slatshlf.pdf

Woodsmith

MAGAZINE

Here’s a great place to hang your hat and coat or use as a clothes rack

in the kids’ room. And it breaks down easily for moving or storage.

F our main parts make up this pro-

line up the ends of all five slats and draw

lines across them with a square. Draw a

line 1 3 / 4 " from each end (this will position

the brackets 32" on center), and at the

exact center of the length; see Fig. 3.

C ROSSLINES . Next, draw crosslines

centered on the width of each slat. The

easiest way to locate the center is with a

combination square; see Fig. 1.

Set the square for just a smidgen less

than half the width of a slat ( 7 / 8 "), mea-

sure in from each edge, and put marks.

Splitting the difference between the

marks will locate the exact center. Then

punch the centers with an awl.

D RILL H OLES . The screws at each of

the points are sunk below the surface of

the slat and covered with wood plugs; see

Fig. 3. To drill the plug and screw holes,

first counterbore a 1 / 2 "-dia. hole at each

intersecting point. Then a 3 / 16 " hole is

drilled the rest of the way through the

slat to accept the shank of a screw.

C LEATS . With the slats complete,

work can begin on the cleats (B). Since

the cleats are all the same length and

one end is rounded over on all of them, I

found it easiest to lay out all three cleats

on a single 5" wide board; see Fig. 2. Cut

the board to a finished length of 9 1 / 4 ",

and then round over one edge on one

end with a 1 / 4 " roundover bit.

M ARK P ILOT H OLES . Before cutting

the cleats apart, mark the location of the

pilot hole lines for the screws; see Fig. 2.

First draw a line 3 / 8 " back from the front

edge. Then draw four more lines 2" apart.

Now, the three cleats can be ripped

1 1 / 2 " wide. To locate the pilot holes, draw

crosslines centered on the width of each

cleat using the same method that was

used with the slats. Finally, center punch

and drill a 3 / 32 " hole at each point.

A SSEMBLY . With the holes drilled in

both the slats and cleats, assembly can

begin. Start by screwing and gluing the

SHELF ASSEMBLY

The shelf is made up of five slats (A) held

together by three cleats (B); see page 2.

S LATS . To make the slats (A), first rip

five pieces of 3 / 4 "-thick stock to a com-

mon width of 1 3 / 4 ". Since I wanted to be

able to hang the shelf on wall studs that

were located 16" on center, I did a little

figuring and cut the slats to 38" long.

After cutting the slats to length, round

over the top edges of each slat with a 1 / 4 "

roundover bit; refer to Fig. 3 on page 3.

M ARK P OSITION OF H OLES . Once the

edges are routed, three screwholes are

drilled in each slat to attach the cleats. To

mark the location of these screwholes,

Plans N O W

page 1

from

S LATTED S HELF

ject: a shelf assembly, two end

brackets with curves, and a back

with “Shaker-style” birch pegs. To match

the pegs, I built the project from birch.

SLAT

EXPLODED VIEW

WOOD PLUG

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

38W x 9 3 / 4 D x 10 3 / 4 H

CLEAT

DOWEL

!/2

#/4

MATERIALS LIST

WOOD

A Slats (5)

BRACKET

3 / 4 x 1 3 / 4 - 38

B Cleats (3)

3 / 4 x 1 1 / 2 - 9 1 / 4

BACK

C Brackets (2)

3 / 4 x 8 7 / 8 - 10

D Back (1)

3 / 4 x 5 - 32 3 / 4

SHAKER PEG

HARDWARE SUPPLIES

(15) 1 / 2 "-dia. Wood plugs

(15) No. 8 x 1" Fh woodscrews

(4) No. 8 x 1 1 / 4 " Fh woodscrews

(1) 3 / 8 "-dia. x 4"-long Dowel rod

(4) 7 / 8 "-dia. x 3 3 / 8 "-long Birch Shaker pegs

(2) 9 / 16 " x 1 11 / 16 " Keyhole hangers w/screws

&/8

!/2

#/4

BRACKET PATTERN

2 R

!/2"

BRACKET

CUTTING DIAGRAM

5!/2

#/4

x 5 - 48 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

#/4

x 5 - 48 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

3#/8

#/4

x 5 - 48 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

B R ACKET

1 R

!/2"

NOTE:

BE SURE CORNERS

ARE SQUARE

#/4

x 5 - 48 (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

&/8

NOTE GRAIN DIRECTION

2 R

!/2"

two outside cleats to the first and last

slats; see Fig. 3. Make sure this partial

assembly is square. Then screw and glue

the remaining slats and cleats together.

The final step on the shelf assembly is

to glue plugs into the counterbores. Then

chisel or cut them off and sand flush.

cardboard template; see the Bracket

Pattern above. Then use the template to

trace the brackets on the blank. Now cut,

file, and sand them smooth.

M ORTISE FOR K EYHOLE H ANGER .

The shelves are held on the wall with two

nifty little metal keyhole hangers.

(They’re available from many wood-

working mail order catalogs.) To hold a

hanger in each bracket, a 3 / 16 "-deep, 9 / 16 "-

wide mortise is routed on the back edge;

see Fig. 4. Rout the mor tise by making

two passes with a 1 / 2 " straight bit on a

router table or with a hand-held router

and edge guide.

After the mortise is routed, a section

of the slot needs to be drilled out to

accept the head of the screw that will be

in the wall; see Fig. 5.

Finally, drill holes and screw the key-

hole hanger into the mortise; see Fig. 6.

S TOPPED R ABBET . Next, a stopped

rabbet is routed on the inside back edge

of each bracket to accept the back (D);

see Fig. 7.

Since the stopped rabbet is to be 3 / 8 "

wide and 5 / 8 " deep, a 3 / 8 " rabbeting bit can

be used to cut it; see Fig. 7. Start and stop

the cut just a bit short of the end lines and

clean it up with a sharp chisel.

BRACKETS

The completed shelf assembly rests on

two brackets (C). Both brackets are cut

out of a single 9" x 15" blank made from

glued-up stock; see drawing above.

After the blank is squared up, lay out a

LAY OUT HOLE

CENTERS BEFORE

RIPPING

NOTE: RIP THREE CLEATS

FROM

EDGING DETAIL

#/4"

STOCK

#/4

PUNCH

CENTERS

WITH AWL

#/8

!/4"

ROUNDOVER

BIT

1#/4

TOP VIEW

!/4

!/2

SLAT

CLEAT

USE

COMBINATION SQUARE

TO MARK CROSSLINES

ROUND OVER

EDGE BEFORE

RIPPING, SEE DETAIL

#/4

9!/4

Plans N O W

page 2

M OUNTING THE B RACKETS . After the

rabbets are routed, the brackets are

mounted under the shelf assembly. I

decided not to fasten the brackets perma-

nently since I wanted to be able to take

the unit apart for moving or storage.

Rather, I used two short pins (dowels) in

the top of each bracket to locate and sta-

bilize the assembly; see Fig. 8.

To mount the pins, drill two holes in

the bottom of the second and fourth slats.

The holes are centered on the widths of

these slats and located 3 / 8 " from the

inside edge of the two cleats; see Fig. 8.

U SING D OWEL C ENTERS . After dril-

ling the holes in the slats, use 3 / 8 " dowel

centers to mark the location of the

matching holes on the top edge of the

brackets. Then drill these holes.

Finally, glue two short dowels into the

top of each bracket to act as locating pins.

Then round over the end of each dowel

with sandpaper to help them slide into

the matching holes.

#/4

!/2"

HOLE, DEEP

!/4"

SAND WOOD PLUGS FLUSH

#/4

#/16"

SHANK

HOLE

CLEAT

FRONT

ED G E

#/32"

x DEEP

PILOT HOLE

#/8"

!/2

NOTE:

!/4

#8 x 1" Fh

WOODSCREW

"ROUNDOVER

ON TOP EDGES

OF ALL SLATS

#/4

CLEAT

#/4

SLATS

HOLES FOR MIDDLE CLEAT

CENTERED ON LENGTH

1#/4

GLUE AND SCREW

OUTSIDE SLATS TO END CLEATS,

CHECK FOR SQUARE

1#/4

(/16

CENTER

MORTISE

ON STOCK

CLEAN OUT

WASTE

BETWEEN

HOLES

BACK

EDGE

ATTACH

KEYHOLE

HANGER

WITH #8 x

WOODSCREWS

(/16

DEEP

TOP EDGE

#/16"

DRILL TWO

HOLES, DEEP

SIDE-BY-SIDE

#/8"

#/4"

BACK

The final piece to cut is the back (D). It’s

ripped to a width of 5" (to match the

stopped rabbet on the bracket).

To determine the length of the back,

turn the shelf assembly upside down and

hold the brackets straight up against the

cleats. Then measure the distance

between the brackets and add the depth

of both rabbets (in my case, 32 3 / 4 ").

After the back is cut to final length,

rabbet the ends to produce 3 / 8 "-thick

tongues that fit in the stopped rabbets in

the brackets; see Fig. 9. Then round over

the front edges with a 1 / 4 " roundover bit.

S HAKER P EGS . Now locate and drill

1 / 2 " holes, 3 / 8 " deep as shown in the

Exploded View on page 2. And then glue

in the Shaker Pegs.

!/4"

#/8"

RABBET BIT

WITH PILOT

BRACKET

STOPPED RABBET

#/8"

%/8"

FIRST PASS ABOUT

HALF TOTAL DEPTH

SQUARE UP

CORNERS

WITH CHISEL

%/8

STOP RABBET

SHORT OF FINISHED LENGTH,

FINISH WITH CHISEL

!/2

A TTACHING THE B ACK . Finally, the

back is placed in the stopped rabbets in

the brackets and holes are drilled for

flathead woodscrews; see Fig. 10.

F INISH . To finish the shelf, I sanded

all the surfaces smooth and then applied

two coats of General Finishes Royal

Finish (a tung oil/urethane mixture).

SECOND: DRILL OPPOSING

HOLES, DEEP

IN BRACKET

!/2"

%/8

#8 x 1 Fh

WOODSCREW

!/4"

FIRST: RABBET ENDS

TO PRODUCE

#/8"

&/8"

DOWEL PIN,

LONG

#/8"

THICK

COUNTERSINK

SCREWS

TONGUES

KEEP

BACK

EDGES

FLUSH

#/8

SECOND: ROUT A

ROUNDOVER ON BOTH

FACE EDGES

!/4"

DRILL PILOT HOLES

IN BRACKETS

FOR SCREWS

&/8

#/4

#/8

FIRST: LOCATE

AND DRILL HOLES,

DEEP IN SLATS

!/2"

#/8"

BACK SIDE DOWN

Plans N O W

page 3

#/8"

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