Bench - Outdoor Table and Bench.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - juan1p

OUTDOOR TABLE AND

BENCH

408

MATERIALS LIST--UMBRELLA TABLE AND

BENCH

Key No. Size & Description (use)

A 4 2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 27" cedar (leg)

B 4 1 x 3 x 43 7/8" cedar (apron)

C 1 1 x 5 x 40 7/8" cedar (rail)

D 22 1 x 3 1/8 x 18 15/16" cedar (slats)

E 2 1 x 5 x 40 7/8" cedar (rail)

F 2 1 x 5 x 48 7/8" cedar (stile)

G 16 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 16 1/2" cedar (leg)

H 8 1 x 3 x 12" cedar (apron)

I 8 1 x 3 x 44 7/8" cedar (apron)

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44 1 x 3 1/8 x 9" cedar (slats)

1 x 5 x 9" cedar (rail)

1 x 5 x 48 7/8" cedar (stile)

20 1 x 2 3/4 x 5 1/4" cedar (block)

40 2" No. 8 fh galvanized screw

48 3" No. 8 fh galvanized screw

Making The Parts

The table legs are cut from 4 x 4 stock (or they can be glued

up from thinner material). When using 4 x 4 stock, cut each

leg to rough length. Next, clamp a fence to the band saw

table, and rip the blanks to a 2 3/4 x 2 3/4-in. square (Photo

1). Then clamp the leg to a workbench, and use a razor-

sharp plane to remove the saw marks (Photo 2). Unless

you are very experienced with a hand plane, check the

workpiece frequently as you go. The edges of the leg must

remain square to one another. Remember that you are only

smoothing the surface, so do not remove too much material.

Rip the table leg stock out of a cedar 4 x 4. Clamp a temporary

rip fence to the band saw table to do this.

Clamp a table leg to a benchtop and remove saw marks with a hand

plane. To make a smooth cut, push the plane at an angle.

Use a miter gauge on the band saw to crosscut the leg

blanks to finished dimension (Photo 3).

Since the bench legs are smaller than the table legs, it is a

better use of materials to glue them up from three pieces of

3/4-in.-thick stock. You can simplify the job if you plan to

make the blanks large enough to cut four legs from each

glued-up stack.

410

Crosscut the legs on the band saw. Here, a

shopmade crosscutting table and a miter gauge are

used to make the cut.

Rip and crosscut material for the leg blanks slightly

oversize, then use a foam roller to spread glue on the

mating surfaces of each piece. Assemble the pieces into a

stack, and clamp the pieces together (Photo 4). After about

20 minutes, scrape off the glue that has squeezed from the

joints, then allow the glue to fully set.

For the bench legs, spread glue on 3/4-in.-thick

stock. Lay disposable material under the pieces and

clamp them together.

Now use the table saw to rip the blanks to 21/4 in. wide,

and crosscut the bench legs to finished length.

Lay out the mortise locations in all the legs for the apron

joints. You can speed the process by clamping four legs

together with their ends perfectly aligned. Then, mark

across the stack using a square (Photo 5). Next, use the

router and edge guide to cut the leg mortises (Photo 6). It's

best to use a spiral up-cutting bit in the router because that

type of bit pulls the dust and chips out of the cut, and

reduces the strain on the motor. This also keeps the bit's

cutting edge cooler.

Rip and crosscut the individual bench legs to size, and then clamp

them together. Mark out mortise locations on the legs.

Using a spiral up-cutting bit in a plunge router, cut

the table leg mortises. Two legs clamped together

provide a stable base.

411

Rip and crosscut 1-in.-thick stock for the table and bench

aprons as well as for the top frames and slats. Install dado

blades in the table saw, and then use the miter gauge to

guide the workpiece over the saw blades when cutting

tenons (Photo 7). Note that you can use the rip fence as a

stop to gauge the tenon length. Since the tenons are 1 in.

long, you need to make two passes to complete each

cheek.

Use a dado blade setup in the table saw to cut the tenons on the

apron pieces. Butt each apron to the fence, and make the cut.

Cut the tenons across the width of each workpiece, then

adjust the blade height and move each workpiece over the

blade on edge to cut the shoulder (Photo 8). Clamp each

workpiece upright in a vise and gently round over the

tenon's edges using a wood rasp (Photo 9).

To cut the shoulders on a tenon, stand the apron up,

and hold it firmly to the miter gauge. Butt it to the

fence and make the cut.

Round off a tenon with a rasp. The tenon’s radius matches the radius

left by the spiral up-cutting bit used to cut the mortise.

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