Aldershot Close Combat Course.pdf

ARMY SCHOOL OF PHYSICAL TRAINING, ALDERSHOT

CLOSE COMBAT

1. OBJECT

To kill the enemy at close quarters, or under certain conditions to overpower or

disable him. Hand to hand fighting requires in its stark reality, the skill to fight and

kill even with the bare hands. A practical knowledge of Close Combat enables a

soldier to accomplish this successfully although opposed to an armed enemy, when he

himself may be completely unarmed.

With the vast extension in mechanized warfare, the opportunities to indulge in this

form of fighting have greatly increased, and the after dark tank hunting raids, which

have become a feature of modern war, offer great scope to the skillful exponent of

Close Combat.

2. GENERAL PRINCIPLES

Before going into detail and method there are some general principles to be learned

and remembered.

Unlike boxing, there are no rules in Close Combat. You are up against a ruthless

enemy who has been taught and trained to employ every possible means to kill you.

Remember, therefore, that it is your life or his, so do not hesitate to put him out of

action as quickly as possible, regardless of the means employed.

Attack is the best form of defense, so be on the attack or ready for it al all times. In

Close Combat the essentials of successful attack are surprise, speed, determination

and ruthlessness.

An armed man will always have the advantage over an unarmed man provided he

thoroughly understands his weapon, but do not allow the fact that you are unarmed to

disturb your confidence, because there are many ways in which you can get the better

of the enemy, in spite of his weapon.

If you find yourself disarmed and facing a man with a rifle, Tommy gun or revolver,

you can be pretty sure that for some reason or other he does not wish to shoot - maybe

he has no ammunition, or perhaps the weapon has jammed, or gain he may not wish to

make any noise - whatever the reason the fact that he does not shoot should give you

the confidence.

Always aim to get within arms length of an armed opponent and then get closer still.

The closer you are the less chance he has to use his weapon effectively.

In Close Combat there is no such thing as defense, there is only attack and counter-

attack. Your counter may contain a defensive movement, but only as part of your

counter-attack. A properly executed attack consists of no defense.

The soldier must first be taught the vulnerable points of the body and then to decide

quickly which of those is the most easily accessible according to the dress and

position of his opponent. These vulnerable points are:

(a) In front - the point of the chin; the front and sides of the throat, fork, knees,

insteps, and the solar plexus

(b) Behind - the base of the skull, kidneys, spine and fork.

3. APPLICATION

the spirit of attack should be kept alive throughout the training. To achieve this in the

early stages, the instructor should follow the sequence of attack and counter-attack as

detailed.

The various movements should be practiced carefully and slowly at first, working up

later to full speed - speed and surprise are the keys to success. In the early stages, the

lessons should be carried out in gym and sports kit, later working up to full battle

orders. All movements should be practiced on both sides to be able to deal effectively

with either a right or left handed opponent. To attain proficiency and self-reliance

frequent practice is essential.

4. ATTACKS

i) Unarmed

a) The Chin Jab - A sharp upward blow delivered with the heel of the hand, with the

weight of the body behind it, under the opponent's chin, the fingers being spread and

slightly bent, so that they may strike the opponent's eyes or nose.

b) Edge of the Hand Blow - Delivered with the inner (i.e. little finger) edge of the

hand, using that part opposite the base of the thumb, the fingers being kept straight

and close together, the thumb extended as far as possible. The blow is delivered from

the elbow with a chopping action.

c) The Knee Blow - A vigorous blow with the knee to the fork or solar plexus.

d) The Kick - Always kick with the sole of the feet. To do this turn slightly to one

side, draw the knee well into the body, then shoot the leg out straight, leaning away

from your opponent to maintain balance and obtain a longer reach. The exception to

this rule is when you are close to your opponent or attacking from behind when the

toe of the boot may be used effectively.

e) The Stamp - Scrape the outer edge of either boot sharply down either of your

opponent's shins, finishing up with a vigorous stamp on his instep. If he is not

wearing a top boot, a crape on his shin will be most painful, but the stamp on his

instep is the most important part of the blow and will be very effective even though he

is wearing a heavy rubber or leather top boot.

f) The K.O. Punch - To the boxer a strong left punch to the mark and right to the point

will K.O. the strongest opponent and may be used if opportunity occurs, but to the

novice in boxing the "edge of the Hand blow" described above is easier to learn and

more effective.

g) Forearm Attack - Strike with the inside of the forearm from behind viciously across

the throat and place the corresponding foot between the opponents feet. Drive your

hip into his back bringing him off his balance and at the same time transfer the free

hand to the other hand, which should remain extended with the palm downward, Step

backward bringing your opponent on to your thigh, at the same time force the

shoulder into the back of his head.

When dealing with a taller or an equipped opponent, approach him from behind and,

at a distance of about three feet dive with arms extended over his shoulders and

simultaneously apply the hold and force your hips into his back as your feet contact

the ground.

h) Low Rugby Kick - a vigorous low Rugby tackle from any direction consists of a

swift dive at an opponent's legs, which must be clutched together firmly. The impetus

of the dive causes him to lose his balance and the legs being held together prevent him

from regaining it. This movement can be practiced on a dummy such as a weighted

sack filled with sawdust or sand and suspended just clear of the ground. This attack

should chiefly be used against an opponent who is running away from you.

i) Ankle and Shoulder Throw - When attacking an opponent from the rear when

silence is not essential, adopt a kneeling position on one knee, the forward foot being

in line with the space between his feet. Grasp his ankles with cupped hands, hold and

simultaneously force the shoulder into his buttocks, whip the legs outwards and

backwards and come to the standing position. This throws your opponent on to his

face and you follow through with a kick to the fork. The advantage of this attack is

that you retain your feet whilst your opponent is brought to the ground.

ii) Armed

a) With a cosh, truncheon or similar weapon - The best results are achieved by blows

to the front and sides of the neck; the base of the skull and the point of the shoulder.

Do not strike straight downwards on top of your opponent's helmet, but downwards

and inwards at the neck in the angle of head and shoulder.

b) With a knife - The correct way to hold the knife is as follows:

The handle should be gripped with the thumb and forefinger against the guard, the

remaining fingertips being pressed against the rest of the handle.

i) Attacking a sentry from behind

a) Stalk quietly, place one hand on his nose and mouth pulling his head to the side and

then thrust the knife into his neck by the main artery below the ear, and cut

backwards. There should be at least three inches penetration with the knife.

b) Execute the same movements as in (a) above, but drive the knife into his kidneys.

Pull him backward onto the blade and at the same time force your hips forward to

assist penetration.

ii) Attacking a sentry from the front

a) Fake feinting movements then thrust for a vulnerable point, preferably his stomach

b) Slashes to the neck and arms are useful attacks if it is impenetrable to get in a direct

thrust

c) With a Steel Helmet The steel helmet can be used with great effect as a weapon of

defense, as well as serving its usual role as a means of protection. When kept on the

head it can be used to deal a vicious blow, either by butting, or with a quick jerk of

the head forward or backward so that the rim strikes your opponent's face. Similarly,

it can be used in the hand either as a shield or as a means of delivering a blow with its

edge. For this purpose it should be held with the thumb uppermost on the brim and

the fingers inside it.

5. DISARMS and COUNTER ATTACKS

a) Rifle and Bayonet

i) Remember that your opponent is either unwilling or unable to shoot. We will

almost certainly come at you with his rifle fixed firmly in line with your body. Go

towards him if you can, this will in itself put him off a bit - and when you are within a

few feet and ready for your attack, throw whatever you may have in your hand at his

face - anything will do, even a packet of papers or a notebook. Whatever it is will

make him blink and distract his attention for just a fraction of time, and in that split

second you must jump in and get inside his bayonet point, and so to close quarters.

As you go in, you must parry his rifle and bayonet sharply to your left - on no account

parry it in such a way as to bring the rifle between you and your opponent. Don't go

for the weapon - go for the man. Strike on edge of hand blow at neck or throat, or

apply the chin jab or knee to fork, and then follow up with other kicks or blows.

ii) When opponent attacks, deflect his bayonet to your left, but if he is left handed

then deflect to your right. Counter attack immediately as in (i) above. If he is

attacking, he will be on your after the parry when the knee to fork or chin jab will

prove most effective.

b) Revolver of Tommy Gun in front

It is only possible to attempt the movements described below when opponent

threatens you with the weapon at close range.

Remember that a man who holds you up with a revolver or Tommy gun is not a killer.

Otherwise he would shoot you without hesitation and search you afterwards. He does

not shoot, mainly because he does not wish to raise an alarm or perhaps he wishes to

take you alive. He cannot run the risk of your having a concealed weapon, and,

therefore, is sure to tell you to put your hands above your head. Finally, in order to

search you, he must come within reach of your hands.

The unexpectedness of finding himself attacked by an apparently defenseless person

will so surprise him that it will be the simplest thing possible to disarm him before he

knows what is happening. Note that the time is in your favor. Wait for the

opportunity that will surely come, and meanwhile bluff for all you are worth. Talk to

him, pretend to be frightened, and when he is off guard - not till then - attack.

Held up from in front

Your assailant gives the order "Hands Up" and covers you by pointing the weapon at

your stomach. Hold your hands above you head fairly wide apart, keeping the arms

fully relaxed, and lead your opponent to suppose you are scared. The reason for

keeping the hands apart is that your opponent cannot lock two objects at the same

time, and keeping the arms relaxed permits of speedier action. If he is watching your

left hand, use your right, if the right, use the left; should he be looking at your body or

face, use either. Should it be too dark for you to see which hand he is looking at, use

which you think best; he will not be expecting any attack.

i) Revolver - When he is close enough to you, with a quick downward swing seize his

right hand, simultaneously turning rapidly sideways towards your left-hand side. This

will knock the revolver outwards past your body.

Seize the revolver immediately with your left hand as close as possible, bend it

outwards and break his trigger finger and knee him in the fork. Follow up by

releasing your grip with your right hand and deliver a chin jab.

ii) Tommy Gun - The distance of attack, swing of the arm and turn the body as in (1)

above. Parry with your right hand the left hand of your assailant, close in quickly and

follow up with one or more disabling blows. After closing in, the left hand should be

used to prevent the Tommy Gun being swung back to the attack.

c) Revolver

i) Should your assailant cover you by holding a revolver or Tommy Gun in small of

your back:

Hold up your hands over your head and exhibit fear. Glance over your shoulder and

make sure that your assailant really has a revolver in your back and find out in which

hand he is holding it. For the sake of clarity, assume that he is holding it in his right

hand, which will be usual.

Turning rapidly inwards towards your left side, swing your left arm down, over and

around your assailant's right forearm, or barrel of Tommy Gun holding it with a firm

grip of your left arm against the left side of your body, simultaneously knee him in the

fork with your right knee and chin jab him with your right hand.

Keep a firm grip with your left hand in your assailant's right arm or barrel of Tommy

Gun, so that it will be impossible for him to shoot you or release his arm or gun and as

previously stated, the shock from the blow on the fork, or even the "chin-jab" will

cause him immediately to release his hod on the weapon.

ii) If it is not convenient to turn towards your left side, the following alternative

method can be employed:

Turning rapidly outwards towards your right side, swing your right arm down and

pass your right hand over and around your assailants revolver forearm, or the forward

hand on the Tommy Gun, holding it firmly against your body with the pressure of

your arm. Simultaneously strike him on edge of the hand blow on the Adam's Apple

with your left hand.

d) Knife or Bayonet

Counter attack by means of a vicious attack.

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