Cabinet - Curved bedside cabinets.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - michalxmen

Curved bedside cabinets

Most bedside cabinets are a rather dull design, being simply a

box-like shape. When the below bedside cabinets were designed,

we wanted to subtly change the shape and feel of the cabinets, b

without removing any of the functionality.

The basic requirement was to provide two large drawers (for knickknacks of

additional clothing), and a shelf area for putting extra books, or anything else that is

considered a bedside necessity. In order to change the shape slightly, it was decided to

make the front of the cabinet curved, rather than producing the more normal flat

drawer fronts. Before anyone throws up their hands in disgust, thinking that we used

some sort of steamer to bend the wood, don't worry...we cheated! No wood has been

bent: instead, it has simply been planed and sanded into this shape.

Construction

Tools required: Plane (or belt sander), sander (for finishing), drill, jigsaw, circular saw

(or router or some other device used for making a groove -- this tool is not completely

necessary, as the groove can be avoided).

Wood required

Description Qty Width Length Thickness

Main Unit

Sides 2 16" 20" 3/4"

Top 1 18 1/2" 24" 3/4"

Shelf 1 17" 22" 3/4"

Front base 1 1 1.2" 22" 2 1/4"

Back panel 1 21" 20" 1/4" (plywood)

Shelf runners 4 3/4" 14 1/2" 1/2"

Draw Units

Sides

4 5 1/2" 14 1/2" 3/4"

Back

2 5 1/2" 18 3/4" 3/4"

Front

2 6

2 1/4"

Base

2 14

1/4" plywood

Note: the drawer unit quantities include the wood needed to build both drawers. Also, to create some of

the widths described above, it will be necessary to join two or more planks of wood together: refer to

the dowel joint in the Joints section.

The Main Unit

Firstly, the two side pieces should be cut to

shape in the following way. The front edge of

each side piece should have a notch cut out of it that is 3/4" deep and runs

from the bottom of the side piece up to a height of 13 1/2" (see diagram

on left). This notch is taken out to accommodate the drawers, thus

ensuring that the drawers fit flush to the unit.

A groove should then be cut unto the inside of each side unit, from front to back, at a

depth of 1/4". This groove should start 13 1/2" from the bottom of each piece and

should be 3/4" wide. This groove is used to slot in the shelf (see joints section for

more details on creating a slotted tenon joint).

Another slot should be cut, from top to bottom of each piece (again, on the inside) that

is 1/4" wide and 1/4" from the back of each side unit. This slot is used to join the back

piece of plywood onto the side pieces. To create this slot you will typically need a

circular saw. However, this can be avoided by simply nailing the back piece onto the

side units, rather than slotting it into place (not as nice, but if it saves you from buying

a circular saw...).

Finally, nail and glue the shelf runners into place: the bottom of the lower runner

should be 4" from the bottom of the side unit, and the lower part of the higher runner

should be 10" from the bottom of the side unit. It is important to ensure that these

runners are level (not sloping towards the front or the back) in order to ensure that the

drawers work correctly.

It is now time to cut the top and the shelf to the correct shape. These should be curved

on one side (the front) and flat on all others. The top should be 16 1/2" deep (from

front to back) at the sides, but in the center it should be a total depth of 18 1/2". Mark

out the two side depths, and the center depth and then sketch out a smooth curve

between these three points. The easiest way to do this is to attach a length of string or

cord to a pencil and then, holding the cord at one fixed point along the center line,

draw the curve. Keep experimenting until the curve makes contact with both side

marks, as well as the mark in the center. Once this curve has been sketched out, cut

the curve using a jigsaw and then sand smooth.

The shelf curve is the same proportions as the top (in order to match neatly). The side

depths should be 15 1/2" and the center should be 17". Again, sketch out this curve

and then cut, using a jigsaw. However, the shelf is slightly more complex than that

and it is necessary to cut a long notch out of each side of the shelf. This notch should

be 1/2" out of each side, and should run from the back to almost the very front of each

side: indeed, up to a point level with the beginning of the curve (see diagram).

Once the shelf has been cut, it is time to make the Front Base unit. This is made out of

a strip of wood 22" long and 1 1/2" wide. Note that this piece of wood is 2 1/4" thick

(commonly made out of three pieces of 3/4" stock glued together. The idea is to make

this piece of wood appear to be curved and this is done by planing (or band sanding)

the wood into a curve that is the full 2 1/4" thick in the center, but only 3/4" thick at

each side. As with the shelf unit, firstly sketch out the curve on the piece of wood.

However, a jigsaw will not be able to cut this piece of wood and instead it should be

planed into a curve. personally, I prefer to use a band sander, but whichever way you

pick, this will take some time!

Once the front base is shaped correctly, all the components for the main unit are ready

and it is now just a matter of gluing them together. Firstly, glue the shelf into place,

followed by the front base unit. I recommend also screwing the shelf into place by

placing a screw through each side piece (this screw hole can then be filled and will be

fairly well hidden). It may also be necessary to use small square triangular pieces to

help attach the front base to the side pieces. Once these pieces are in place, slide the

back sheet of plywood into the back slot, and glue in place. Finally, attach the top

piece, using dowels to attach the top to the side pieces.

The Drawer

Take the side pieces and mark one side of each one as being the inside to save

confusion later. The outside face of each side piece should have a groove just over

3/4" wide cut into it, running along the length of each piece with the lowest point of

the groove being 2" from the bottom of the side piece. This groove should be 1/2"

deep and is for the shelf runners to slide into.

Each side and end piece should then have a 1/4" groove (1/4" wide and deep) cut into

the inside face. This groove should be 1/4" from the bottom of each piece and is to

slot the plywood shelf base into.

Once all of this has bee done, glue and screw the side pieces into the back piece. Note

the side pieces should run the entire length of the drawer, with the back piece being

sandwiched in-between (the total depth of the drawer from front to back, not

including the drawer front, should be 14 1/2"). Once these have been glued and

screwed, slide the plywood base into the groove and glue it in place. Ensure that

everything is square.

To make the curved fronts of the drawer we use the same technique as was used on

the front base. Mark the curve and then use a band sander to round off the wood.

Again, the center of the drawer front should be a depth of 2 1/4" while the two ends

should only be 3/4" deep.

Once this is done, it is time to attach the drawer fronts to the drawer units. To do this,

slide the drawer into the main unit and then place the drawer front carefully on top.

Mark the correct placement of this drawer and the glue and dowel into place. There

should be just room for both drawer fronts to co-exist and it is important to be very

accurate when doing this.

Once done, attach handles to the front of the drawers and then wax everything, with

particular attention being given to the shelf runners.

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