Fences - Installation Primer.pdf

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DIY guide to installing an ARC Fence
DIY Guide to
installing an A.R.C. Fence
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Installing your own fence is easy if you follow
these simple instructions
The Location
The first thing you should do is check the location of underground services
(gas, water, telephone and electricity) so you won’t run into difficulties
when you’re installing your new fence.
You should also check with your local planning authority to make sure your
new fence will meet regulations.
The Tools
These are the basic tools you’ll need to get you going. Some careful
planning, a little elbow grease and you’re away:
The Materials We will supply you with all the fence components and fixtures you will
need, but you should also have some other basic materials on hand:
Installing the fence
1. Measure and Dig Once you have decided where the fence will go, mark out the position
of the gate. This will tell you where to dig the post holes - they should
be approximately 600mm deep and 200mm across.
TRADE TIPS
It’s easier if you work from the high ground, down the slope.
Use a spacer (or panel) to show you where to dig the post holes.
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2. Posts and Panels First, lay the panels and posts out along the fence line. Work outwards from
the gate post and be careful to keep approximately 75mm ground clearance
under the panels. Tek screw the panel with the fittings to the post.
For wire-based fencing use U-Clips.
Alternatively, when installing tubular fencing use the L-Clips supplied or
use rail bracket fittings for the top and bottom rails.
TRADE TIPS
Prop panels with timber props to keep the fence in position while you work.
Use packers under the panels to support the posts and panels and give the necessary
ground clearance.
Be sure to check line and level as you go.
Drive the tek screws firmly and lock them fully home when the posts are set into
their footings.
On sloping ground you will need to evenly step the panels. Make sure you work out
the steps before fastening the panels to the posts.
For tubular fencing, it is best to install the posts first and let the concrete set.
Panels can then be installed on the following day.
3. Mix and Pour Secure the posts into position by filling the hole with wet concrete mix to
a depth of 600mm. Then tighten all the tek screws firmly, checking line and
level as you go.
TRADE TIPS
If you prefer to have top soil at the base of the post, fill the holes with wet concrete
to a depth of 550mm or 50mm below the surface of the ground. Ensure you compact
the soil well. Alternatively, fill the hole completely with wet concrete mix to a depth
of 600mm.
Clean excess concrete from posts and panels with a soft wet rag.
Make sure you don’t disturb the fence for at least 24 hours after the concrete has
been poured.
4. Topping off the Job Once the concrete has set and the fence posts are firm, attach the post
caps with a soft mallet. Remove all props and unwanted materials, then
backfill around the posts with garden top soil.
TRADE TIPS
You’ll extend the life of your new fence if you wash off the grit and grime regularly.
This is particularly important if your fence is near water or exposed to salt air.
If the protective surface coat gets chipped or damaged, clean the affected area,
prime the surface and apply two coats of touch-up paint.
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Installing a garden gate
1. Getting Started The first thing you should do is determine which way you want the gate to
open. For boundary fences, the gate should open in towards the property.
2. Hinge Set Up Insert the hinge bush into the gate frame, then set the spacers into
position so they can support the gate and provide ground clearance. Next,
slide the hinge brackets into the hinge bushes and mark the locating hold
position onto the gate post. Now remove the gate and drill holes to match
the bolts provided. Finally, locate the hinge brackets into position.
TRADE TIPS
Make sure you keep the top of the gate frame level with the top of the adjoining fence
panels.
The vertical wires of the gate should face the outside of the fence.
Fix the top hinge firmly but leave the bottom hinge loose until the gate is installed.
The hinge with the fixed pin should be used at the top of the post and slotted into one
at the bottom.
Alternatively, you may prefer to use butt hinges instead of hinge bushes and brackets.
3. Gate Set Up Slide the gate onto the lower hinge and drop the top hinge into the gate
frame. Now tighten the bolts and check the gate opening action.
TRADE TIPS
Make sure the gate opens fully on sloping ground.
Adjust horizontal movement of the bottom pin to make the gap even between the gate
and the post on the closing side of the gate.
4. Gate Catch Set Up Firstly, position the ‘D’ latch on the post with tek screws so it will be
aligned with the striker bar when the gate is closed. Then fix the striker bar
to the vertical gate frame and check for smooth operation.
TRADE TIPS
Set ‘D’ latch height to match your personal requirements.
Don’t fully tighten the tek screws on the striker until the gate operates smoothly.
If you have both the single and double gate, the bent striker is for the single gate
and the straight striker is for the double gate.
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Installing a pool gate
1. Safety Pool Gates Self-closing A.R.C. safety gates are designed specifically for pool fences
(refer to our A.R.C. Fencing your Pool brochure for more information).
2. Which way? Regulations require that pool gates be installed to open away from the
pool, so that young children will push the gate shut rather than open when
trying to gain access.
3. Positioning the Gate Dig holes for the posts and a trench for the bottom locating rail.
To maintain spacing, you may also wish to use a top locating rail.
Position the gate unit to match the above ground reference heights.
Then prop and check the line and level.
TRADE TIPS
It’s easier to install the gate at the same time as the fence panels.
Leave the bottom locating rail on to maintain post spacing, particularly in expansive
soils that may move over time.
4. Setting the Gate Re-check the line and level of the posts and pour wet concrete mix into the
post holes to finish.
TRADE TIPS
You will use less concrete if you backfill the bottom rail trench with soil.
If you prefer to have top soil at the base of the post, fill the holes with wet concrete
mix to a depth of 550mm or 50mm below the surface of the ground. Ensure you compact
the soil well. Alternatively, fill the hole completely with wet concrete mix to a depth
of 600mm.
5. Cleaning Up 24 hours after you have poured the concrete you are ready to remove the
top locating rail and/or any protective packaging. Check the instructions on
the gate for spring adjustment and maintenance instructions.
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