A220_v04.pdf

3 Basic Bodice Block

3.1 Introduction of x values

OTMS

First, visualise the figure again and then, approach the figure-specific x values. These are x values x10, x12,

x16, x26, x30 and x31 which will be explained in more detail inthe following section.On the basis of these

reflections the first stage of the draft for the figure-specific basic block is developed.

This first stage is also called the draft level. A toile should be made up to ensure the fit of the block.

In the industry, this basic block is developed to fit the prototype of the company and is used

for pattern development. The characteristics of the x and g values have been chosen to suit a variety

of different body shapes, not just one prototype.

STAGE 2: BASIC TYPE

Now, the second level of pattern drafting begins. The basic type or silhouette of the style is determined via

the x values for basic type modelling. The basic type x values are x1 to x9, x11, x13 to x15 and x19 to x26.

With these x values the basic type can be adjusted which determines the appearance of the garment.

Only now, sleeve development can ensue by adjusting the one-piece or two-piece sleeve.

The following body measurements are required: l Ac, l Ta, HB, HBT, B Rü, b Vo o, b Ar, u Oa, b Ak, l Ar,

uHa,uTa,uGe,lGe

x value

Description

Standard Value

x10

x11

x12

x13

x14

x15

x16

x17

x18

x19

x20

x21

x22

x23

x24

x25

x26

x27

x28

x29

x30

x31

ease allocation according to Hillers

ease allocation according to OPTIKON

height relocate waist

height relocate scye box

½ addition to across back

addition to scye

½ addition to across bust

½ addition to waist

½ addition to hip

reduce CB at waist line

(1) for construction with CB fold

increase CB at hip line

drop neckline at CB

increase neckline at shoulder bk and ft

drop neckline at CF

content shoulder dart back

length shoulder dart

position shoulder dart in % from CB

ease armhole bk in mm

relocate bust point towards side seam

change bust suppression in %

disperse bust dart into armhole in mm

disperse bust dart into CF in %

increase shoulder

shoulder pad height

content waist dart back

length waist dart back / upper

length waist dart back / lower

position waist dart back in % from CB

length waist dart front / lower

disperse waist dart front

100

160

140

120

PIAS

OTMS

3. Basic Bodice Block

3.1 Introduction of x values

x32

x33

x34

x35

x36

hip curve angle to waist line

additional shoulder angle front

relocate armhole / side seam towards front

armhole shape front point position

armhole shape front reduction

Description

Standard Value

-75

3.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

ease allocation according to Hillers

(x 1)

The default setting of 0 results in the bodice block being constructed with the

body measurements, exactly. x1represents general ease, i.e. if x1 is given a value

it causes a chain reaction, automatically adding a portion of ease to

The scye box is also moved

b Rü, b Al,

b Vo,b Ta, b Ge, b Ak, u Ha.

according to x1.

z Rü/2 = 1/6 x 1

z Al = 4/30 x 1

z Vo/2 = 1/5 x 1

zTa =x1

zGe=2/3 x1

zAk=1/6 x1

relocate scye box = x1

The complete bodice block is given ease according to x1

ease allocation according to OPTIKON

(x 2)

The default setting of 0 results in the bodice block being constructed with

the body measurements, exactly.

x2represents general ease, i.e. if x2 is given a value it causes a chain reaction,

automatically adding a portion of ease to

The scye box is moved, also according to x2

b Rü, b Al, b Vo,b Ta, b Ge, b Ak,

uHa.

z Rü/2 = 3/20 x 2

z Al = 4/20 x 2

z Vo/2 = 3/20 x 2

z Ta = 3/4 x 2

z Ge = 3/4 x 2

z Ak = 3/20 x 2

hAV=1/4 x2

When applying x1 or x2 the decision of individual setting of x values is removed

from the user.

height relocate waist

(x 3)

The default setting is 0 so that the body measurement for nape to waist

centre back is reached. A negative x value lengthens the nape to waist

measurement, a positive value shortens the length.

height relocate scye box

(x 4)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. A negative x value increases

the measurement h Ac so that the armhole is increased. A positive value reduces

the measurement h Ac and the armhole. If x1 or x2 have been applied the scye

line is adapted according to these settings. The x value x4 remains visible in

the list with default 0. x4 can be used for additional influence on the armhole.

½ addition to across back

(x 5)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The ease relates to ½

across back measurement. As a rule, the x value is positive and increases the

width across back. With a negative value across back width can be reduced.

When using x1 or x2 the ease of x4 is added to the across back measurement.

addition to scye

(x 6)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. A positive x value increases

the armhole and vice versa. When using x1 or x2 this ease is added to the scye box.

PIAS

x value

hAV=1/4 x1

3. Basic Bodice Block

3.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

½ addition to across bust

(x 7)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. Positive values increase the

across bust measurement and vice versa. When using x1 or x2, x7 is processed in

addition to those.

½ addition to waist

(x 8)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The value is added into the

waist as ease but does not alter the waist darts. The programme ensures that the

waist measurement required by the user is reached.When using x1 or x2 ease has

already been added to the waist. x8 will be processed in addition to this.

½ addition to hip

(x 9)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. The value is added to the

hip as ease. When using x1 or x2 this ease is processed in addition to these.

reduce CB at waist line

(x 10)

The default setting is 20 mm at CB and reflects a normal figure. For hollow backs

the value can be increased, for flat backs it can be reduced. The value can be set to

0 to 50 maximum depending on the shape of the back.

construction with CB fold

(x 11)

With default setting 0 the CB is cut on the fold. If the value is altered to 1 the CB

is cut with a seam.

increase CB at hip line

(x 12)

The default setting 0 reflects a normal figure. For hollow backs the CB can be moved

outwards. The value depends on the shape of the back.

drop neckline at CB

increase neckline at shoulder bk + ft

drop neckline at CF

(x 13)

(x 14)

(x 15)

Drop neckline at Centre Back.Increase neckline at the shoulder point back and front.

Drop neckline at Centre Front.

The 3 x values are pre-set to 0, reflecting the exact body measurement of the neck for

the block. When using x1 or x2 the neckline is altered, automatically so that these 3 x

values are processed in addition to the ease added previously.

content shoulder dart back

(x 16)

The default setting of 20 applies to the normal figure. The value can be increased or

reduced to reflect the figure.

length shoulder dart

(x 17)

The default length for the dart is 80 mm and reflects the normal figure. This value

can be adjusted depending on the figure.

position shoulder dart

(x 18)

This value is measured form the neckline. The default setting is 33 %.

ease armhole back

(x 19)

With the default setting of 0 the shoulder dart remains in place. x19 must not be

larger than x16 as the shoulder dart is relocated into the armhole as ease and will not

be sewn. The user should process this ease together with the shoulder pad. x19 is to

be set in conjunction with x21 and x22.

relocate bust point towards

side seam

(x 20)

With the default setting 0 the bust point is located exactly in the centre of the ½

across bust measurement. A positive x value moves the bust point towards the side

seam, a negative value towards the Centre Front.

PIAS

PIAS

3. Basic Bodice Block

3.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

change bust suppression in %

(x 21)

With the default setting 100 % the whole bust suppression angle from the

measurement chart is applied. This value can be increased or reduced depending

on how fitted the bodice block is supposed to be. With a reduction from 100 %

to 80 %, 20 % of the bust dart is relocated, invisibly into the armhole.

NB: 100% bust suppression means BA= 11º for size 32, BA = 14º for size 38,

BA = 29º for size 54. Because of these angles and the different location of the

bust points in the different sizes the ease in the armhole will be very different,

also:in the smaller sizes it will be too small and in the larger sizes too large

(beyond control).

disperse bust dart into the

armhole

(x 22)

With the default setting 0 no ease is added to the armhole. If a value is set for

x22 the armhole will obtain an absolute amount of ease, taken from the bust

dart. The application of x22 is to be regarded in conjunction with x19 in view

of the balance of the complete armhole in front and back. The shoulder pad

height should be taken into account.

Ease back armhole = ease front armhole +/- 10 mm

disperse bust dart into CF

(x 23)

The default setting is 0. After deduction of x21 or x22 a percentage of the

remainder of the bust dart in its original location can be relocated into the

centre front. The larger the ease added to the bodice block the larger x23 can be,

up to a maximum of 100%; e.g. for 240 mm ease to the bust x 23 can be 100%,

however, this is also size-related.

With the application of x23 the CF is angled from bust level to neck. The

larger x23 the larger the angle. Therefore, this solution should always be used

for revers collars or shawl collars. Never develop a high-cut neck garment

from this!

As a rule, the following applies to the size of the bust dart angle:

the larger the bust volume the larger the angle

the more the garment is fitted the larger the angle, e.g. a corsage with 180%; the

looser the garment (large ease) the smaller the angles.

houlder pads can reduce the angle through ease in the armhole.

increase shoulder

(x 24)

The default setting 0 corresponds with the body measurement. x24 should always

be used in conjunction with x5 (1/2 addition to across back). As a rule,

x24 = x5 +/- 10 mm applies. When using x1 or x2 the shoulder is increased,

automatically. x24 is applied in addition to this.

shoulder pad height

(x 25)

The default setting 0 is for a garment without shoulder pad. If x25 is applied the

front and back shoulders are lifted by this amount irrespective of the ease in the

armhole. The user should consider the ease in the armhole when determining the

shoulder pad height.

content waist dart back

(x 26)

The content of the dart is pre-set to 33 and corresponds with the normal figure.

Depending on the figure this dart can be increased or reduced. For hollow backs

increase the dart and vice versa.

length waist dart back/upper

(x 27)

The dart length is pre-set to 160 mm upwards from the waist for all sizes. With x27

this length can be controlled.

OTMS

3. Basic Bodice Block

3.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

ength waist dart back / lower

(x 28)

The length is set to 140 mm, representing the normal figure and can be altered

as required.

position waist dart back in %

(x 29)

The default setting of 50 % positions the waist dart half way towards the side

seam from the centre back. With x29 the position can be altered as required.

length waist dart front lower

(x 30)

The length for the waist dart is set to 120 mm for all sizes. It can be altered

with x30 as required.

disperse waist dart front

(x 31)

The front waist dart and the reduction at the side seam are balanced.

x30 is pre-set to 0, i.e. the ideal dart is visible with a resulting dart width

of 100%. Setting the value to 50 % for example reduces the dart width by

this amount and increases the side seam.

The maximum value is 100 %

no waist dart in the front.

hip curve angle to waist line

(x 32)

The default setting of -75º gives an ideal hip curve. The angle can be reduced or

increase as required.

additional shoulder angle

(x 33)

The default setting is 0. With this x value the angle of the front shoulder can be

influenced independently from the back shoulder.

relocate armhole /side seam point

(x 34)

The default setting is 5 mm. Relocation of this point results in the side seam

being moved towards the front or the back.

armhole shape front point position

(x 35)

The default setting is 50 %. With this value the position of an auxiliary point for

shaping of the lower armhole is determined.

armhole shape front reduction

(x 36)

The default setting is 13 mm. This value determines the auxiliary point from x35

additionally, thus further influencing the lower armhole shape.

PIAS

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: