zx-11.pdf

11•1

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

Contents

Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting 23

Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment 8

Bonnet lock - removal and refitting 10

Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting 9

Central locking components - removal and refitting 17

Centre console - removal and refitting 27

Door - removal, refitting and adjustment 11

Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting 12

Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting 13

Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting 14

Electric window components - general information 18

Exterior mirrors and associated components - removal and refitting . 19

Facia panel assembly - removal and refitting

Interior trim - removal and refitting 26

Maintenance - bodywork and underframe 2

Maintenance - upholstery and carpets 3

Major body damage - repair 5

Minor body damage - repair 4

Rear bumper - removal and refitting 7

Rear quarter window (three-door models) - removal and refitting .. 21

Seat belt components - removal and refitting 25

Seats - removal and refitting 24

Sunroof - general information 22

Tailgate and support struts - removal and refitting 15

Tailgate lock components - removal and refitting 16

Underbody and general body check See Chapter 1

Windscreen, tailgate and fixed rear quarter window glass -

general information

Front bumper - removal and refitting

General information

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with

some experience

Fairly difficult, suitable

for competent DIY

mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

experienced DIY

mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY

or professional

1 General information

important also to keep watch on those parts

of the vehicle not immediately visible, for

instance the underside, inside all the wheel

arches, and the lower part of the engine

compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of

water, from a hose. This will remove all the

loose solids which may have stuck to the

vehicle. It is important to flush these off in

such a way as to prevent grit from scratching

the finish. The wheel arches and underframe

need washing in the same way, to remove any

accumulated mud, which will retain moisture

and tend to encourage rust. Paradoxically

enough, the best time to clean the underframe

and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the

mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet

weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of

large accumulations automatically, and this is

a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a

good idea to have the whole of the

underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,

engine compartment included, so that a

thorough inspection can be carried out to see

what minor repairs and renovations are

necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at

many garages, and is necessary for the

removal of the accumulation of oily grime,

which sometimes is allowed to become thick

in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are

not available, there are some excellent grease

solvents available which can be brush-

applied; the dirt can then be simply hosed off.

Note that these methods should not be used

on vehicles with wax-based underbody

protective coating, or the coating will be

removed. Such vehicles should be inspected

annually, preferably just prior to Winter, when

the underbody should be washed down, and

any damage to the wax coating repaired.

Ideally, a completely fresh coat should be

applied. It would also be worth considering

the use of such wax-based protection for

injection into door panels, sills, box sections,

etc, as an additional safeguard against rust

damage, where such protection is not

provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear

finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish

will give added protection against chemical

pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen has

dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher

combination to restore the brilliance of the

shine. This requires a little effort, but such

dulling is usually caused because regular

washing has been neglected. Care needs to

be taken with metallic paintwork, as special

non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

avoid damage to the finish. Always check that

the door and ventilator opening drain holes

and pipes are completely clear, so that water

can be drained out. Brightwork should be

treated in the same way as paintwork.

Windscreens and windows can be kept clear

of the smeary film which often appears, by the

use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use

any form of wax or other body or chromium

polish on glass.

The bodyshell is made of pressed-steel

sections, and is available in both three- and

five-door Hatchback versions. Most

components are welded together, but some

use is made of structural adhesives; the front

wings are bolted on.

The bonnet, door, and some other

vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated

metal, and are further protected by being

coated with an anti-chip primer prior to being

sprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,

mainly in the interior, but also in exterior

components. The front and rear bumpers,

front grille and tailgate assembly are injection-

moulded from a synthetic material which is

very strong and yet light. Plastic components

such as wheel arch liners are fitted to the

underside of the vehicle, to improve the

body's resistance to corrosion.

2 Maintenance -

bodywork and underframe

The general condition of a vehicle's

bodywork is the one thing that significantly

affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but

needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after

minor damage, can lead quickly to further

deterioration and costly repair bills. It is

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

3 Maintenance -

upholstery and carpets

the metal to rust, a different repair technique

is required. Remove any loose rust from the

bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then

apply rust-inhibiting paint to prevent the

formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber

or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with

bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can

be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a

very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow

scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the

scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth

cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the

finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep

it across the surface of the stopper-paste in

the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of

the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The

scratch can now be painted over as described

earlier in this Section.

Repairs of rust holes or gashes in

bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding

"sound" bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a

wire brush on a power drill. If these are not

available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will

do the job most effectively. With the paint

removed, you will be able to judge the severity

of the corrosion, and therefore decide

whether to renew the whole panel (if this is

possible) or to repair the affected area. New

body panels are not as expensive as most

people think, and it is often quicker and more

satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt

to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the

original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg

headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a

hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and

any other metal badly affected by corrosion.

Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in

order to create a slight depression for the filler

paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the

remaining metal. Paint the affected area with

rust-inhibiting paint, if the back of the rusted

area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This

can be achieved by the use of aluminium or

plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting, is probably the best material to use

for a large hole. Cut a piece to the

approximate size and shape of the hole to be

filled, then position it in the hole so that its

edges are below the level of the surrounding

bodywork. It can be retained in position by

several blobs of filler paste around its

periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim

it to the approximate size and shape required,

then pull off the backing paper (if used) and

stick the tape over the hole; it can be

overlapped if the thickness of one piece is

insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the

tape with the handle of a screwdriver or

similar, to ensure that the tape is securely

attached to the metal underneath.

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free

of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them

from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,

and make quite sure they are dry before

refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be

kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they

do become stained (which can be more

apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a

little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to

scour the grime out of the grain of the

material. Do not forget to keep the headlining

clean in the same way as the upholstery.

When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,

do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.

Excessive damp could get into the seams and

padded interior, causing stains, offensive

odours or even rot.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle's

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to

pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork

almost attains its original shape. There is little

point in trying to restore the original shape

completely, as the metal in the damaged area

will have stretched on impact, and cannot be

reshaped fully to its original contour. It is

better to bring the level of the dent up to a

point which is about 3 mm below the level of

the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the

dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth

trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the

dent is accessible, it can be hammered out

gently from behind, using a mallet with a

wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,

hold a suitable block of wood firmly against

the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact

from the hammer blows and thus prevent a

large area of the bodywork from being

"belled-out".

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some

other factor making it inaccessible from

behind, a different technique is called for. Drill

several small holes through the metal inside

the area - particularly in the deeper section.

Then screw long self-tapping screws into the

holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good

purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be

pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads

of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from

an inch or so of the surrounding "sound"

bodywork. This is accomplished most easily

by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a

power drill, although it can be done just as

effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive

paper. To complete the preparation for filling,

score the surface of the bare metal with a

screwdriver or the tang of a file, or

alternatively, drill small holes in the affected

area. This will provide a really good "key" for

the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

If the inside of the vehicle

gets wet accidentally, it is

worthwhile taking some

trouble to dry it out properly,

particularly where carpets are involved.

Do not leave oil or electric heaters

inside the vehicle for this purpose.

4 Minor body damage - repair

Note: For more detailed information about

bodywork repair, Haynes Publishing produce

a book by Lindsay Porter called "The Car

Bodywork Repair Manual". This incorporates

information on such aspects as rust treatment,

painting and glass-fibre repairs, as well as

details on more ambitious repairs involving

welding and panel beating.

Repairs of minor scratches in

bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,

repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of

the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a

very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint

from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding

bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with

clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers

of paint until the surface of the paint in the

scratch is level with the surrounding

paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two

weeks to harden, then blend it into the

surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch

area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine

cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing

Bodywork repairs - filling and

respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash

repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits

which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of

resin hardener are best for this type of repair.

A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will

be found invaluable for imparting a smooth

and well-contoured finish to the surface of the

filler.

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully

(follow the maker's instructions on the pack),

otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too

slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler

paste to the prepared area; draw the

applicator across the surface of the filler to

achieve the correct contour and to level the

surface. As soon as a contour that

approximates to the correct one is achieved,

stop working the paste - if you carry on too

long, the paste will become sticky and begin

to "pick-up" on the applicator. Continue to

add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute

intervals, until the level of the filler is just

proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.

From then on, progressively-finer grades of

abrasive paper should be used, starting with a

40-grade production paper, and finishing with

a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap

the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,

or wooden block - otherwise the surface of

the filler will not be completely flat. During the

smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-

dry paper should be periodically rinsed in

water. This will ensure that a very smooth

finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the "dent" should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in

turn should be encircled by the finely

"feathered" edge of the good paintwork.

Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all

of the dust produced by the rubbing-down

operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in

the surface of the filler. Repair these

imperfections with fresh filler paste or

bodystopper, and once more smooth the

surface with abrasive paper. Repeat this

spray-and-repair procedure until you are

satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the

feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect.

Clean the repair area with clean water, and

allow to dry fully.

fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)

will also need to be masked off. Use genuine

masking tape, and several thicknesses of

newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area

(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is

mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick

coat of primer; the thickness should be built

up using several thin layers of paint, rather

than one thick one. Using 400-grade wet-and-

dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer

until it is really smooth. While doing this, the

work area should be thoroughly doused with

water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically

rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying

on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.

Start spraying at one edge of the repair area,

and then, using a side-to-side motion, work

until the whole repair area and about 2 inches

of the surrounding original paintwork is

covered. Remove all masking material 10 to

15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of

paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator, or

a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of

the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,

apply wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg

bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major

body panels), rectification of more serious

damage to such items has become a matter

of either entrusting repair work to a specialist

in this field, or renewing complete

components. Repair of such damage by the

DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the

cost of the equipment and materials required

for effecting such repairs. The basic technique

involves making a groove along the line of the

crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a

power drill. The damaged part is then welded

back together, using a hot-air gun to heat up

and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.

Any excess plastic is then removed, and the

area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is

important that a filler rod of the correct plastic

is used, as body components can be made of

a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,

ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY

owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair

material. Once mixed in equal proportions,

this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork

filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually

cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for

sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it

with epoxy filler, he will be left with the

problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing

which is compatible with the type of plastic

used. At one time, the use of a universal paint

was not possible, owing to the complex range

of plastics encountered in body component

applications. Standard paints, generally

speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber

satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to

obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which

consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer

and coloured top coat. Full instructions are

normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the

method of use is to first apply the pre-primer

to the component concerned, and allow it to

dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is

applied, and left to dry for about an hour

before finally applying the special-coloured

top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured

component, where the paint will flex with the

plastic or rubber, a property that standard

paint does not normally posses.

5 Major body damage - repair

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it

means that complete new panels will need

welding-in, and this is best left to

professionals. If the damage is due to impact,

it will also be necessary to check completely

the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can

only be carried out accurately by a Citroen

dealer using special jigs. If the body is left

misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the car

will not handle properly, and secondly, uneven

stresses will be imposed on the steering,

suspension and possibly transmission,

causing abnormal wear, or complete failure,

particularly to such items as the tyres.

6 Front bumper -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.

2 Remove both the right- and left-hand

headlights as described in Chapter 12.

3 Working through the headlamp apertures,

slacken and remove the four bolts (two on

either side) securing the upper ends of the

bumper to the vehicle.

4 Slacken and remove the five bolts securing

the bottom edge of the bumper to the vehicle.

5 Working from underneath the vehicle, undo

the two bolts (one on either end) securing the

lower ends of the bumper to the vehicle.

Where necessary, disconnect the wiring

connectors from the front foglamps.

6 Release both the left- and right-hand ends

of the bumper, and pull the bumper away

from the vehicle in a forwards direction.

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal

procedure, ensuring that the bumper

mounting bolts are securely tightened.

If bodystopper is used, it can

be mixed with cellulose

thinners, to form a really thin

paste which is ideal for filling

small holes.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out

in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free

atmosphere. This condition can be created

artificially if you have access to a large indoor

working area, but if you are forced to work in

the open, you will have to pick your day very

carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing

the floor in the work area with water will help

to settle the dust which would otherwise be in

the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined

to one body panel, mask off the surrounding

panels; this will help to minimise the effects of

a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

7.2 Unscrew the wheel brace retaining clip

from its mounting stud in the luggage

compartment

7.3 Peel back the carpet to gain access to

the rear bumper retaining bolts (arrowed)

7.5 Slacken and remove the bolts securing

the rear bumper to the wheel arch liners

(arrowed) ...

7 Rear bumper -

removal and refitting

the luggage compartment carpet, then

slacken and remove the four bumper retaining

bolts (see illustration).

4 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands.

5 Working from underneath the vehicle, undo

the two bolts (one either side) securing the

ends of the bumper to the wheel arch liner

(see illustration).

6 Undo the two bolts securing the bumper to

the underside of the vehicle, then release the

left- and right-hand ends of the bumpers from

their mountings, and pull the bumper away

from the vehicle in a rearwards direction (see

illustrations).

Refitting

7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal

procedure, ensuring that all disturbed

fasteners are securely tightened.

pipe from its non-return valve on the right-

hand side. Undo the bonnet retaining bolts

and, with the help of an assistant, carefully lift

the bonnet clear. Store the bonnet out of the

way in a safe place (see illustrations).

3 Inspect the bonnet hinges for signs of

wear and free play at the pivots, and if

necessary renew. Each hinge is secured to

the body by two pivot bolts. On refitting,

apply a smear of multi-purpose grease to the

shanks of the hinge pivot bolts, and tighten

them securely.

Removal

1 Remove the luggage compartment rear trim

panels (where fitted) as described in Sec-

tion 26.

2 On five-door models, remove the wheel

brace, and unscrew the wheel brace clip from

the rear right-hand corner of the luggage

compartment (see illustration). Remove the

retaining nut and clip from the same position

on the left-hand side.

3 Release the retaining clips and peel back

Refitting and adjustment

4 With the aid of an assistant, offer up the

bonnet and loosely fit the retaining bolts. Align

the hinges with the marks made on removal,

then tighten the retaining bolts securely, and

reconnect the windscreen washer supply

pipe.

5 Close the bonnet, and check for alignment

with the adjacent panels. If necessary,

slacken the hinge bolts and re-align the

bonnet to suit. Once the bonnet is correctly

aligned, tighten the hinge bolts to the

specified torque.

6 Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, check

that the bonnet fastens and releases in a

satisfactory manner. If adjustment is

necessary, slacken the bonnet lock retaining

bolts, and adjust the position of the lock to

suit. Once the lock is operating correctly,

securely tighten its retaining bolts.

8 Bonnet - removal,

refitting and adjustment

7.6a ... and to the vehicle body ...

Removal

1 Open the bonnet and have an assistant

support it. Using a pencil or felt tip pen, mark

the outline of each bonnet hinge relative to the

bonnet, to use as a guide on refitting.

2 Disconnect the windscreen washer supply

7.6b ... then remove the bumper from the

8.2a Slacken and remove the bonnet-to-

8.2b ... then, with the aid of an assistant,

lift off the bonnet

rear of the vehicle

hinge retaining bolts ...

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

9.5 Removing the bonnet release lever

10.1 Undo the three retaining screws, and

10.2 Unclip the release cable (A), then

undo the retaining bolts (B) and remove

the bonnet lock

retaining bolts

remove the plastic cover to gain access to

the bonnet lock

9 Bonnet release cable -

removal and refitting

securely tighten its retaining bolts and refit the

lock cover.

10 Refit the lower facia panel, and secure it in

position by rotating its fasteners through a

quarter of a turn.

6 Check that the bonnet fastens and releases

in a satisfactory manner. If adjustment is

necessary, slacken the bonnet lock retaining

bolts, and adjust the position of the lock to

suit. Once the lock is operating correctly,

securely tighten its retaining bolts and refit the

lock cover.

Removal

1 Open the bonnet. Undo the three retaining

screws and remove the plastic cover to gain

full access to the bonnet lock.

2 Unclip the bonnet release outer cable from

the lock bracket, then release the inner cable

from the lock lever.

3 Work back along the length of the cable,

noting its correct routing, and free it from the

retaining clips and ties. Tie a length of string

to the end of the cable.

4 From inside the vehicle, release the panel

fasteners by rotating them through a quarter

of a turn, and remove the driver's side lower

facia panel.

5 Slacken and remove the two retaining bolts,

then free the bonnet release lever from its

retaining bracket, and withdraw the cable

(see illustration). Once the cable is free, untie

the string and leave it in position in the

vehicle; the string can then be used to draw

the new cable back into position.

Refitting

6 Tie the inner end of the string to the end of

the cable, then use the string to draw the

bonnet release cable through into the engine

compartment. Once the cable is through,

untie the string.

7 Manoeuvre the bonnet release lever back

into position, and securely tighten its retaining

bolts.

8 Ensure the cable is correctly routed, and

secured to all the relevant retaining clips.

Connect the end of the inner cable to the lock

lever, then clip the outer cable into position in

the lock bracket.

9 Operate the bonnet release lever, and

check that the lock operates smoothly,

without any sign of undue resistance. Check

that the bonnet fastens and releases in a

satisfactory manner. If adjustment is

necessary, slacken the bonnet lock retaining

bolts, and adjust the position of the lock to

suit. Once the lock is operating correctly,

10 Bonnet lock -

removal and refitting

11 Door - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Removal

1 Open the bonnet. Undo the three retaining

screws and remove the plastic cover to gain

full access to the bonnet lock (see

illustration). Mark the outline of the bonnet

lock on the body, to use as a guide on

refitting.

2 Unclip the bonnet release outer cable from

the lock bracket, then release the inner cable

from the lock lever (see illustration).

3 Undo the two retaining bolts, and remove

the lock assembly from the vehicle.

Refitting

4 Refit the lock to the vehicle, aligning it with

the marks made on removal, and securely

tighten its retaining bolts.

5 Connect the end of the inner cable to the

lock lever, then clip the outer cable into

position in the lock bracket.

Removal

1 Open the door, to gain access to the wiring

connector which is fitted to the front edge of

the door.

2 Where a circular wiring connector is used,

unscrew the connector locking ring until its

tab is located between the lugs on the

connector, then disconnect the wiring

connector from the door (see illustration).

Where a rectangular connector is used, pull

out the locking clip to release it, then

disconnect the connector from the door.

3 Undo the two bolts securing the check link

to the pillar (see illustration). On models

where the bolts are not accessible, drive out

the check link roll pin using a hammer and

punch.

4 Loosen the two hinge pin grub bolts. With

the aid of an assistant, lift the door to release

11.2 On circular wiring connectors,

unscrew the locking ring until its tab is

located between the connector lugs

(arrowed), then pull it away from the door

11.3 Undo the check link retaining

bolts...

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