Kalmbach - Model Railroader - Weathering Tips And Techniques.pdf - Kalmbach - pigur7

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Weathering tips

and techniques

Weathering

PHOTOS BY JIM FORBES

I read an article on weathering in

which the author stated that every-

thing should be weathered. My reaction

was like that of most beginners: Why

weather anything? I felt my cars and

locomotives looked quite realistic out of

the box, so how could gunking them up

help? I also worried that I’d ruin a per-

fectly good model.

Why weather?

“Weathering” is a catchall phrase

used to describe finishing a model to

duplicate the effects of time and use.

Since it doesn’t actually rain, snow, or

beat down with relentless desert sun on

our layouts (at least I hope you don’t

have those problems!) we need to resort

to other materials and techniques to

duplicate the ravages of Mother Nature

in our plastic and plaster worlds.

But don’t fall into the trap of weath-

ering every model to the same degree.

This is as bad for realism as no weath-

ering at all. Instead, weather models to

reflect various ages, maintenance prac-

tices, and locales.

For example, older cars should be

weathered more than newly painted

cars or brand-new equipment. Automo-

biles in daily use may look worn but

they’re rarely rusted through, especially

today’s autos which feature paints

designed to prevent rust and corrosion.

A wash of Polly Scale Grimy Black (9 parts

Polly S airbrush thinner to 1 part paint) pro-

duces a basic road grime. Cover the entire

model so the paint won’t dry spotty.

Pastel chalks, available from art supply

stores, are great for rust or heavy road dirt.

Apply the chalk with a brush. I add more

than I need, then brush away the excess.

If the car looks too filthy, simply moisten

your thumb and rub it along the side of the

car in a vertical motion. This removes most

of the chalk from the model.

Combining these techniques – a wash of

Grimy Black and Rust paints, followed by

rust-colored chalks – makes a night and day

difference between the roofs of these cars.

Frequently I’ll combine all three (air-

brush, wash, and chalk) on one model.

The most basic weathering is elimi-

nating the plastic sheen from models.

This single step does more to increase

realism than anything. Painting all your

trucks and wheels flat Grimy Black also

helps since it eliminates that “floating

on air” look shiny trucks impart.

The difference between an unweath-

ered and weathered model is really star-

tling, as the lead photo shows. The

photos and captions explain how I used

washes and powdered pastel chalks to

age some N scale freight cars. The same

techniques can be applied to buildings,

roads, vehicles, locomotives, and even

figures. Now get dirty.

Weathering techniques

I do a lot of weathering with an air-

brush but I also use washes and chalk.

B ack when I got started in the hobby

freight car weathering

Easy ways to make rolling stock

look more realistic

In September 1948, an aging New Haven 2-8-2 hauls a peddler

freight toward its next destination on John Pryke’s HO scale layout.

With a little prototype knowledge and an airbrush, John can apply

weathering in a matter of minutes.

By John Pryke • Photos by the author

required to spray the paint through a fine airbrush tip with-

out clogging. Weathering color choice is also dictated by a

railroad’s operating region. The color you choose to represent

dirt and dust on a car’s trucks and underbody is based on the

area of the country that you model or on a car’s home road.

Table 2 shows some suggested truck and underbody colors

for cars from different locations in North America.

degree of realism, but also tend to be time-consuming.

If your layout has a large number of freight cars, you

probably don’t want to spend an entire evening weathering

just one piece of rolling stock. As an alternative, I’ve developed

a quick and dirty weathering method that requires only basic

airbrushing skills and a little knowledge of the prototype.

Quick and dirty weathering

By using an airbrush with a fine tip and readily available

enamel or acrylic model paints, you can weather one car in a

few minutes or a batch of ten cars in less than an hour. It is

important to follow each step in its proper sequence, as some

prototype weathering (faded paint on side panels, soot on

vertical side ribs) takes place over a long period, while other

weathering (ballast dust on the underbody and accumulated

Color selection

There are many paints on the market made specifically for

weathering. Table 1 lists the water-based acrylic and organic-

solvent-based enamel paints I used to duplicate the weather-

ing pattern shown in fig. 1. It also lists the dilution formula

M any freight car weathering techniques produce a high

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