RenfieldRules.pdf

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Renfield PDF Rules.Q
Blaze:
The object of Blaze is to take the most bugs .
Players ante one dollar to begin. The bidding goes
around the table multiple times, until everyone
passes. (You can’t pass and then come back in.)
You are not bidding in dollars, but in bugs.
Whoever bids the highest arranges the Key Cards
and leads the first trick. Play six tricks as usual.
Winning: If the bidder makes his bid in
bugs, he wins the pot. If he does not, he must
match the pot, (or pay some other established
penalty) and the game restarts. If a player folds, he
stays out until someone wins the pot.
About Cheapass Games:
RENFIELD
We here at Cheapass Games are aware of two
basic facts about games: they cost too much, and
they are, at some level, all the same.
If you ignore the clever shapes they come in, the
cheap little plastic pawns are an interchangeable part
of most of the board games in your house. So are the
dice, the money, the counters, and just about every
disposable spare part. These parts can account for as
much as 75% of a game’s production cost, and that
cost gets handed to you.
If you had your choice, you’d probably invest a
little bit of money in one good set of gaming para-
phernalia instead of twenty crappy ones, and then just
buy the new part of every “new” game. Yet most game
companies insist on selling you the whole package
every time; it’s a little like bundling a can opener with
every can of beans.
Cheapass Games come packaged with the bare
essentials: boards, cards, and rulebooks. If you need
anything else, we’ll tell you. And it’s probably some-
thing that you can scrounge from a game you already
have, or buy cheap at a hobby store. Heck, if you
need to, you can even buy the parts from us.
And once you’ve got a collection of pawns, dice,
counters, and money, you can use the same ones for
every Cheapass Game. We’ve standardized our
designs so your gaming toolbox will last.
To learn more about Cheapass Games, visit our
double-secret Website at www.cheapass.com .
A Cheapass Card Game for 4-7 players
Mmmm. Bugs. You can’t eat just one.
on the cards. You have to eat at least one bug (take
at least one point) to win the game, but among the
people who take bugs, the one who takes the least
bugs wins.
Okay, eating bugs is not the real object of the
game. The point is actually to soak the other
gravediggers for their pocket change. Eating bugs
is just the fun part.
Buying the Trick:
In this variant, you can fold with no points. To do
so, wait until your chance to play a card, and then
pay the pot for every card currently in the trick. It’s
usually cheaper than taking the whole trick.
Welcome to the wonderful world of
Renfield, where gravediggers and other
miscreants spend their spare time playing a
brutal game of cards.
During the week, these grisly fellows
make their living digging up the freshly
dead, and pawning off their ill-gotten bits
to the body shops and boneyards of Parts
Unknown. So you can only imagine the
kind of game these guys play to unwind.
Renfield ©1999 Cheapass Games.
Game designed by James Ernest and E. Jordan
Bojar , with help from Paul Peterson and Toivo
Rovainen . Illustrated by Michael O’Connor.
Thanks also to a sly cadre of villainous Guinea Pigs.
The Format: Renfield is a trick-taking game.
Each hand is played in six rounds, or “tricks,” in
which each active player plays one card onto the
table, and the highest card takes the set. The play-
er who takes one trick leads the next one, and so
on for six tricks.
Renfield is also a gambling game, sort of
like Poker, in which everyone has his own stake,
and money is played into a pot in the center of the
table. Like Poker, it has developed a family of
variants which are listed at the back of this rule-
book. (You’ll also find one of our favorite Poker
variants there, Frankenstein .) The variants are
all written as extensions of the core rules, so learn
the basic game before moving on to the rest.
Like Poker, this game plays best with 4, 5, or
6 players, though it is possible to play with as few
as 3 or as many as 8. Expect a good deal of chaos
in the larger games, and a lot more order in the
smaller ones.
Well, you don’t have to imagine any more.
Bonus Poker Game: Frankenstein
Designed by E. Jordan Bojar and James Ernest
Folding: It is only legal to fold when the bet
comes to you. You cannot fold after your last
chance to bet, call, or raise. This prevents some-
one from looking at the Zombie’s cards, and
then folding because he can’t beat them.
Once you fold, you’re out for good.
This vicious little Poker game has been floating
around the Cheapass offices since long before
they were the Cheapass offices. Since it’s so
remarkably appropriate, we thought we’d throw
it into the Renfield rules at no extra charge. (It
plays with a standard Poker deck.)
What you Get: The Renfield Deck, 54 cards in
three suits. Plus this fine rulebook.
What you Need: Money. Renfield is a gambling
game. If you aren’t playing for real money, start
each player with $100 in chips, and compare
scores at the end. If you come out with more than
you started with, you’re doing well.
Rotating Open: For the sake of fairness, the
role of first bet and first draw moves one player
to the left with each new deal. This still isn’t per-
fectly fair, but it helps. For more “fairness” you
can start the rotating open at a random player,
rather than to the dealer’s left.
Frankenstein is basic five-card draw with one
major change, a Zombie hand . The Zombie
hand is built from the discarded cards (but not
the folded hands) and is allowed to make its best
five-card hand in the
showdown.
If the Zombie beats
the high hand, then the
would-be winner must
match the pot , and
the game is re-dealt.
The Goal: The object of this game is to take the
fewest points, as long as you take at least one. The
points are represented as yummy delicious bugs
Strategy: You will probably be throwing your
best cards into the Zombie and trying not to have
the best hand, until so many people fold that you
have a chance to beat the monster. Basically, this
is a game of lowball that mysteriously changes
into straight poker somewhere in the middle. It’s
up to you to decide exactly when that will be.
The Cards: Each card has four important details
down the side. A Rank (1 through 17); a Suit
(Tools, Parts, or Stones); Bugs (i.e., points, zero
through six); and a Dollar Cost (zero through
five dollars).
Rank determines the highest card within a
particular Suit . The order of the Suits is set by
Cheapass Economic Fact:
As with automobiles, baseball
cards, and precious stones, it’s
less profitable to sell a whole
dead body than to break it up for
parts. Don’t believe us? Get the
sister game, Parts Unknown !
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the high bidder at the start of each hand, and is
represented by the arrangement of the Key Cards
(the zeroes of each suit, which do not shuffle into
the deck.) The Bugs represent how many points
the card is worth towards your score, and the
Dollar Cost is the amount you must pay the pot
when you take the card. ( Not when you play it.)
Doublers: Some of the cards, 2’s and 12’s,
are doublers . The “D” in the dollar slot doubles
the money you must pay to take the trick contain-
ing that card. “Double” on the bug line doubles
your score for the entire hand .
Note: The PDF version of Renfield is the only
one to sport “Double” on the 12s. This was left out
by a printing error in the original paper version.
this trick, you must play a Stone if you have one. If
not, you can play whichever other suit you want.
There is no other “following” rule; you can
play higher or lower than the lead, and you can
play anything you want if you are out of the suit
that was led.
Folding: Once you have taken at least one
bug, you may fold instead of playing a card. If
you fold, turn over the cards you have collected,
and lay down your hand. You are now out of the
hand, and cannot win. Note: you can only fold at
a time when you would play a card. If you take a
trick, you must pay for the cards you’ve taken
before you have the opportunity to fold.
Variations:
Breathing Room:
Max six players. Players are
dealt eight cards, of which
they will play only six.
Once you have the hang of basic Renfield, you’ll
probably want to try some variations. You might
settle on a favorite house variant, or let the dealer
call a new game with each hand. Most of these
options can be combined to form more complex
variants; and don’t be afraid to make up your own.
Wild Cards:
Before dealing, the dealer declares one or more
cards to be wild. Wild cards may be played as any
suit or rank, but revert to their actual value once
taken. In other words, play these cards as if they
were wild, determine who takes the trick based on
the wild value, and then pay for and score them as
their face value.
Stud:
Seven players max. Players get seven cards, of
which they will play only six. Deal three cards
facedown, and four faceup. After the cards are
dealt, play proceeds as normal, with players able
to play either upcards or downcards as they wish.
The Death Card:
If your deck came with a black-faced card, you
can use it as the Death Card. Otherwise, you can
use any other card. Any trick including the Death
Card is not taken by anyone, and those cards are
removed from the game. The lead goes to the play-
er who would have otherwise taken the trick.
The Death Card has no suit, and cannot be
played unless its owner has no cards matching the
lead. (Option: the Death Card has all suits, and
can be played as a follow to any suit.) In either
case, the Death card can never be led, and if it is
a player’s last card, he must fold (points or not)
rather then lead the trick with it. This is actually
good, if you need to get out of the game for free.
Taking the Trick: If you played the highest card
on the trick, you take it. The “highest” card means
the highest ranked card of the highest suit, as dic-
tated by the order of the Key Cards.
Pay the pot for all the cards in this trick. (A
“D” in the dollar slot doubles the price of the
trick.) Arrange the cards on the table in front of
you, so that other players can see how many bugs
you have, and which cards have been played.
Whoever takes one trick leads the next one,
and so on. If a player folds instead of leading, the
lead passes to the left.
To Begin: Remove the three Key Cards , the
zeroes of each suit, and put them in the middle of
the table. These are the indicator cards for their
respective suits, and they will be arranged on the
table to show the hierarchy of suits on this hand.
Choose a dealer , who shuffles the deck and
deals a hand of six cards to each player. Set the
rest of the deck aside.
After each hand, the deal will pass to the left.
Draw:
After the deal, there is a betting
round as in Poker, in which
players may check, bet, call,
raise, or fold. Then there is a
drawing round, in which players
first discard up to four cards,
and then all discards are reshuf-
fled into the deck, and the play-
ers’ hands are refilled to six
cards. The normal game then
resumes at the bidding round.
The Bidding Round: Before playing the hand,
players bid to determine who will order the suits
and lead the first trick.
Starting to the dealer’s left, each player must
make a bid in dollars, or pass. The bid goes
around the table just once, ending with the Dealer.
Players must bid higher than the standing bid. If
no one bids, the Dealer must take the lead for $5.
Whoever makes the largest bid puts her bid
in the pot , and arranges the Key Cards so that
her choice for the highest suit is on the top , and
the lowest on the bottom. Every card in one suit
outranks every card in the suit(s) below it.
Winning: After all six tricks have been played,
players who have not folded compare their scores.
Whoever has the smallest number of bugs, but at
least one, wins the pot. Note: It is possible to take
a trick and still have no bugs!
If two or more players are tied, they split the
pot and leave the odd coins for the next game.
After each hand, the deal passes to the left.
Auction:
Seven players max. After the deal, players buy dif-
ferent cards as follows: deal seven cards into a
facedown pack. Reveal the top card. Players bid in
an open auction to buy the card. Players must bid
in dollar increments, with a maximum bid of ten
dollars, which buys any card outright. The player
who buys the card pays the pot, and adds it to his
hand. He then puts another card from his hand up
for auction in the same manner, but splits the
proceeds of this auction with the pot, with any
odd dollar going to the pot. (Mean players tend to
bid in odd numbers in this stage.)
If a card is not bought, it is discarded and the
next card is revealed from the pack. Once the
pack is exhausted, the game resumes with the nor-
mal bidding round.
Flatline:
There are no Key Cards. Players bid only to lead
the first trick, with the Dealer taking an unbid lead
for only $2. Players must still follow suit, but all
suits are considered to be of equal value. Cards
are compared on the basis of rank only, with
recent cards ranking above previous cards of the
same rank on the same trick. In other words, if
two 15’s are played on the same trick, the second
15 is higher.
It is possible to shuffle the zeroes into the
deck for Flatline. In this variant, if a Zero is led,
that suit is high for that trick.
0
Playing Each Trick: The Leader (on the first
trick, this is the player who won the bid) plays a
card onto the table. Proceeding to her left, every
player must play one card.
Following Suit: If a particular suit was led,
players must play a card of the same suit if possi-
ble. So, for example, if a Stone was played first on
To ols
Arranging the Key Cards (Parts is high here.)
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