Carport - Free Standing, Flat Roof.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - nisaczek

Free-Standing Carport

PLANS AND INSTRUCTIONS

• This is the Metric version

Free-standing flat roof carport.

This single carport is 6000mm long by 3000mm wide. It is the most basic of

carports. Because each site is different, and individual preferences vary, we have

given options for both post installation and bracing. Check with your Local Authority

to see if any permit or consent is required. A building consent for a carport is

required in New Zealand.

Identifying the members

(a) Posts 100x100

(b) Beams 200x50

(d) Rafters / Purlins 150x50

(e) Noggings 150x50

(f) Galvanised bolts

(g) Joist Hangers

(h) Galvanised Angle Bracket

The timber

The timber for this project can be either sawn (rough sawn) or dressed (gauged,

smooth finish). The measurements used in this project are for sawn timber. If

dressed timber is preferred, make allowances for the difference in timber thickness

and width.

Use a timber suitable for in-ground applications for the posts such as pressure

treated pine H4 or H5 and use a timber suitable for exterior applications for the rest

of the carport structure, such as pressure treated pine H3.

Any timber merchant or supplier will be able to advise on the timber most suitable.

The height

The height of a carport is in most cases, common sense. A tall person should be

able to walk comfortably under the lowest end of the carport. 2100mm from the

finished ground to the underside of the lowest end rafter, is a good height.

The slope

The roof slope (fall) should be at least 50mm. In this project the slope is 100mm. If

using a clear PVC roof, then a steeper slope is advisable, as a steeper fall (say

150mm) means faster water run-off, and therefore a cleaner roof.

The plans

The plans (click on the thumbnail) show a flat plan "bird's-eye view"

and an elevation (side) plan giving all dimensions. Refer to these

plans for any required measurements throughout the project.

click to enlarge

Setting out

Mark out the carport (6000mmx3000mm rectangle) and erect timber profiles out

from each corner and also out from the middle to take in the two center posts. Set

the timber profiles back at least 600mm from the building line (carport perimeter) to

allow room for hole digging etc. For instructions on making timber profiles click here.

Attach stringlines to indicate the centres of the six posts 100mm in from the side

edges and 350mm from the front and back edges.

INSTALLING THE POSTS

Method 1. Post set in concrete.

Dig post holes 300mm square by 600mm deep. Place 100mm of

concrete into the bottom of every hole.

Commence putting the posts in the holes against (but not touching)

the stringline. Using a spirit-level on both the front and side faces,

check that the post is plumb (vertical) and almost, but not quite,

touching the stringline.

Fill the hole with concrete to within 50mm of the finished ground level.

Check again that the post is plumb and not quite touching the

stringline. Because of the depth of the hole, the concrete will support

the post without the need for bracing. Continue until all posts are

concreted in.

click to enlarge

Method 2. Galvanised post brackets set in concrete.

Dig post holes 300mm square by 600mm deep. Fill the holes with concrete and set

the brackets in position while the concrete is still soft. Ensure the brackets are at the

right height, taking the finished slab (carport floor) into consideration. Some

temporary packing, props or bracing may be needed to support the brackets until

the concrete stiffens up. Wait until the concrete has cured (usually at least four

days) and then install the posts plumb (vertical) in the brackets and hold in place

with temporary bracing.

Method 3. Galvanised post brackets bolted to existing concrete slab.

Fix the brackets to the slab, in position with masonry bolts or anchors. Install the

posts plumb (vertical) in the brackets and hold in place with temporary bracing.

TRIMMING THE POSTS

Mark the rear posts a minimum of 2300mm above the slab, or finished ground level.

Ensure the height marks on both rear posts are level. Use a spirit-level on a straight

edge to achieve this or the water level method. Mark the front two posts 100mm

higher than the rear posts. Fix a stringline between the front and back posts to mark

the height of the middle posts. Cut the tops of the posts off at these marks.

THE BEAMS AND RAFTERS

Cut the two beams 6000mm long with 45degree angle cuts each end

and clamp in place to the posts so that the tops of the beams are

flush with the tops of the posts and protrude past both the front and

rear posts by 300mm. Drill and bolt the beams to the posts with M12

galvanised bolts, (two at each meeting).

click to enlarge

Cut the two end rafters 3000mm long with 45degree angle cuts each end and fix in

place to the beams with 75mm jolthead galvanised nails and then with galvanised

angle brackets, each bracket fixed with four M12 galvanised bolts, two through the

beam and two through the rafter. (See diagram).

Cut the six intermediate rafters 2900mm long and fix in place to the beams with

galvanised metal joist hangers. Space the rafters at 900mm centres (crs, o.c.). See

the plan.

Finish off with a longitudinal row of trimmers (noggings) down the middle and in

between the rafters.

THE BRACING

If the posts are concreted into the ground, and the posts are bolted to

the beams with two bolts at each meeting, then no further bracing

should be required. If, however, the posts are not in-ground, but

supported by galvanised post brackets, then additional bracing is

required. One such scenario is to fix upper post diagonal bracing (see

diagram) , two to each post, each about 900mm long (more or less),

and fixed to the post with nailplates and fixed to the beam/rafter with

bolts.

click to enlarge

Another scenario is to fix full 100x100 diagonal braces running from the bottoms of

the middle posts to the tops of the end posts and secure with bolts, nail plates or

galvanised brackets at each end. A similar diagonal brace is also required between

the two rear (end) posts. With this latter scenario, the diagonal braces could be

replaced with diagonal trellis (lattice) between the two end posts and the end post

and middle post each side (three panels in all). Both bracing methods mentioned in

this scenario also require roof plane bracing to ensure the front of the carport is

rigid. This can be 25mmx1mm flat galvanised metal strapping stretched from corner

to corner and fixed with galvanised nails to the top of each rafter.

THE ROOF

You can now apply your chosen roof.

All done. Eazy with a "Z"!

Glossary of terms used in this project

BEAM: A supporting member.

BRACE: To make rigid

BUILDING LINE: The outline of a

building.

CENTRES: Crs; O.C; Term used for

spacing; The measurement of spacing

for studs, rafters, and joists in a

building from the center of one

member to the center of the next.

CRS: See centres.

JOLTHEAD: General purpose

nail. Small round head.

LONGITUDINAL: Running the

length of the building.

M12: 12mm thick galvanised

bolt.

MASONRY: Stone, brick,

concrete, hollow-tile, concrete

block, or other similar building

units or materials.

PROFILES: Timber profiles;

Horizontal boards attached level

to stakes, used to mark out the

boundary of a construction and

establish the levels.

PVC: Plastic type roof, spouting

and downpipe.

RAFTER: Parallell members of a

roof that support battens/purlins

and roofing materials.

CURE: Mature; Harden; Set.

DIMENSIONS: Any of the three linear

measurements, length, breadth, and

depth.

DRESSED: Relating to timber.

Planed; Smooth, even surface;

gauged.

ELEVATION: Side view of a building.

END RAFTER: Rafter each end of the

roof frame.

FALL: Of roof. Pitch; The incline angle

of a roof surface.

FLUSH: being even with

GALVANISED: Covered with a

protective coating of zinc.

GAUGED: See dressed

H3: Of timber Presure treated suitable

for exterior use but not in-ground.

H4: Of timber Presure treated suitable

for exterior use and in-ground

applications.

H5: Of timber Presure treated suitable

for exterior use and in-ground

structural applications.

JOIST HANGER: U shaped metal

hanger attached to a bearer or beam,

into which a joist or rafter is fitted.

MASONRY BOLT/ANCHOR:

Special screw or bolt for masonry

that expands when tightened.

MEETING: Where two members

meet.

MEMBER: Piece of timber that is

part of a frame or structure.

NAIL PLATE: Gang nail plate;

Metal plate with rows os sharp

points that are hammered into

butt-jointed timber to secure the

join.

NOGGING: Trimmer; A short

piece of timber set between two

studs, joists, rafters or purlins to

keep them rigid.

O.C.: On centre; (See centres)

PERIMETER: boundary.

PLANE BRACE: A diagonal

brace running along the plane of

a roof.

PLANED: See dressed.

PLUMB: Vertical; Upright.

PURLIN: Timber used to support

roofing sheets. Usually fixed on

top of rafters, but in this case the

purlins are the rafters.

RECTANGLE: Four sided figure

with four right angles.

ROOF PLANE BRACE: See

plane brace.

SAWN: Rough sawn; Not

gauged, planed or dressed.

SLAB: Of concrete; pavement,

i.e. driveways, garages, and

basement floors.

SLOPE: See fall.

SPIRIT LEVEL: Tool used to

ensure surfaces are level or

plumb by means of a bubble in a

tube of liquid fitted to the level.

STRINGLINE: A slightly elastic

string stretched between two

pegs and used as a guideline.

Determines the building line.

TIMBER PROFILE: See profiles.

TRIMMER: See noggings

VERTICAL: See plumb.

The Carport Plans

and Dimensions

The Carport Posts

The Carport Beams and Rafters

Carport - Free Standing, Flat Roof.pdf

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