Wirework.pdf

Wire Work

Wire may form the foundation of a piece of jewelry, or it may

be applied as a decoration. It is often twisted to add lightness to

a design, and can easily be formed into coils or line units of deco-

ration for flat or curved surfaces. Twists and coils of wire can be

made of round, half round, or square wire.

Keep the 14 gauge or heavier wire in coils. Wire of a lighter

gauge may be wound on spools. If kinks occur in the lighter

gauge wire they can be removed by holding the wire ends firmly

and the length taut while drawing it over the edge of a wooden

bench, or block of wood.

THE JIG

Many of the wire units, coils, and twists shown in this book

were made on jigs. The word "jig" is a mechanics' term given to

a device which is used to guide a tool or a material. A j i g makes

the forming of an article easier during construction and makes the

finished pieces mechanically more perfect. When a design re-

quires duplication of parts, a jig is often used. The one shown

here was made on a block of wood with nails spaced and ham-

mered into the wood, the nail heads sawed off, and the ends made

smooth so the wire units may be formed and removed easily.

Wire unit made on a

jig and some of the

ways it can be used

Ends turned under to make slides

for belts

Drops for necklaces

Wire twisting

Often a design calls for a twist of given length, sometimes a tight

or loose twist. To determine the length to cut the wire is impor-

tant. The gauge of the wire as well as the number of twists the

wire is given will determine the length of the finished piece.

When round wire is used, two or more lengths are necessary for

the twist. A rope-like effect may be obtained by twisting a single

length of flat or square wire. All wire should be annealed.

Twisting wire 18 gauge or lighter

Measure the amount needed for the twist.

Loop the wire length in the center, and insert the two

loose ends through the hole in the spool. Hold the ends

in the jaws of a table vise. Insert a small steel rod

through the loop of wire, and pull

the wire taut. Hold the spool firmly against the rod.

Turn the rod to twist the wire.

Twisting wire 16 gauge or heavier

Hold the looped end of the wire in the jaws of the hand vise.

Clamp the loose end in the jaws of the table vise. Turn the

hand vise to twist the wire.

To determine the length

In cutting the wire for a definite length of finished twist, the

following examples have been given of two round wires of

different gauges and lengths.

18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 11 1/8 , inches

18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 75 times, gives 9 5/8 inches

18 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 5 1/4 inches

20 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 4.7/8^ inches

Twisting fine wire

The wire is annealed.

It is held taut while

being twisted but will

break if it is twisted

too tightly.

Twisting heavier wire

Making a round wire coil

Coils of wire can be made on mandrels of various sizes and

shapes. The simplest is the coil of round rings made of round

wire. There are many uses for the coil. When sawed into rings

it may be made into a chain. By pulling the wire on both ends to

stretch the coil, an open wavy coil results, which may be curved

or bent to follow a line for decoration. The open coil may also be

flattened into a decorative band of overlapping rings. A cone

shaped coil can be made on a round pointed mandrel (knitting

needle). These may be used for pendants to give movement and

interest to a design and are sometimes used as a fringe for an edge.

The jig

Select a round steel mandrel the diameter of the coil de-

sired. Place between two blocks of soft wood parallel with

the grain of the wood.

Press the blocks between the jaws of the table vise to form a

groove in each block. Remove the mandrel from the

blocks, and file a groove at a right angle to the groove

made by the mandrel.

Coiling the wire

Place the mandrel between the blocks in the groove letting

the end extend beyond the blocks about 1/2 inch. Hold

the blocks in the jaws of the table vise tight enough to

hold the blocks but loose enough so the mandrel will turn

and move out of the groove as the wire is coiled. Make a

few coils on the end of the mandrel. Clamp the

mandrel and coils in the jaws of the hand vise. Hold the

loose end of the wire in the filed groove during

the coiling process to guide the wire and to keep the coil

even. Use the hand vise as a handle to turn the mandrel

to form

the coil.

The blocks holding the mandrel

are held in the bench vise.

The protruding end of the mandrel is held in the hand

vise, and the coil is formed by turning the hand vise.

The wire is held taut and is guided by the left hand.

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: