8043_instructions.pdf

your size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here".

Thus the fit is preserved.

PATTERN

1 Upper front 2x

Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the

same amount at the same lines.

2 Upper back 1x

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as

far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

3 Front 1x

4 Back 1x

5 Sleeve 2x

CUTTING OUT

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints :

The patterns are printed out on 12 sheets with a thin

frame. Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the

sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the

overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the

upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin

with the left lower sheet and then glue the parts in the

frame lines together precisely.

Select your cut size according to the Burda-dimension

table: Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the

bust size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width.

Change the patterns about 2/5” (1 cm) if necessary, to fit

your measurements if they deviate from the Burda-

dimension table.

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the centre line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the

pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned

to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides

are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the left side.

The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram,

extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from

a single layer of fabric.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included

on an average:

5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and seams. Use BURDA

carbon paper to transfer all pattern lines and markings to

the left side of the fabric pieces. You find instructions in

the packet.

LENGTHENING

SHORTENING

THE

PATTERN PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit

SEWING

When sewing, right sides of fabric should

be facing.

Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of

the fabric.

TOP

Upper front pieces

1) On the upper front pieces fold and press

the allowances of the neckline edge inwards,

fold again and baste. Stitch allowance

narrowly.

2) Double stitch the part under the bust using

basting stitches between ● and ● on the

pattern. Pull the underthread to the length of

the front piece (measure from the side edge

to front center). Knot threads. Space out the

gathering evenly..

Side seams

3) Position upper front piece onto upper back

piece facing right to right. Position front

piece onto back piece facing right to right.

Stitch side seams (seam 1 and 2). Trim

allowances, neaten and press backwards.

Dividing seams

Neaten upper piece at the bottom edge, the

front and back pieces at the upper edges.

4) Baste complete upper piece onto the front

and back piece facing right to right (seam 3)

and stitch. The upper front pieces meet at the

front center, side seams meet as well. Press

first the allowance of the bottom front piece

at the front center downwards then all others

(4a). Fold the allowances at the front center

inside to create a tunnel for elastic. Stitch

allowance for the tunnel approximately 3/8”

wide, stitch tunnel down at the same time.

5) Cut elastic for

Size 4 – 25 1/2” (65 cm)

Size 6 – 27” (69 cm)

Size 8 – 29” (73 cm)

Size 10 – 30” (77 cm)

Size 12 – 32” (81 cm)

Size 14 – 33 1/2” (85 cm)

Size 16 – 35” (89 cm)

long and insert it using a safety pin. Position

loose ends in front center diagonally on top

of each other and stitch it together. Secure

seam ends. TIP: Verify the fit first by trying

it on.

Back neckline edge

Stitch allowance of the upper back edge

according to text and drawing 1.

Hemline

6) Fold and press allowances, stitch edge

using a narrowly adjusted zigzag stitch. Trim

allowances close to the stitches. TIP: Do the

test on a remnant. Use machine thread or

darning cotton. Test machine stitch setting

and thread tension .

Sleeves

Neaten the allowance of the round lower

sleeve edge according to the text and drawing

7) Fold and press the allowance of the

opposite edge inwards, fold again, baste and

stitch it narrowly.

8) Baste front sleeve edge onto the front

piece, from cross line to sleeve line (seam 4)

and stitch. Secure seam ends. Stitch the

sleeve edge onto the back piece the same

way (seam 5). Trim allowances back to 3/8”

and neaten along the sleeve seams.

Armhole / bias tape

Fold bias tape along, press.

9) Baste bias tape between the sleeve edges

onto the armholes, so that the open edges

and the ends lay 3/8” (1 cm) onto the sleeves.

Stitch bias tape 3/8” (1 cm) wide. Trim

allowances, cut in.

10) Baste bias tape inwards and press. Stitch

armholes 1/4” (0.7 cm) wide, thereby

stitching the bias tape and allowances of the

sleeve seams.

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