Single Garage Plans.pdf

Single Garage Plans

3.1m (10' 2") x 6m (20ft) Shell only

Page 1: Introduction

A garage without a floor? Sure! This garage is designed with cost in mind. It is an

ideal project for the person with a limited budget, who does not want to pay the full

up-front costs of a completed garage, yet wants something practical and useable in

the meantime. This garage can be built and used prior to a concrete floor being laid.

Hard ground with a bit of metal thrown on top can be used indefinitely as a garage

floor until the time or money can be found to incorporate a concrete slab. Add an

iron roof cover and plywood cladding, and this makes for a very cost-effective

garage indeed!

Scope of design and limitations

Buildeazy asks that you please take note:

THESE PLANS ARE TO BE USED AS A HELPFUL GUIDE ONLY and no warranty

or guarantee is offered or entered into.

These plans by themselves, can not be used as documentation to apply for a

building consent/permit.

TO OBTAIN A BUILDING CONSENT OR PERMIT you will need someone to

prepare the necessary plans and documentation. In most cases, a designer,

architect, builder or draftsperson prepares the plans and sometimes for specific

design, an engineer is required. In some cases, for smaller projects, the plans and

specifications can be prepared by the applicant.

Authorities vary from place to place in their requirements for submissions to obtain a

building consent/permit, so check with your Local Authority, designer, architect,

builder or draftsperson for requirements in your area. Generally though,

submissions for a building consent/permit must usually include two or three sets of

full drawings (plans) and specifications. The submission plans must be drawn to

scale and include plans and detail for the following: Site; Foundation; Floor/s;

Elevation; Roof; Cross-section; Bracing and any other necessary plan or detail that

might be required.

This plan set has no allowance for any electrical work or components,

plumbing/gutter /down pipes, door/window installation, or any floor.

Page 2: Identifying the Members

[a] footing

[b] post/pile

[c] bottom plate / wall plate/sole

plate

[d] stud

[e] trimmer/under stud

[f] top plate

[g] dwang/nogging

[h] header/lintel

[i] ridge board

[j] rafter

[k] ceiling

joist

[l] cleat

[m] purlin

[o] ribbon

plate

[p] sprocket

[s] soffit

[t] strap bracing

[u] ribbon, wire or similar roof underlay

support

[v] roof underlay

[w] roofing iron

[x] wall cladding underlay

[y] wall cladding

[ba] barge board

[fa] fascia board

NOTE: see

Page 3: Flat plan

Wall frame plan and stud outlay

This plan shows the placement of the studs from a bird's-eye-view. In this particular plan, the

studs are spaced at 600 [2ft] crs or o.c. (which means "at centers" or "on center"). This means

the studs are spaced apart 600 (2ft) from the center of one stud to the center of the adjoining

stud.

Studs spaced at 600 [2ft] crs/o.c. are also placed appropriately to accommodate standard

width 1200 [4ft] cladding or lining, either exterior and interior.

Footing and post (pile) plan

This plan shows the placement of the posts and where the footing holes should be dug, from

a bird's-eye-view. The holes should be 300 [1ft] square and 450 [18"] deep.

There should be a thickness of concrete at least 100 [4"] between the underside of the post

and the bottom of the hole. The holes should be spaced at max 1200 [4ft] crs/o.c. (at

centers/on center).

NOTE: The posts should be a minimum of 150 [6"] above ground level, with a layer of durable

vapor barrier between the top of the post and the bottom plate of the wall frame (sole

plate/bottom plate/wall plate).

Page 4: The wall frames

Page 5: The roof

Space the rafters at 900 [3ft] crs/o.c. beginning from the two ends of the garage frame (front

and back) and work inwards towards the center.

The spacing between the middle rafters will be less.

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