on Fig. 3 ).

3. Screw plywood floor on top

of base.

4. Screw sides to short side of

corner studs, lapping the siding

Fig. 2

Center of groove

Roof

Side

Front

Head

Jamb

Threshold

Sill

Base

45°

Roof

Side

Rear

Sign

Finis hed Floor

over the bottom of the studs. Leave

Z\x9

of the top of the

Exposed Base

Fig. 1

stud exposed.

5. Screw back and front siding to corner studs, lapping front and

rear over sides.

6. Add roof ridge brace by nailing through the front and back

siding flush in the angle of the peak.

7. Set the assembly over the base. Screw together.

8. Nail fascia through plywood to corner studs. Screw siding to

fascias from inside.

9. Screw roofs to fascias and ridge brace, lapping larger roof over

smaller at ridge.

10. Nail flashing over ridge.

11. Nail casing around door as shown.

12. Nail sill flush with floor.

13. Nail threshold to cover the crack at sill and floor.

14. Paint exterior ad lib.

MATERIALS AND CUT LIST

Buy: 2—Pressure treated 2 x 4 x 88

Cut: 2—Front and rear bases, each 30

long

1— Center floor joist at 339 long

2— Side bases, each 33

long

Cut: 1— Roof ridge brace 369 long

4— Corner studs at 24

Z\x9

tall, cut 45° miter

on one end of each

4—Fascias at 28

long, cut 45° miter on one end of each

Buy: 1—ZB\cx9 x 48 x 48 Georgia-Pacific B-C grade plywood

Cut: 1—Floor, 30

x 36

Buy: 2—

Z>\cx9

x 4

x 8

G-P T1-11 plywood siding with 4

center grooves

Cut: 2— Side siding at 22

wide

2— Front and rear siding at 389 high x 31Z\v9 wide

1— Roof at 28

Z\x9

high x 36

Top View

1—Roof at 29Z\x9 x 429

1— Sign at 3

M\,9

x 42

B\,9

x 10

(cut in grooves)

Base, below

Midspan Joist

Roof Ridge

Brace Above

Buy: 1—1 x 2 x 88

Cut: 2—Door jamb casing at 15

2—Door head casing at 10, cut miters at 22Z\x° and 45°

1—Door sill casing at 11

, cut miter at 22

Z\x

Fascia Above

Roof Above

1—Threshold at 119

Buy:

Metal flashing pre-bent at 90 o angle.

Corner Stud

Door Jamb

Threshold

Cut:

42( length

Buy:

Galvanized finish nails, galvanized deck screws,

wood glue, primer, and acrylic latex paint or exterior

opaque stain.

Fig. 3

Buy: 3—2 x 4 x 8

Garden Shed

MATERIALS LIST

Plywood and Lumber

Posts:

5— 4 x 4 pressure treated

or cedar posts @ 12 ft.

Floor and rim joists:

8— 2 x 8 @ 8

Nails:

25 lbs.—16 penny hot

dipped galvanized

(HDG) sinkers

10 lbs.—1 1 / 4

(

HDG

Ramp

G-P pressure-treated

lumber joists:

1—2 x 6 pressure-treated @ 12*

(length will vary to accommodate

each site)

Decking: 3 — 5 / 4 x6

pressure-treated @ 12*

Optional footholds:

number varies with length of

ramp, spaced every 12

roofing nails

10 lbs.—8 penny HDG

finish nails for trim

10 lbs.—8 penny HDG

spiral siding nails

5 lbs.—joist hanger nails HDG

Trim

G-P PrimeTrim ®

engineered wood trim in the

following dimensions:

Overdoor, cornerboards and

sub-fascia:

8— 1 x 6 @ 16

Flooring:

3 — 23 / 32 ( thick

G-P Plus TM Sturd-I-Floor ®

or B-C Plywood

4* x8*

Stud walls, sole plates,

double cap plates:

8— 2 x 4 @ 14*

sidewall studs

18 — 2 x 4 @ 10* front

and rear wall studs

13 — 2 x 4 @ 16* plates,

headers, jacks, etc.

Door rails and stiles:

3— 2 x 4 @ 8

(

1 x 2

long each

Windows

Rear window:

prefabricated 24( x24( wood

octagonal venting window with

clear glass

Optional: insect screen

Optional window on door: plexi-

glas or glass custom cut to fit

Roof

Felt: 1 roll GP-15 lb. residential

roofing felt

Shingles: 4 bundles G-P

Summit ® Series

Ridge cap:

1 bundle —G-P hip and ridge

shingles to match desired

Summit ® shingle color

Roll ridge vent:

8 linear feet

Optional Furnishings

Shelves: 2 —1 x 10 pine shelves

@ 16*

Cabinets:

2— prefabricated 6

(

Door and window casing and

trim, hutch corner boards,

baseboards:

7— 1 x 4 @ 16

Skirt on shed:

2— 5 / 4 x10 @ 16*

Fascia on shed and band:

6— 5 / 4 x8 @ 16*

Fascia on recycling hutch:

1— 5 / 4 x6@ 16

Rafters:

6— 2 x 6 @ 14

Ridge Beam:

1— 2 x 8 @ 8*

Roof Deck:

5 — 15 / 32 ( @ 4* x8*

Georgia-Pacific plywood

rated sheathing

Interior wall sheathing:

11— 11 / 32

Skirts and band on hutch:

2— 5 / 4 x4 @ 16

( @ 4* x8*

G-P Ply-Bead ® plywood

beaded board panels

Perforated hardboard

@ 4* x8*

Ceiling:

4 — 11 / 32

Siding

Z>\cx9 x 48 x 88 G-P T1-11

plywood siding with 49 on

center grooves

Front and rear facades:

4— 4* x8* panels

Side facades and door:

7— 4

G-P Ply-Bead ®

plywood beaded board panels

Concrete and Gravel

12 — 80 lb. bags of concrete

mix=2 bags per hole

Gravel: enough to cover ground

under shed. (optional)

Hardware

Door hinges:

3 pairs —strap style, black

Door latches:

2—with hasp and lock, black

Joist hangers:

16 —to fit 2 x 8 joists

14 —to fit 2 x 4 joists

(

@ 4

panels

Moulding and Flashing

Cove moulding under fascia

edge: 96 linear feet — 3 / 4 (

or 1( cove profile

Optional trim on window in door:

1— casing @ 8*

Drip edge on the top of

fascia @ eave and rake:

5— drip edge @ 10

running feet, 36

(

high

G-P MDF,

cut to fit approx. 6

deep — 3 / 4

(

2 x 2 flashing @ overdoor

and window; 10 linear feet

3 x 3 flashing @ hutch roof

and shed sidewall:

10 linear feet

Z flashing: 36 linear feet —

aluminum flashing

Trellis

Framing: 4 —2 x 2 @ 12*

Vinyl coated electrical wire hooks

and screw eyes for mounting

Paint and Caulk

Approximately 2 gallons of exte-

rior acrylic latex primer and wall

paint, non-hardening caulk

@ 14

Countertop:

(

1. SITING THE SHED

Choose a convenient location, (not necessarily on

flat ground). When finished, the bottoms of the floor

joists should be at least 6 inches above the ground,

high enough that water puddling on the ground can-

not reach them. The ramp should be long enough to

slope down at a 45 degree angle or less.

7. DOOR AND WINDOW

Cut the door out of siding and apply 2 x 4’s flat for

stiffening and add a diagonal brace from top hinge

down to the lower corner on the swinging side.

Optional: Add a small window made of plexiglass,

window glass or insect screen trimmed with small-

dimensioned window stop and use small strips of

lattice for decorative muntins. Hang the door in

the cased opening using decorative strap hinges

mounted on pads so they lay flat with the door

trim. Leave the sole plate under the door as a

door stop. Install window in rear wall.

2. FOOTING AND POSTS

Lay out the holes to make certain they are square.

Dig the holes for the footings; the depth should be

below your local frost line. Make the holes larger

than the posts to allow for adjustment (approx-

imately 12 ( wide). Set four full-length 4 x 4 corner

posts in the holes, temporarily bracing them in both

directions so they stay plumb. DO NOT pour the

concrete. The posts for the hutch should be set after

the shed is framed.

8. TRIM

Apply the sub-fascia & fascia on top of the siding.

Apply cove moulding to trim the bottom and top

edges. Add a drip edge at the top of the fascias

under the roof deck. Next cut the cornerboards to

fit between the skirts and fascias. Add the corner-

boards to the front and rear facades, then butt the

side cornerboards to them so the caulk joint does

not show from the main facades. Add the door and

window casing and the overdoor and overwindow

trim. Add the drip edge to the side and top edges

of the overdoor and overwindow trim.

9. RAMP

Make the ramp from 2 x 6 pressure treated

joists with 5/4x6 decking nailed on top. Make it

long enough that it slopes down at less than a 45

degree angle. Optional: If your ramp is long or

steep apply footholds at 12 ( intervals or at what-

ever distance is comfortable for your stride and the

angle you have chosen; be sure you can get your

lawnmower or other equipment easily around the

footholds. If you are using the shed for bicycles or

a wheelbarrow, two sets of footholds with a space

in between for the wheel would be convenient.

3. FRAMING

Hang the rim joists on the posts with joist hangers

so the outside faces are flush. Hang the floor joists

from the side rim joists using joist hangers at 16

(

center or less. Deck the floor with 23 / 32

( plywood.

center. Frame the door and window openings leaving

the sole plate under the door. Add a nailing

surface if you will be adding interior sheathing.

Nail the walls in place between the 4 x 4 posts

using 16 d sinkers.

(

Check the posts to be sure they are plumb and level,

and then fill each posthole with 2 bags of concrete,

leaving the top surface sloped to drain water away

from the posts. When the concrete has set

thoroughly, cut the four posts off flush with the side

wall plate. Add a second top plate on top of the side

walls extending over the post tops. Add a second

top plate on top of the front and rear walls lapping

the opposite way over the peaks.

4. RIDGE AND RAFTERS

Toenail the ridge beam in place between the front

and rear walls. Cut the rafter birdsmouths so the

level (seat) cuts are 3 1 / 2 ( long where they sit on the

top plate. The plumb cuts are perpendicular to the

seat cuts. Let the rafter tails run wild (long) to be

trimmed later. Lay out the rafter spacing on the ridge

using five rafters evenly spaced on each side.

10. INTERIOR

Finish the interior to suit your planned use of the

shed. Insulation and Ply-Bead would make it cozy

and finished. G-P perforated hardboard would

make it functional for tool storage. Shelves and

cabinets would be useful for a potting shed if there

is water available nearby. A serious gardener may

want a large sink. A workbench and power source

would make a functional workshop.

11. TRELLIS

Lay out the 2 x 2 lattice work as shown in the

elevation drawing. Where two boards overlap

mark the overlaps on both boards with a pencil

line. Cut and chisel out half the depth of the wood

between the pencil lines to make half-lap joints

and reassemble the layout with the boards lapped

together. Use vinyl-coated electrical wire to form

support for your plants by weaving it between the

boards. When you are satisfied with the pattern,

screw joints together. Hang the trellis from screw

eyes with hooks to make it easy to demount for

fall cleanup and to repaint the wall behind it

without uprooting your plantings.

12. PAINT

Caulk joints carefully except where the siding

meets the soffit. Paint or opaque stain the shed

to suit your style preference.

5. SIDING

Wrap the entire structure with tar paper or building

wrap. Nail band to rim joists, and skirt above band to

stud walls. Before cutting the siding, lay out the

cutting lines on the plywood following the enclosed

patterns so that the grooves do not fall on a

cornerboard and so the center of the facade is

centered between two grooves. Slip the flashing

for the shed roof and overdoor trim under the siding

before nailing it to the studs, and Z-flashing under

the bottom of the siding and over the skirts.

6. ROOF

To calculate the rafter tail length mock-up the fascias

on the front facade following the dotted lines in the

detail drawing provided. Cut the rafter tails so that

the fascias will neatly wrap around the building

corners. The grooves in the siding meet the

sub-fascia allowing the roof to vent. Sheath the roof

with 15 / 32

( plywood. Apply the roof felt and shingles

following manufacturer’s instructions. Cover the

ridge with ridge vent.

13. RECYCLING HUTCH

The hutch is built using the same construction

techniques and sequence as the shed except that

a ledger board attaches it to the shed much as a

deck is attached to a house. Cut the remaining 8

4 x 4 posts in half to make the two corner posts.

Add flashing where the roof meets the shed siding.

Frame the stud walls horizontally on flat ground

using standard construction techniques including

a sole plate, a single top plate, and studs at 16

EAVE DETAIL

FRONT VIEW

Ridge Cap

15 / 32 ( APA Rated

Sheathing Roof

Deck

2x6 Roof Rafter

Small Soffit

Vent

Drip Edge

Fascia

Cove Moulding

Shingles

15# Felt

Cornerboard

Flashing

Overdoor Trim

Optional Window

Seat Cut

Plumb Cut

Hinge on Pad

Drip Edge

1x6 Subfascia

Fascia

-0

(

Door

Cove Moulding

Line of Subfascia

On Front Facade

Line of Fascia

On Front Facade

(

Overall

-0

7*-6( Overall

Cove Moulding

Cornerboard, Beyond

Siding

Interior Sheathing

2x4 Stud Wall

SIDE 1

4*-0(

6*-3 3 / 4

( Overall

-0

(

Overall

SECTION

SIDE 2

Hook & Eye

Trellis Frame

Wire

Skirt

Band

7*-3( F.O.S

-0

(

F.O.S

(

9*-3( F.O.S

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