Crafts - Woodworking - Magazine - Woodsmith #097 - Apothecary Cabinet.pdf - meble - szumeczek100

Classic Sideboard • Varnishing Techniques

Sturdy Saw Horses • Twin Mortise & Tenon • Veneering

Apothecary

No. 97

February, 1995

EDITOR'S

COLUMN

Sawdust

Editor

Executive Editor

Managing Editor

Assistant Editors

Donald B. Peschke

Douglas L Hicks

Terry J. Strohman

James M. Dolan

Jonathan Garbison

Mark A Williams

Ted Kralicek

David Kreyling

Cinda Shambaugh

DirkVerSteeg

Mark Higdon

Crayola England

Chris Glowacki

Ken Munkel

Kent Welsh

Steve Curds

Steve Johnson

Liz Bredeson

Sandy Baum

TroyJ. Dowell

KentABuckton

Shane S. Francis

problem or "even out" the color of a

project. But they can also be used to

emphasize a design feature or show off an

interesting grain pattern.

APOTHECARY CABINET. For the apothe-

cary cabinet, I used a stain both to hide a

problem and to emphasize the design.

The wood drawer pulls on the cabinet

were birch, so they had to be stained to

match the cherry. But I also used the stain

to emphasize the small, identical drawers.

I did this by staining everything but the

drawers. The difference between the

stained and unstained wood creates a sub-

tle contrast, highlighting the drawers.

SIDEBOARD. The

sideboard on page 6

was more of a chal-

lenge. Using an off-

the-shelf stain was out

of the question. The

pigments in the stain

would hide the curly

maple figure.

So I used aniline

dyes. They actually

show off the figure of

the grain. All I had to

do was mix up the

right color.

Pretty soon, my

bench was covered

with jars of powder

and solutions of dyes

in different combinations and concentra-

tions. It looked more like a chemistry lab

than a woodworking shop.

The result of all these experiments can

be seen in the photo. (We chose the sec-

ond sample from the top on the right side.)

A little more work? Yes. But the results re-

ally bring out the figure of the curly maple.

COMPUTER BULLETIN BOARD. A couple

of months ago Gordon Gaippe, our Pub-

lishing Services Manager, dropped by my

office to tell me about his new home com-

puter. He started talking about how he

could have his computer call into some-

thing called a "bulletin board."

Well, I was confused. The only kind of

bulletin board I knew of was hanging on

the wall down in the lunch room.

"Okay," he said. "Just think if that cork

bulletin board was seen and used by all

Woodsmith readers. And they could post

their woodworking questions and advice

to other readers. There might also be no-

tices about what to expect in an upcoming

issue, meeting announcements — maybe

even tools for sale."

My first reaction was that this board

would require a lot of cork. "Not if it's on a

computer," Gordon said.

Now he had my attention.

It didn't take long before we decided to

"test the waters." To begin, we found out

through a survey that over 50% of our

Woodsmith readers own a home com-

puter. So we set up some addresses where

readers could contact us (see the "E-Mail"

numbers below in

the lower left hand

corner).

The response was

so good that we de-

cided to start our

own bulletin board

service (BBS). It's

called WoodNet,

and it's officially

open for business.

(Consider this a

computer cable-cut-

ting ceremony.)

If you have a

computer and a

modem, you can

call WoodNet at

515-245-9663.

What you will find are indexes of wood-

working articles, club newsletters, files

and photos to download, and a woodwork-

ing Helpline.

But I think the best part of WoodNet are

the forums. Here you can post questions

and get responses from fellow woodwork-

ers. You can even talk in "real time" with

other folks who are signed onto the bulle-

tin board. I'm looking forward to seeing

what everyone's talking about.

Until April 1st, WoodNet is completely

free. If you've never used a bulletin board

service, don't worry. There's lots of advice

right as you sign on. And if things are still

confusing, give Gordon a voice call on the

"real" telephone at 515-282-7000. He can

answer your questions and get you started.

NEW FACE. Shane Francis has joined

Woodsmith as our Circulation Analyst.

Creative Director

Senior Illustrators

Illustrator

Photographer

Electronic Graphics

Design Director

Senior Designer

Shop Manager

Shop Asst./Facilities

Circulation Director

Subscription Manager

Direct Mail Manager

Newsstand Sales

Circulation Analyst

PUBLISHING SERVICES

Mgr: Gordon Gaippe • Graph. Artist: Cheryl L. Cynor

CORPORATE SERVICES

Planning Director: Jon Macarthy • Controller: Robin

Hutehinson • Account: Laura Thomas • Bookkeeping:

Julie Greenlee • Production Mgr.: Carol Quijano • Info.

Serv. Mgr.: Joyce Moore *Elec. Pub. Coord.:

Douglas M. lidster »Applic. Spec.: Linda Morrow

'Sup. Asst: Nick Thielen • Admin. Assistants:

Cheryl A. Scott, Julia Fish 'Receptionist: Jeanne

Johnson • Build. Maint.: Ken Griffith

WOODSMITH MAIL ORDER

Art Dir.: Cindy Jackson* Catalog Prod. MOT.: Bob

Baker • Inv. Control/Prod. Mgr.: Mark Mattiussi

• Proj. Supplies: Linda Jones • Tech. Supp: Jeff Janes

CUSTOMER SERVICE

Supervisor: Jennie Enos • Customer Service Reps.:

Jennifer Murphy, Joy Krause, Sara Kono, Anna

Cox, Lonnie Algreen, Karla Cronin

SHIPPING DEPARTMENT

Supr: Nancy Johnson • Fulfillment: Gloria Sheehan,

Chuck Carlson, Sylvia Carey, Larry Prine

WOODSMITH STORE

Manager: Dave Larson • Assistant Manager: Paul

Schneider • Sales Staff: Wendell Stone, Pat Low-

ery • Office Manager: Vicki Edwards

Woodsmith® (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly

(Feb., Apr., June. Aug., Oct., Dec.) by Woodsmith Corp.,

2200 Grand, Des Moines, IA 50312.

Woodsmith® is a registered trademark of Woodsmith Corp.

Subscriptions: Single copy: $3.95. One year subscription (6

issues), $19.95. Two years (12 issues), $35.95. (Canada/For-

eign add $5 per year. U.S. funds.)

Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, IA and at addi-

tional offices.

Postmaster: Send change of address to Woodsmith, Box

10718. Des Moines, IA 50350.

Subscription Questions? Call 1-80O-333-5075, 8:00 am

to 5:00 pm, Central Time, weekdays.

E-Mail. Prodigy: EDJE97A, CompuServe: 75330,2301, Internet

75330.2301@compuserve.com., America Online: Donpeschke.

Printed in U.SA

Woodsmith

No. 97

S tains are often used only to hide a

A LOOK INSIDE

Contents

FEATURES

Classic Sideboard 6

To make this sideboard authentic-looking, we used curly

maple veneer and a hand-rubbed varnish finish.

Classic Sideboard

page 6

Twin Mortise & Tenon....................... 14

Sometimes two small mortises and tenons are stronger

than a single large one. The reason is simple. There's twice

as much good gluing surface.

Veneering............................................ 18

Here's a veneering technique that uses a traditional veneer

but with modern adhesives and no clamps.

Twin Mortise & Tenon

page 14-

Apothecary Cabinet 20

The drawers in this compact cabinet are joined with a

locked rabbet. It's a simple way to get a strong joint.

Varnishing 24

Protect your heirloom projects with a hand-rubbed finish

that's durable and smooth as glass.

Sawhorses 26

Who couldn't use a pair of sturdy sawhorses? This simple

design only takes a weekend to build and will last a lifetime.

Apothecary Cabinet

page 20

DEPARTMENTS

Tips & Techniques 4

Shop Notes 16

Talking Shop 30

Sources................................................ 31

Sawhorses

page 26

No. 97

Woodsmith

FROM FELLOW WOODWORKERS

Tips & Techniques

SCORING DOWELS

• A quick and safe way to cut a

piece of dowel to length is to use

a band saw. But there's always

tearout on the backside of the

dowel as you finish the cut.

To eliminate the tearout, I'll

first score the circumference of

the dowel by making a shallow

cut (about Vie" deep). The trick

is to keep the dowel from mov-

ing from side-to-side while mak-

ing the cut. (Otherwise, the cut

line won't be in the same posi-

tion all around the dowel.)

To do that, clamp a stop block

on your fence (in front of the

blade) to set the length that you

need. Then place the dowel

against the stop block and using

your miter gauge for support,

slowly roll the dowel against the

blade. Roll the dowel until it's

scored completely around the

outside, see Fig. 1.

Finally, feed the dowel

through the blade using the cut

line for a guide, see Fig. 2.

Doug Kenney

South Dennis, Massachusetts

QUICK TIP

Make shallow cut

around outside

,— of dowel

PAD PROTECTOR

• I'll use a cotton pad to apply wip-

ing finishes. But the pad sheds fi-

bers as it wears. To keep the fibers

out of the finish, I made a "pad pro-

tector" from the toe section of a dis-

carded pair of pantyhose. I slip the

cotton pad into the toe and tie a

knot in the nylon to hold it in place.

The nylon traps any loose fibers

from getting in my finish.

Jerry Steger

Beaumont, Tex<

NOTE:

Feed dowel

through blade to

complete cut

NAIL SCRAPER

• After routing fluted caps for

the classic bookcase in Issue 95,

I had burn marks in the flutes.

Instead of removing the marks

with a hacksaw blade scraper as

you suggested, I used a simpler

tool for a scraper — a nail.

It's made by grinding the

head of a common lOd nail. (I

had more nails lying around

than old hacksaw blades.) First

I made a handle from a scrap

block of wood. Next, drill a pilot

hole in the block of wood. Then,

drive the nail into the handle.

LAYOUT GUIDE

• I use dimension lumber for a

lot of jobs. But lining up layout

lines between the sides and face

can be difficult. That's because

the edges are never square.

To solve this problem I use a

jig to mark the face and edge in

one step. It's just two blocks

glued and screwed together to

form a right angle, see Drawing.

Jim Hall

San Francisco, California

Layout line

Now grind the head until you

get a sharp edge, see drawing.

Pete Potts

Burlington, Wisconsin

Transfer

layout lines

from face

to edge

FOAM BRUSH

• I use foam brushes to touch

up small areas. But I never have

any when I need them.

So I make "instant brushes"

by sticking pieces of self-adhe-

sive foam weatherstripping on

scrap pieces of wood. For larger

brushes, wrap the weatherstrip-

ping around the end of the stick.

William Scott

Raleigh, North Carolina

Insert nail into

block handle to

grind nail head

Grind nail head

until one edge

is sharp

Woodsmith

No. 97

STONE HOLDER

• I just purchased a sharpening

guide that rolls on the top of a

sharpening stone. But the only

stone that I have is too small to

work with the guide. So instead

of buying a larger (and more ex-

pensive) stone, I made a stone

holder for my small one. It "ex-

tends" the length of the stone so

I can use my sharpening guide.

The holder is a 3 /4 "-thick piece

of plywood with a pocket routed

in one face, see • Fig. 1. The

pocket fits my stone and is just

deep enough so the top sits

flush with the plywood, see Fig.

la. Note: Make the holder long

enough so there's room for the

sharpening guide to roll.

After sharpening a chisel, it's

easy to add a micro

bevel to the edge.

Rather than adjust-

ing the chisel in the

guide to change the

angle, just slip a thin

shim (about Vie") under it to

raise it a little. Then make a few

final passes across the stone.

Note: I used some Formica for

my shim, but any material with

a uniform thickness will work.

George Hallgren Sr.

Bel Air, Maryland

NOTE:

Top of

stone sits

flush with

face of

plywood

Shim changes angle

of chisel to form

micro-bevel edge

Cut pocket to

match size of stone

Sharpening guide--

MOUNTING PLATE

• Space in my shop is at a pre-

mium, especially the top of my

workbench. So I can't mount my

tools, like a vise, permanently.

To keep my benchtop tools

handy and ready for use, I made

a simple mounting plate for each

tool. Now I can quickly install or

remove them by tightening or

loosening a single wing nut.

The mounting plates are just

3 /4"-thick pieces of plywood

bolted to each tool. An align-

ment pin is glued in one end,

and a long bolt is installed in the

middle, see Fig. 1. The bolt and

wing nut hold the tool to the

bench. And the alignment pin

keeps the plate from moving,

see Fig. 2.

The mounting plates can be

different sizes depending on the

tool being used. (My grinder

has a bigger plate than my vise.)

But the alignment pin and

threaded bolt are always lo-

cated in the same spot. That way

either plate will fit in the same

holes drilled in the workbench.

Kenneth Kilmurray

Minot, North Dakota

SUBMIT YOUR TIPS

If you would like to share

an original shop-tested tip,

send it to Woodsmith, Tips

and Techniques, 2200 Grand

Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa

50312. Or if it's easier for you,

FAX it to us at: 515-282-6741.

E-Mail: 75330.2301@com-

puserve.com.

If we publish it, we will

send you $30 to $150, depend-

ing on the published length.

Include a brief explanation

and sketch (or photo). And

don't worry, we'll rewrite the

tip and redraw the art if nec-

essary. Also, please include a

daytime phone number.

Countersink

carriage

bolts in

plate

Mounting plate

W-thick

plywood)

No. 97

Woodsmith

Crafts - Woodworking - Magazine - Woodsmith #097 - Apothecary Cabinet.pdf

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