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403391319 UNPDF
made-to-measure
drafting system
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OTMS
This
OPTIMASS
Version 1 is a collaboration of the
OPTIMASS
g
roup:
Dipl.-Ing. Helena Arndt
Dipl.-Ing. Hartwig Bohnenkamp
Dipl.-Ing. Gabi Fink
Dipl.-Ing. Elke Floß
Dipl.-Ing. Eva Hillers
Susanne Krill
Britta Schulte
Dipl.-Ing. Doris Wieloch
All due care has been taken in the collation of texts and images. However, the possibility of errors
can not be excluded, totally. The authors do not accept liability for any errors and their consequences.
The
OPTIMASS
g
roup welcomes constructive criticism and suggestions for improvement.
All rights reserved, in particular copyright, right of distribution and translation.
Copying and transfer of individual sections of text or images is permitted without the author’s consent,
provided no commercial use (sale) ensues and the extracts are referenced, properly.
First Edition: January 1998
Second Edition: October 1998
© 1998 by
OPTIMASS
-Gruppe
Contact:
FH Niederrhein
Frau Dipl.-Ing. E. Hillers
Webschulstr. 31
41065 Mönchengladbach
Germany
FAX: +49 (0) 2161 / 186713
PIAS
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OTMS
Preface
3
OPTIMASS
During the first excursion as a member of staff at the Fachhochschule Niederrhein (University for
Applied Science), I visited a number of renowned clothing companies in East Westphalia with 22
young and dynamic students. Each company visit and especially the shared evenings brought lively
discussions.
On the return journey, we were ensconced in a 'sleeve discussion' in which we came to the
conclusion: we need a sleeve, a sleeve that fits every armhole, a sleeve that is as flexible as possible.
From that day on, Frau Arndt, Herr Bohnenkamp, Frau Wieloch and myself met once a week to
puzzle over a sleeve in our spare time. We found the best basis in the Nattkemper and OPTIKON
drafts.
Then, we recognised that a sensible sleeve needs a good flexible armhole.
The next realisation was that a good variable armhole naturally requires a particularly adaptable
bodice block which can fulfil all the practical requirements. Therefore, we started work and devised
an new basic bodice block. From the beginning, it was clear to us that this would only be possible
with GRAFIS. Thetool GRAFIS allowed us to translate our findings very quickly and to test them in
practice.And we tested and tried. The aims we set ourselves became ever more demanding. At times,
we realised that we have to make compromises.
Now, the first version of
was created:
OPTIMASS
trousers and the adaptable basic bodice block with the sleeve adjustable in every way. Furthermore,
the two-piece sleeve, the unisex draft and the corsage are ready and available as programmes.
In the future, we will have a critical look at menswear, lingerie and childrenswear in order to achieve
similar results.
I find the collaboration with the
is finished and we introduce the variable skirt, the flexible
OPTIMASS
found motivated young people who follow and work on new goals with lots of idealism and
commitment.
Group very enjoyable and am very happy to have
"Clothing technologist you are with your whole heart or not at all!"
Eva Hillers
PIAS
This is how
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4
Contents
OTMS
Preface
Contents
Introduction
3
4 bis 5
7
1.
1.1
1.2
1.3
Landmarks on the Body
Anthtropometrical Points
Illustration of Body Measurements and Body Levels
Photographic Illustration of Measurement Device
8
8
9
9
2.
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
2.8
Measuring Technique
Definition and Illustration of Body Measurements
Common Measurements NOT used by OPTIMASS
Matrix for Determination of Bust Suppression Angle
Table for Bust Suppression Angle
Matrix for Determination of Seat Angle
Matrix for Determination of Shoulder Angle
Individual Measurement Chart
Explanations of Measuring the Body
10
10 bis 14
14
15
15
16
16
17
18 bis 19
3.
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
Basic Bodice Block
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
Quick x value reference
20
20 bis 21
21 bis 24
25 bis 30
31
4.
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
One-piece Sleeve
Introduction of z values
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
32
32
32 bis 33
33 bis 34
35 bis 37
5.
5.1
5.2
5.3
Trousers
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
38
38
39 bis 41
41 bis 45
6.
6.1
6.2
Quick x value reference
Trousers
Skirt
46
46
47
PIAS
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OTMS
PIAS
Contents
5
7.
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.5
7.6
Two-piece Sleeve
Introduction of z values
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
Quick x value reference
Possible sleeve head variations
48
48
48 bis 49
50 bis 52
53 bis 57
58
59
8.
8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
Unisex Bodice Block
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
Quick x value reference
60
60
61 bis 62
63 bis 66
67
9.
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
9.5
Unisex Sleeve
Introduction of z values
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
Quick x value reference
68
68
68
69
70 bis 71
72
10.
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
Corsage
Introduction of x values
Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
Drafting Instructions
Quick x value reference
73
73
74 bis 75
76 bis 81
82
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