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From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 1 of 6
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
Plans
NOW
www.plansnow.com
®
M
ANTEL
C
LOCK
Classic design. Easy to build. And it’s sized small enough to fit just about anywhere.
grabs your attention right away is
the wood. It’s curly maple. This fig-
ured wood is so dramatic that you
might be inclined to think “the wood
makes the clock.” But while I appre-
ciate the beauty of the curly maple,
there are a couple other reasons why
I like this clock as much as I do.
DESIGN
. First of all, there’s the
design. This mantel clock has a tra-
ditional look to it. Its clean lines and
simple molding would look great no
matter what wood you used.
CONSTRUCTION
. The other reason I
like this clock isn’t easy to see. In fact,
you might miss it altogether, if you
weren’t looking for it. In spite of its ele-
gance, there’s nothing ver y diffi-
cult about building this clock.
Ever ything is held together
with simple joiner y, and it
houses a quartz move-
ment, which is readily avail-
able and easy to install.
CLOCK BODY
The body of this clock is quite simple.
It starts out as an H-shaped frame
that’s sandwiched between a layer of
molding and a top and bottom.
SIDES
. I began work on the body by
cutting the two
sides (A)
to size from
1
/
2
"-thick stock, see drawing below.
With the sides cut, next I cut a
3
/
8
"-
wide groove
1
/
4
" deep in each side.
Then I glued two
1
/
2
" x
3
/
8
"
stops (B)
in each groove, see drawing and detail
‘a’ below. The lower stop is for a
drawer. The upper stop will position
both the clock face and a face frame.
Note that there’s a
1
/
2
"-wide gap
between the upper and lower stops,
see detail ‘b’. This is for a divider that’s
added later, refer to drawing on page
2. (One easy way to create this gap is
to use a
1
/
2
"-thick scrap piece as a tem-
porar y spacer between the stops.)
To complete the sides, the last step
is to glue a
drawer guide (C)
behind
each lower stop, see detail ‘b’ on page 1.
STOP
a.
END VIEW
B
#/8"
!/2"
!/4"
SIDE
A
!/2"
A
SIDE
B
STOP
#/8"
7
!/2"
!/4"
b.
!/4"
9
#/4"
SIDE
A
NOTE:
Side and
stop pieces
made from
-thick stock
1
#/4"
B
DRAWER
GUIDE
STOP
C
!/2"
2
!/4"
C
NOTE:
Size drawer guide
to allow - wide
gap for back
DRAWER
GUIDE
!/4"
3
!/4"
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 2 of 6
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
T
here’s no doubt about it — what
4"
10"
a.
F
These guides fit flush with the out-
side face of the lower stop and should
stop
1
/
4
" short of the back edges of
the sides to allow for a plywood back.
DIVIDERS
. Next, to create the H-
shaped frame, I connected the two
sides with a
divider (D)
, see drawing
at right. This piece is sized so it’s flush
with the sides in front and the drawer
guides in back, see detail ‘a’ at right.
The trick to gluing the divider and
sides is to keep the assembly square.
So I used a spacer that matched the
length of the divider, see Fig. 1.
TOP & BOTTOM
. With these pieces
assembled, I added a layer of molding
to each end, see drawing above. And
then added the top and bottom pieces.
First, I cut two
cove molding (E)
pieces to size from
3
/
4
"-thick stock,
see drawing. These pieces are cut to
create a
1
/
8
" lip at the sides and front.
(Mine were 3
7
/
8
" x 9
3
/
4
".)
To shape the molding, I routed the
ends and front with a
1
/
2
" cove bit, see
Fig. 2. Then I screwed them to the
sides flush with the back, see Fig. 3.
Now with the cove molding in
place, I added
1
/
2
"-thick
top
and
!/2"
E
TOP
9
#/4"
3
&/8"
F
#/4"
CROSS
SEC
T
ION
E
COVE
MOLDING
( - thick)
NOTE:
Divider is flush
with front of sides
and back of
drawer guides
DIVIDER
( -thick)
D
7
!/2"
!/4"
DIVIDER
SIDE
D
A
3"
COVE
MOLDING
C
E
DRAWER
GUIDE
BOTTOM
F
E
COVE
MOLDING
F
BOTTOM
bottom (F)
pieces, see drawing.
These overhang the cove molding
1
/
8
"
on the front and sides, see Fig. 4a.
But there is no profile routed on their
edges. And since I didn’t want screws
showing, they’re simply glued in
place.
1
2
NOTE:
Rout ends first
using backing board
a.
DIVIDER
NOTE:
Rout
front and side
edges only
D
Backing
board
E
Use
spacer
to keep
assembly square
!/2"
cove bit
!/2"
cove bit
E
COVE MOLDING
3
4
4"
TOP
10"
F
COVE
MOLDING
E
a.
a.
Use
brads
to align
top and
bottom
E
CROSS
SECTION
!/8"
F
E
#/4"
#6 x 1 Fh
woodscrew
!/4"
&/8"
!/8"
shoulder
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 3 of 6
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
#/4"
!/2"
Frame
Now that the basic body of the clock
is complete, I turned my attention to
the frame that holds the glass, see
drawing at right. This is a simple
mitered frame that fits the opening
above the divider and stands a little
proud of the sides (
1
/
8
").
FRAME PIECES
. To begin, I ripped the
frame pieces (G)
to width (
7
/
8
") from
1
/
2
"-thick stock, see drawing at right.
But before mitering these pieces to
final length, there’s a little shaping
that needs to be done on the router.
First, I routed a
1
/
8
" roundover
along both outside edges of each
frame piece, see detail ‘a’ at right.
Next, to hold the
1
/
8
"-thick glass
and the
1
/
4
"-thick glass stops, I routed
a rabbet along the inside edge of each
piece, see detail ‘b’ at right. Note:
Because this rabbet is
3
/
8
"-deep, I’d
recommend routing it in two passes.
When the rabbet is routed, the
frame pieces can be mitered to size,
see drawing. Here, you want a snug
fit, so after mitering one end of each,
I cut each piece to length so it fit the
opening exactly.
ASSEMBLY
. Now the frame can be
glued together. But don’t glue it into
the body at this point. It will be easier
to make and fit the glass stops before
the frame is in place.
GLASS STOPS
. The
glass stops (H)
are simply
1
/
4
"-thick quarter round
strips, see drawing above. But making
NOTE:
Glass and
stops are added
after staining
is complete
GLASS STOP
(see box below)
H
!/8" !/8" !/8"
x 6 x6
glass
&/8"
7
!/2"
G
FRAME PIECES
( -thick)
!/2"
7
!/2"
NOTE:
Miter frame
pieces from
extra-long
- thick blanks
!/2"
!/2"
a.
b.
FRAME PIECE
Router
fence
!/2"
G
&/8"
!/4"
Router
f
e
nce
G
#/8"
round-
over bit
!/2"
straight bit
these strips can be dangerous.
Because they’re so small, they can
get hung up in the insert plate on the
table saw, and there’s potential for
kickback. So I started with oversize
blanks and used a zero clearance
insert in the table saw, see box below.
With the stops routed, they can be
mitered to fit the rabbet in the frame.
But I didn’t glue the frame or tack in
the stops quite yet. Instead, I waited
until after the clock had been stained.
QUARTER ROUND MOLDING
Blank for
glass stops
Rip
fence
NOTE:
Use
zero-clearance
insert plate
Router
fence
!/4"
!/4"
GLASS
STOP
H
#/4"
#/8"
round-
over bit
To hold a piece of glass in a frame, I often use small strips of quar-
ter round, see photo above. But routing and ripping thin strips
can be dangerous, so I use oversize blanks.
First, I cut a
3
/
4
"-thick blank roughly 2" wide. Then to create
the
1
/
4
" round profile, I rout two edges with a
1
/
4
" round-over bit,
see left drawing above. Now, cutting the quarter round strips from
the blank is a simple, two-step procedure. First,
3
/
8
"-deep kerfs
are cut
1
/
4
" from the rounded edges, see center drawing. (To be
safe, be sure to use a zero-clearance insert plate in your table saw.)
Next, the blank can be stood on edge, and the molding strips
can be cut away, see right drawing. Just make sure they fall to
the waste side of the blade.
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 4 of 6
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
!/8"
!/4"
Movement
support
BACK
Movement Support
At this point, the body of the clock is
almost complete. All that’s left is to
mount the movement and add a back.
MOVEMENT SUPPORT
. To mount the
movement, I took a slightly unusual
approach. The clock face and quartz
movement are attached to a move-
ment support that simply slides in the
opening in the back, see drawing.
This way, if you ever need to get at
the hands in front, all you have to do
is slide the movement support out
through the back of the clock body.
FRONT
. To make the movement sup-
port, I cut a
support front (I)
from
1
/
4
"-thick plywood, see Fig. 5. The size
of this piece depends on the opening
inside the clock. I cut my front to fit
the opening exactly (7
1
/
2
" x 7
1
/
2
"), and
then trimmed it slightly so it would
slide in without too much trouble.
The only thing that needs to be
done to this front piece is to drill a
5
/
16
"-dia. hole in the center. This is for
mounting the quartz movement, refer
to detail ‘a’ above right.
SIDES
. Next, I cut two
support
sides (J)
, see Fig. 5. These match
the height of the front. But more
importantly, their widths put them
flush with the back of the divider
when the support is slid inside the
clock. (Mine were 2" wide. But this
may var y depending on the thickness
of your clock face.)
K
Quartz
movement
Clock
hands
a.
Clock
face
Quartz
movement
Clock
hands
When the sides are glued to the
front, the movement support is com-
plete. But I waited to add the quartz
movement until after the clock had
been finished. At that point, adding
the movement is just a matter of
feeding its post through the front and
the clock face and securing them with
a nut, see detail ‘a’ above. Then the
hands can be attached to the post.
BACK
. The last piece that needs to be
added to the clock body is a
back
(K)
, see drawing below. This
1
/
4
"-thick
plywood piece is cut to fit the opening
in back. And to make it easy to
remove, I drilled a small finger hole.
Then to hold the back in place, I
used brass turn buttons that are
screwed to the back of the sides.
To complete the body of the clock,
all that’s left to add are four
3
/
4
"-dia. felt
pads, see drawing below. But again,
I waited to do this until after building
the drawer and finishing the clock.
5
NOTE:
Back
is cut from
- thick plywood
SUPPORT SIDE
( thick)
!/2"
!/4"
J
Brass
turn-
button
2"
7
!/2"
7
!/2"
7
!/2"
9
#/4"
BACK
#4 x
Fh woodscrew
!/2"
K
-dia.
hole
I
SUPPORT FRONT
( - thick plywood)
NOTE:
Movement,
turnbuttons, and felt
pads are added after
finishing is complete
7
!/2"
NOTE:
Center hole for
clock movement
-dia.
felt pad
From
Woodsmith
Magazine
All rights reser ved
page 5 of 6
©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
%/16"
!/4"
#/4"
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