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NO.40
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Sawdust
Edilor
DonaldE. P$chke
DesignOi€clo.
rsd Krallcet
AssislanlEditors
Stev€ Krohmsr
Dougl$ L. Hlcks
oou9la6 . Lld8ter
ArtOirsctor
KayMuld€r
T€chnical
SHARIIA coupleofweeksagoI washelping
a fiiend set up and sharpena brand nerv
jack plana. As he iookit out ofthe box for
the first tinre, h€ was a litile surprised
q,hen I looked at it andsai{i. "Boy, this is
Aoing to take a lot of work."
"It's brand new," he arsued, "why
shouldii necda lot of {ork?"
The problern is that we usuallyihink of
"ne!v" m€aninAthat something is in the
best condiiionpossible.Everything fiom
there on just weals it out.
But s'ith s'oods'orkins tools (especially
hand tools), jusi ihc oppositeis tne. A
nes' tool usually ne€dsa lot of work
€specially
Ii's messy,andthe endsof yoN finge$
tum a lot of different colors.but mixins
your oln stain is an inter€stingprocess.
The al.ticleslating on page 19 giles an
overview of the differenl types of stains
alailable. Then in Talkins Shop (page 2B)
ofihis issue,s'e sive a fomula for making
your o"n hone brew It opensa Lotof
possibilities for coloringwood.
This aticle continuesour sel.ieson fin-
ishing. We're already at work on the up'
comingaticles oniopcoais: vamish, shel
llluslfaloF
OavldKreyllng
ittk€ ttenry
SubscprionManagef
Srndy J. Baum
SubsriprionAssistanls
chrlst€llrln€r
vlcky Foblmon
JackleSiroud
Dlrna Sbr
Compul€rOpglalions
Ksn ittn€r
Circulation
r MBoLRs.W}lile I'm on the subject of
discoveringnew ways to doing thinss, I
found a nee use for a tambour. Although
the typical application is to use jt as a
sliding lid (as on a roli top desk),it does
have at least one other inie.esting
appiication.
I useda tanbour to fonn a cylinder to
buildthe umbrellaslandandpiaDterstand
sbo{r in this issue. (See pages 6 and r0.)
(By the way, in case you're sondering
aboutthe word "bumbershoot" in Lhesub-
title on page 6, it's English slang for
if it'sonethat has (or issupposed
to have)r sharyedse.Planenons, chisels,
andcarvingtoolsall needto be shar"ened
s'he. they're new And this taskcontinues
as lors as ihe tool is used.
Okax I've mademy casefor sharp€nins
- albeit not a very conirovelsialone,es
peciallywhen we're talking about planes
andchisels.But how aboutFo$tner bits?
This is on€tool most of us wouldneyer
dr€am of sharpening. The first one I
boushtcost $15 (for o"" y:" bt). A.d all it
took was on€ look al the business end to
conlincemethatth€re'snowayio sharpen
a FoNtner bit. Even ifit couldbe done,it
would certainly requirc an exp€nsivear-
ray of machineshopequipment.
So,the only rlternalive was to assume
that "new" in this casemeantthat the bit
wasth€ bestit sas going to be.And when
il sot dull, I would just lravelo tossil.
Waii aminute.Throw awaya$15bjt just
because
[,lanag6r
Jefl Farrls
AdminisratvoAssistant
Cheryl Scoti
BuildingMainrenance
AfchleKrauae
soURcDBoo(. Last year in September,
we sent out the frst editionofthe Wood
smith Sourceboak.The responseto that
nrst effort was overwhelming
orde$ ivere placed tha. we (or the adver-
tiseG) thoushl possible.Wlich indicates
onething: the SorlrceDoo/r
provedto be a
useful guide to the information that's
availableon woodsorkng catalogs,iools,
andsupplies.
This year, s'e'redoinganencore!iththe
Soarc€booi-It will bemailedoutlh€endof
August so you should receive it by the
middleof September.
For thoseof you q'ho havesubscrib€d
WOODSiII]H (SSN 0164-4114)
is publishgd
(January,March,May, July,Seplsm.
ber,November)
by WoodsmilhPublishiigCo.,
2200GrandAve.,Oes^,loin€s,
it's dutl. No s'aJ'.
Thal's when I decidedlo leam how to
sharyen Forstner bits. (See page 4.) It
didn't take longbeforeI discoveredthat a
I'olstner bit is relatively easJlo sharyen.
And then comesthe fun part. Just like
workins on a plan€ and se€ingthe first
cnsp shavings,it's a thrjll to seethe lons
ibbon of shavings that emersesf.om a
well-shar"enedForstner bit. In fact, ii's
lowa50312.
WOODSillTtl
is a fsgislered
trademakol lhe
WoodsmilhPublishing Co.
.Copylght 1985byWoodsmilhPublishing
Co.
to
Wooftntllr rec€ntl), the Sourceboakmar
comeasa surprise.Almost everyonelik€s
ihe fact that ure pages of woodsn ifi aren't
cluttercd with a lot of ads.
Onthe otherhand,manyofoursubscrib-
€l.Ns
Subcdptlon6:One year(6 issu€s) $10, Two
yeals(12 issues) $18. S,nglocopy pice, $2.50
(Canada andFofeign:add$2 peryear.)
changeolAddr63s:Pleasebesureroinclude
bolh youf oldandnewaddr€ss.
Seond cla33 po€ttge pald al DesMoines,
sralNs.It'sobviousthat I can getexcited
about sharpenins.But lhe subjeclof an-
oih€r art'cle in this issue $'olking with
stains is one I've nevef beentoo int€L-
estedin.
Part of il is that I like natuml sood.
Stain always seens artificial. But the
oiher palt is that I neverknew ivhatto do
silh a stain if I didn't like th€ particular
toneorcolon The bis question for mewas:
How do I get the color I want?
It turns outthat the ansrveris not nuch
different that the answer for how to
sharpena Fontner. All it iakes is some
niss som€ofthe informationthat ad-
vertising provides. So, we initiated the
Woatunith Saurcebaok
P$haslsr: Sendchang€or addressnolice,
Fom 3579, lo WoodsmithPublishing Co.,2200
Gand Ave.,DesMoines,
to ptovidea single
souce for ordering catalogsand product
lowa50312.
BACKISSUES
Allbackissuesol W@dsdnhar€stillavailablg.
Send lor a freebookleldescribing
Insjdethis year'sSorrrcebooi you'll find
descriptionsof 43 woodlorkins catalogs
and products.Yet,thepage.otwao&rlnith
masazinestayjust ihe way ev€ryonelikes
ihem advertisingfree.
I hope you find theSorrceboolhelpfulin
ploviding lhe information you need lo buy
shoptoolsand supplies.
NExr MAILTNG.
lheconrenrs
andp ces ol allbackissues.
SAUPLECOPIES
llyouhaveaffiendwhowould
likeloseeacopy
ofWoodshlih, juslsend !h€nam€andadd€ss,
andwellsenda sample(atno cost).
The Seplember/October
issueof Woo&nilh (No. 4l) sill be maiLed
during the week of October 15, 1985.
WooDsMlrH
bimonlhly
72784011.003.png
TipS S Ti..hniques
NO.ClAMP5 F'ATHTRAOARD
l'unbhrg Nitlr claups to faslen a fearh€r
board to a sa\r tableahvavsseenedlikc a
lot oftrouble io makeonecut. Recent\' I
built this no'clamps featherboardto solve
the ploblem.It\ anordinarxfeatherboar.l
Nith a lhin griile bar fastcnedto the bot
iom that tnounts in the table saw'smiter
scre$'s t$'istedrather than tightenedas I
turDed the \ ns nuts. I solved this br
cutting the slot in the top ofeach screwa
ofsclapasastopthat\just lhickenoughto
(edge in thc groole.
v'.,drll A tl.ts.,
HaDtrcatl,Illiiais
^":Er'":
,E*;W\E'
CTIANINO UP NOICHIS
Since I don't osn:] bandsas, I u,.edm)
sabresalr to cur out the notchcsiDthe top
andbottompieccsNhenI rvas buiklinstlre
EnslishUrallLanteln ( li'oodsDiitl No. 3d).
But I $asn t able to get an e!en, smooth
edge-Tbe router tabiesolvedthepl'oblem.
After making '/j-wme, fuildepth end
cuts on the table sa$r mafk a cut olTline
about %,,"
I beganbl' makinga featherboardoLrtof
5I stnck Olerall.mrnei. ; tride b\ 18'
lo',ganrl hasa l5'cut unthefeathrred end.
Theindi! Lralbarbs ofth. featherarc |I,i
\tide bY 3 long.
,{fter the 'feathcr" endis cur, rour two
v{-\dde br'6 lonCadiustment slorsallthe
Nay through ihe featherbodd. The slots
aI€ 2l:" apartandstart 1"fi.omlhe barbs.
r\"e\1,cut aguid€bar to Nidth andthick-
nes,c so it fits precisell in the miicr gauge
slot ofvour table saN Make it at least as
longasthe entire trble for Do$ laterit s
cut to 12".
lessthaDthe tul1depth.Then cut
alonsthis line $ith a sabresa\l
N€xt, mount a %" str.aightbit 0n th.
router tableandraise it up Lrntilit\ abo\,e
the thickness of the \olkpicce. Set the
distanceflom the lence to the outsideof
little deep€r and then slujng a finishins
nail nrto the slot $'ith epoxy.
Roheil K. Gndl
Attor,Itti ais
MI'IRING SMALI STOCK
I'!e made a number of projects that re
quire 'r' quater-round moklinss as glass
stops. These usualh r€quire a precise
miter. It's difficult to holdthe smatlmold-
inss tight andin the conect posiiionon a
table saN of traditional miter bori.
My solution was to make a mnriaturc
miter box. Th€ work suface is a pi€ce of
l/4 stock$ ith a /1"-$.ide
\'/i-deep gl oove
cut dorvnthe center io hokl the moiding.
(These ineasurements couldb€ alteredto
1lt the pieceto be mitered).
the bit the sameas the depth of the table
sa\rn notches.This shoulil be just d.c!
enoughLocleanoffthe %,i'andstmighten
up tne un€venedges.
AficrcuttiDgtheguirle barto fit the slot.
clamp the bar to the bottomofthe feather
board. Lirre it up parallel \\'ith the feath-
ercdcnd (thatis, ata{S"angletotheedge)
andoY.r the adjustment siots.
Using th€ slots as a gauge, mark thcir
locations on the gaide bar $ith aD awl.
Unclamp and ddll a ri dia. counteFnrk
and% -dia. holecentered on the suidc bar
at €achnar.kedlocation.
Aftef the tlvo holcs are dfilled, cut a
v':stopped slot (ker0 cenrered on the
holesallthe $ar throush thegrrntebar:To
do this. clampthr piece do$n to the ,qa$
tablc so it\ (idth is ceDtered r.isht over
the blad€.TtrensloNlvraise rhebl;de until
therc's an S lons dot. Finallr', th€ bar can
be cut to 12"long.
Assemblethc featherboar-il with a
couple 2" long, '/r"-din. flathead mache
screws,Nrshefs, andlving nuts_Tighte.
ingthe wingnuts causesthescre$s to stidc
u! inlo tlre countersink. -{s the! sliile up.
the '/"" slot is openedand sDreadsthc bar
aohol.lit secLr.ll in the miter gauge stor.
Oneprcblem I discolered\as that thc
,.t.>4 --'
,,/
-/-
"i""3J3"
Tin Dni,
IlbatJland. IIlt shi rytan
t'diror's No1.r ll'e tti.d lIt. Dtd;" s
netho.la"d it otks liN. Rtt wt.l liket.)
.(l(l a cadrl. .( tiors: Be &t..tnt itot to
sratt ard stopthectt toa.lio. into th. table
sant ,()tt:hfsta at ta ooto. llt( cane$.
tStophl.ckscanldb. attdch.tltr th. feie
topt?.ent this).Ar.l l iththeErllish IIitll
Ldrt.nt, lhe ttt is h.ijtlJtuttcd il rrd
lrdnt. R. srrc to hal.la" ft.rrcL as n
'rdtet hit ,r(r "o\li
it out n'ith a p€ncil. Thenclampa
temporarl guide boardto the line anil cul
ilith a backsaw along the board until
therc'sa %"-deepkelf in ihc work sufacc.
Next flip the piece oler and drill a
1vr'-dia. filger hoic centered on the
s oole:}ndaboutll"fi.om the kef Thehole
makes it easicr-to hold and romole rhe
workpieceandhelpsclearout sawdLNtbe
lh. crd 0tai .
SENDIN YOUI IDIAS
olhef
teadetsol Woadsmith, ssnd your idea tol
Waodsnih,rips & Techniqu€s,2200cand
Ave.,DesMoines.
?
lowa 50312.
We pay aminimum
of $r0lortips,and$15or
mo.elor special
lschniques
(thal afeaccepted
sxplana-
lion ol your idea.lf a skelchis needed. sendtt
alongiws
Then scrc$ a block to thc botom ofthe
jisto clampit in a vise.l.'inal\,, cut apiece
lldrawa new one.
WooDsMrrH
BOTTOMVIEW
scREwBrocK
t\ Y
To cut the 45"ke|f in the work sur.face,
tust lar..
ll you dlikelosharcawoodwo4(inglipwith
rorpub
icalion).Pease giveacomplet€
72784011.004.png
HOWTOGETA SHARPEDGEON A BORINGBIT
rorstnerbits can dothingsnootherbit can
do.Forexample,ifyou it'antlo d llahole
at an angle (aven a vel.v steep angle),a
Forstner bit \rill do the job.
If you rvant to drill olerlappins holes
(forroushinsoutanoftise, forexample),a
Fo$tnerbit is the oneto choose.Oa ifyou
needtodrilla flat-botton€dhole,orifyou
haveto drill into end srain or wild sain
ThercasonForstnerbits canaccomplish
these tasks rvhen other bits can't is be
causethe rim, rather lhan the center
point, suides the bii through the wood.
Althoughthere is a smallce.ter point in
ihe cutting head, it's used only to position
the bit at the stadins location.It playsno
role in suidins the bit through the \rood.
The rim scor€sthe circumferenceofthe
holebeingdrilled. Th€n, \'hile the rim is
holdins th€ bit in position,iwo chisel-like
lifiers (iadiaiing from the centerofthe bit)
parearvaythe woodwith a planinsaction.
a HEAt-SlNsltrvE Brr
But wiih all it's abilities,l'orstner bits arc
norwiihout problens. Th€ mostseriousis
its tendencyto overheat.
Fo$tner bils were developedfor us€in
a bit b.ace (hand brace),andnot intended
for tbe speedofa rnotor-drilen drill press.
Sincethe €ntire dn of the bit is in full
contactwith lhe wall ofthe hole,l'ontner
bits must be run at slowsp€eds (less than
400rpm) or they will overheat.
Ifthe bit is mn too fasi, a tremendous
anount ofheat will be built up asth€ rin
Irlbsagainstthe circunferenceofthe hole.
This heat can draw the temper from the
steelvery quickly (Ifihe steelturns blue.
the temper is dralvn.)
Oncethe temper is drawn, the rim s'ill
be ioo soft to hold a sharp cutting edse.
Then it's usually/o/ced into the wood,or
the speed isincreased
for y€ars, I'verccently
switched
to a pair ofJapanese
{ater slipstones
in 1000 and
4000 srit. Thesestonesm€a-
sure2"x4". (See Sou-Ices,
page
24.) B€causethey're larger
than the lndia/Arkansas
ston€s,
feelingfortheonginal
be!'elis morediffrcult.But I
to ,rak€ it cut,which
If the bit is sharpened, it will srtce
tirough th€ wood vith ven, liitle resis-
tanc€ ($hich rcducesheat build'up). And
insteadof clogging,it will actually produce
lons dbbons ofshavings, see pholo.
TOOTSNEIDID TOTsI{ARP'NING
However,all it takes is one look at th€
businessend of a Forstner bit to realize
that there'sno way to shapen ii. Thenrn
can only be reachedfrom tle insjde,and
the lifte.s are impossibl€to set to.
Okay, it's no se$et that sharyeninga
Forstner bit is trickier than sharpening
other€dgedtools. Bul it canbedone.And
with the help of a few tricks and the dght
equipment, it's really pretty easy.I use
two smallcarver'sslipstones (mediurn and
fine), and a sirnple jis to hold the bit.
sl,rpsroNEs-The slipsI usearemadefor
sharpenins carving tools: a small (r/' x
2%") medium-grit lndia and a hard Ar-
kansasmakea nicecombinationfor sharp
ening Forstner bits. (S€e Souces, page
%.)The Indiais used in the initial stagesto
rough down the edse, and then the hard
Arkansasis usedio honethe eds€.
Although I've usedthe India/Arkansas
find rnyself putting up with this incon-
venience because the Japanese stones
cut faster and producea better edse.
HoLDINGJIc, To help hold the Forstner
bit at the proper angle rvhen using the
stones,I usea simplehoidingjig. This jig
isn'r fancli it'sjust a piece of scrapwith a
holethe sizeof ihe bit shank,seeFig. 1
ShopNote: Cut a kerfthmueh the hole
so when the jig is placed in a vis€, tle
amount of pressure on the bit ca be ad'
justed by looseningortighteningthe vise.
Thisrdll allo{ thebit to spinfreeor beheld
secuely in the hole.
SHATPENINGTHEI.I'TTRS
Once the sharyenins equipment is col-
lected,I start *orking on the tifters.
SHARPEN
jusl mins the bit.
Anoth€r problem with Forstner bits is
that thelre very poor at ejecring wood
chips, especiallywhen tbey're not sharp.
The ejectionthroats t€nd to closandthen
it's difficult to feedthe bit into the wood.
When this happens,the most common
soiution is to "jog" the bit d ll a little,
lift up, drill a little more, lift up. If the
clogging is r€ally bad, you have to stop ihe
ddll press anduse an awl or smallnail to
clearthe ejectionthroats.
Bui, there'sa better solution. Forstner
bils clog for one .eason: they'r€ not shary.
lnfact, evena brandnewbit isn't assharT
LTFTERBACK.The back ofthe
lifter has to be flat and smooth before the
bevelcanbe sharpe.ed. The first stepin
flattenins the back requires getting the bit
into position sothe backofthe lift€rcan be
reachedcomfortably,see Fis. 1
I find that secuinsthejisin avisesothe
bit is parallel to the floor and pointing to
the left feels comfofiable.Thjs puts the
back of th€ lifier in line with my am for a
WOODSMTTH
Sbarpstuq : ForstnerBits
stones
72784011.005.png
sharpeningmotion.
Oncethe throat is liDedup comfortab\',
siart Nith the medium gfil stone io
smooth the back. Rock th€ stone on the
back of the lifter until il lesls flat. Then
stfokc backandfofth, seefig. 2. The kcJ
is to be consistentin the strcking motioD.
Keep sloning until the backs of both
lifters looksmoothandflat. Thenswitch to
a fine honins stone and so thlough th.
REItovElHE NrRt) EDGE.As the lifter
bevelishoned,arvne edgeislaisedonthe
back (flat) snl€.To removethe wire edsc,
positionthejis andbil asthev Nere uhen
flatienins the back, see rig. L Then lerf,
lishtly rubthelinc honinsstone acrossthe
backlo hoDeoff lhe irc e.lge.
s}IARPINIHI NIM
Thenextstepissharpenins tber.ims.If lhe
bit is in really bad s}ape, or has sloppy
sdndins fron the faclor\',the inside con-
toul.ofthe n hasto b€ shapedbeforeit
can be sharyened.This requiresa rather
unorthodo\ technique.
I scrap€the edge witb the sharpened
edgeofa triangllarfile. T0 dotbis,lishtly
srindthethree sidesat the iipofthefileto
makc three shary cutling cdges.Because
the nle slccl is considerablyhadar than
the l'orstn€f bit, lhis tool wilt actuallr
stoneon the insidc bcyel of the rim, sce
Fig- 5- To gel a consistcnthoningaDgle,
slide the end of the stoDein so it rests oD
the bit's ceDter point.
NoN ir's just a maticr of holding thc
stone stcadt an.i rotatirg the bil so the
entire edge of the m rubs asainst the
edgeofthe slipslone.Just spin the bil s'iUr
wlren the insi.le of the rim is unifonnly
smooth,fcpcal the process onthe opposite
im- Then switch lo the fine stoneto hone
sH.rripE)ir,IlTER r]EVELS.When both
lifterbacksarc flat andmirrorsnooth, the
lifter b€velscanbe sharyened.At first, it
may look like this pari of the lifter is iln-
possibletoget to. But there'sasmallclear
ance nolcb in the dm ight Dext to the
lifter This rotch alloirs enoushclearance
forthe stoneto rcstflat onth€ ]ifterbelel.
To sha$en the lifter belel, I begin bI
clamping thejigin the rise sothe bit isheld
almost upright, seeFig. 3. Then place the
n€dium grit slip stone on thc belel and
feel for th€ orisinal angle.
Uhen vou find the angle. rub the stone
back and folth. (Althoush it looks like
Jou'll run into the im aSihe stip stoneis
stroked.the angleofthe lifter is suchthat
the stoneis actunl\' sumed up and aral
from the dm, see rig. 3.)
Aftef onelifter is stoned.Iotate the bit
andstore the oppositelifter: 'fhen Iepeat
tne prccess irith Lheline stoneto hone the
lifters to a shary edge.
RErrovE$rnri Et)cE.The last step is to
removethc Nire edgefrom tbe outer sur-
faceof the ln. This takes just a s€cond.
Holdthe faceofthe stoncflushasainst the
side ofihe bit andrclate th€ bit against the
Makesure the stoneis flat on the rim of
the bit. YoLldon't want iL to tilt iI and
create a ncgatile bevel on the outside of
the im. (Ifthe cuttins edseis bc!€leil in,
it will cul a circumfer€ncesnallerthan the
resLof the im - so thc bit \ron't feed.)
rrsT THEEDGE. Oncethe bit is -qharp,
the finaltesl takesplaceonthe ddil pr€ss.
Set il for the siowestspeed possible and
find a pieceof scrap to bore a tesr hole.
The bit should s/ic€ a hole smoothlr-
Nithout clogging.If it s reallr- sharp, ihe
bit \'ill cut a contiDuousstip of shalings
- elen in naple as sho\rn in the photo.
No$t horvcouldanronecall that bofins?
Nos' hoki the bit ir onc handandusea
sharp corner of the file to make several
smoothstrokes along the entirc dm, see
Fig. 4. It's easiertha. it soundsto (aNe
thc inside b€lel to a smoothshape-
sTo).-INcTHFiRIM.Tbe techniqueI useto
sharpenthe rim is torotat€ the bitagainst
the roundededgeof ure slip stone.Put the
bitin thejis, andclanpthejigin aviseso
it's roughll at a 45"ansle. Make sufe the
Now place the round cdse of the slip
|ril
ls parulkl h a nolloltl sh-okingnotion.
Thurlb ptessue slead.ieshit.
::xi,xi
iit::j"i?,:i:,
4 Flott?" the Liftcthock l,A strckirn th.
- norp llor ugoinsllh, stl{ute. Cat
tinre till aLltool ,1orksaft ga e, then
hancto ),ntutJin;sh nith fine stone.
a Sho4rc, the ttler bet:ptb! stmkins
9 thestow xhiLenldi'tti)ring theonp-
ilLalbercL.Clearancenotcftolloa,sdcc€ss
r:ithort c. tlerg..riitg tirt edse.
::l#:y
gte. Rotat...tile and bit in oppositedi.
rcctia8 to scftpe a srnoth be9t.
:i;,:I:
]'i "",;
:"
1 Shoqret i^ith of n t L! trtotinq thz
r hi! (h"l,l l!!tel! in thpjttt oqtinst the
edseof the sta e. Use the ce tetpoint ta
pilDt th. hit o the end at'tht stoue.
6 :; ::,:;:;,,!;,;:
;x ; y;"
.foce afthe fi, Ii1htlltasoitstthe sto e.Be
catef l iat to ha,c n trcgatirc be"-eL.
WooDsr{rrH
natxral back-and-fol1h
I r::i:::
":,i'
:':,
:i';,'
:;:
4 ::5"
:rii:
72784011.001.png
Zgłoś jeśli naruszono regulamin