Book Case 1.pdf

BOOKCASE

133

1. Cut the plywood to size. Begin by ripping the plywood lengthwise into strips 15 3/4" wide.

The extension table on the Mark V helps support the heavy plywood for these long cuts, yet

even with this support, you should enlist the assistance of a helper or use a roller stand and

rear support table.

After ripping the plywood, crosscut it to length. Follow the cutting instructions in the list of

materials.

2. Cut the dados. Mark the position of your dados on the sides (A, O). All of your dados will be

3/4" wide and one-half the thickness of the plywood, or 3/8" deep, with some exceptions on the

top (B) and shelf divider (J).

Be sure the machine is unplugged for your set-up. Carefully line up the

marks you made on the edge of the plywood with the Dado Blade. Then

crosscut your dados with one edge flat against your miter gauge. This is a

tricky procedure because furniture-grade oak plywood has a very thin

veneer on the outside that is susceptible to splitting if it is not cut properly.

Set your speed dial to "R". Make a cut that is only as deep as the veneer

thickness on the plywood. Then lower the table to final depth and make a second cut at the

same place. The Stop Collars (from the lathe Tailstock) mounted on the table posts will set the

final Dado depth of cut.

The large table system on the Mark V 510 allows you to crosscut or Dado wide pieces with

ease. If you are working with the Mark V Model 500, use the Front Table Extension to help

support wide pieces as you crosscut and Dado. The Rear Support Table, Roller Stands, a

Miter Gauge Extension or a Cross-Cut Sliding table will also help provide additional stability.

Now mark and cut the other dados on shelf divider (K), and fixed shelves (G, N).

Mark the dados on shelf divider (J). The dados on the button will be on both sides of the piece,

so mark them just 1/4" deep.

Mark the Dado in the center of the top (B), but not the ones on the ends. Cut these dados.

3. Other dados and rabbets. Now that you have completed all the 3/4" dados, change the width

of your blade to 3/8". As you can see from the illustration of this Dado-Rabbet joint, the dados

on the ends of the top (B) are 3/8" wide, 3/8" deep, and 3/8" from the end of the board. Mark

and cut these dados.

134

The L-shaped cuts on the top of sides (A, O) are rabbets. Use the same 3/8" adjustment on

your Dado blade to cut them 3/8" deep right on the ends of the boards. Notice that these cuts

are on the opposite side of the previously cut dados (A, O).

4. Drillholes for brackets. Brown plastic shelf brackets are used here for the adjustable shelves.

They are available in hardware stores and fit in 1/4" holes. Mark and drill you holes in the right

side (O), and shelf dividers (J, K). These holes are set in two inches from the front and back, at

2" intervals up and down.

135

5. Finishing. At this stage, the finish is applied to the plywood. The reason for finishing the

unassembled boards is so you can work on them while they lie flat and so the finish will not

run.

Put masking tape on the ends of the boards that will be housed inside dados. The joints will

glue together better on bare wood.

6. Glue up the carcass. For this, you will definitely require the help of an assistant to provide

extra hands while you assemble the awkward pieces. Yellow wood glue is used.

Assemble the bookcase dry first to be sure all the pieces fit. Set your

clamps and check for square. Then re-assemble it with glue.

Leave out your adjustable shelves (F, H, M) and TV shelf (P) during the glue up.

7. Begin the face frame. Cut the left side (Q); right side (R), top (S), and bottom (T). Do not cut

the narrower, 3/4" molding strips at this time. As you rip the long 96" pieces, use a helper or

roller stand to hold them level during the cuts.

8. Joint the edges. Run the edges of your face frame pieces over the Jointer to square them up

and smooth them out. This will you give a much smoother edge than you get from the table

saw.

9. Drill dowel holes. Set up your Mark V for the horizontal-boring mode. Drill 3/8" holes in the

top and bottom edges of the long, 96" side pieces (Q, R). Each joint will have two dowels.

Measure the spacing on them so they will fit into the ends of the 3" bottom piece (T) and the 4"

top piece (S). Drill the holes as shown in illustration.

10. Match the dowel positions. Place 2 3/8" dowel centers into the

holes at the bottom edge of side piece (Q). With a try square or a

combination square, line up the bottom piece (T). Push it against

the dowel centers and tap it with a mallet to mark the exact

centers of your dowel holes. Then cut corresponding dowel holes

in the end of your bottom piece. Repeat this process for each end

of your top (S) & bottom piece (T).

NOTE: If you prefer, biscuit joints the Biscuit Joiner Attachment could be substituted for the

dowel joints suggested here.

11. Glue up the outer frame. Glue the 3/8" dowels and edges of the outer frame pieces where

they will join. Clamp them together and allow the glue to dry.

12. Finish the frame. Follow the same procedures you followed earlier. Finish all additional pieces

similarly just prior to assembling them.

13. Attach the face frame. Use glue and small finishing nails (2" long) and attach the outer face

frame to the carcass. Drill pilot holes into the frame so that the solid oak will not split.

14. Shape the molding. Use the Shopsmith Shaper Package your Mark V with a 1/2" Bead &

Quarter Round Cutter. Round the edge of a long piece of oak with the Quarter Round side of

the cutter. Then turn the piece over and round the other corner of the same edge.

136

After you have completed shaping the edge, rip it on the table saw so that it is 3/4" wide. You

now have half-round molding. Shape and cut enough molding strips to face all of your shelves

and shelf dividers, and both the front and sides of the TV shelf (P).

The secret to shaping is to take shallow cuts, follow all the safety guidelines, and experiment

with some scrap wood to test the results. Shaping is also mch easier with the DC3300 Dust

Collection System, which disposes of the chips just as they are being made.

15. Size the molding. Measure the shelf lengths after the outer frame is attached and cut your

3/4" molding strips to length.

Chamfer the ends of the molding. Set up your disc sander and tilt the table to 45°. Lay a

molding strip upside down against your miter gauge and chamfer the end to add a little accent

if you wish.

Since the TV shelf (P) will have molding on the sides as well as the front, the ends of the

molding will have to be beveled at 45° to "frame" the shelf on the front corners. Do not chamfer

the ends of the TV shelf molding.

16. Attach the molding. After applying the finish to the molding, nail the molding onto the front of

the shelves. Remember to drill pilot holes. Inset all of your finishing nails with a punch. Then

cover the holes with wood patch that is mixed with stain.

17. TV shelf hardware. A combination shelf slide and lazy-susan called a "TV Extension Slide"

will hold your TV shelf (P), and eventually your TV set. Attach the slide to the TV shelf (P) and

fixed shelf (N) with #8 3/4" screws.

18. Crown Molding

With your shaper, you can create a crown molding effect. This effect is

achieved by shaping the edge of a wide piece of oak with the Cove &

Bead Cutter.

Then flip the piece over and shape a corner on the opposite edge. After the piece is shaped,

rip one side on your table saw 3" wide and the other side 1" wide.

(The ripping is done after the shaping because shaping is safer with wide pieces.)

Repeat this process so that you will have two 3" wide and two 1" wide molding strips, each 48"

long.

All of the molding pieces must be measured precisely and cut with 45° bevels on the front

corners. To avoid mistakes, we suggest clamping each piece in place at the top of the

bookcase and checking precisely where the bevel cuts should go. Glue up each 3" and 1"

molding combination together. Line up the beveled edges, and then clamp them while the glue

dries.

Clamp each 1" and 3" molding combination to the top of the bookcase. Line up the corners

carefully. Then drill pilot holes from the inside of the bookcase and screw in #8 1 1/4" screws to

secure the crown molding.

19. Make the door. This door is optional and hides the "record" shelves. The vertical stiles and

horizontal rails are made on the shaper with the Complete Cabinet Set. The cutter is used in

different combinations and positions on the insides of the rails and stiles, and on the ends of

the rails. The Bead and Quarter Round Cutter is used on the outsides of the pieces to round

the outer edges on the front only.

137

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: