Woodsmith 038 - Mar-Apr 1985 - Bunk Beds.pdf

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NO.38
NOTESFROMTHESHOP
$2.50
a
BUlIK BEDS
IDEOCABINETTDOLLCRADLE
+
PREP...
INA SERIE ON FINISHING
FIRST
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Mar/Apr,1985
Sawdust
-{BornrHIs IssuD-There's a good sideand
badsideto everything,includings'orkins
on an issue of Woodi)rtll. As we were
s'orkins on the desisnsfor the projects in
thisissue,anumbe.oflittle problems kept
poppmgup.
Over and over again, I found myself
beatinsmyheadasai.st the wautryingto
come up with solutions (techniques) to
solve some of these problems. WetL,so
muchfor the sood side.
The bad sideis that oncesolutio.s are
found, we havea difficult iime aetlins all
this inJomation in the issue.In th€ past,
we solvedthis problem by shonins proj'
€ctsthat involvedasimilar iechnique,and
Fesented a full article on that lechnique.
For the last couple ofissueswe'veb€en
trying somethinsdifferent. Most of the
techniqu€s we've us€d are smaller -
really rnor€ like tips. And as muchas we
can,we'vetded to include thesetips righi
in the al1iclefor €achproject.
I guess what I'm gettingat hereistbat ii
maybe worth r€adingthroush thesea}.ti-
cleseren if you'renot all that interestedin
actually building the project. There are
several good tipstuckeda"'ayin thisissue.
OkaJ,I'll makeil easier Here'sa list of
tie.es? Cut the dadoesbeforecutting the
two pieces. That is, cut the dadoesin a
double-widepiecenrst, urenrip lhe piece
doM to fom the two pieceswith the da-
does perfectlvaligled. Wedidthisto nake
the uprishis for the bunk bedladder See
Fi$re 3 on page r9.
!'tNrsHINc.This issuebeginsa seriesof
articles on finishing. This is a subject I
have miried feelingsabout. Most of the
time Ijust Nant to get it over with gel
somefinish on the project and b€ do.e
wiih ii.
But that hasledto disappointmentmore
ihan once,andI'!e foundmvselfre-frnish-
ingaproject to gal the lookI wanted (and
the project deselved).
IfI've leamedonethingabout finjshing,
it's that I can't put off thinking about it
until the endofthe project. Finishinshas
to stadwhen you'rebuyingthe wood,and
continuesvith eachstepin construction.
That's ihe short version of th€ afticle
thar beginson page 20 prcparjng the
suface. We {ill be follos i.g up vith art;
clesinthe coming'ssuesoneachstepofthe
ffnishing process: filling, seaiing,staining,
plus full articl€s on the chamctefisticsof
vanish, shellac, polyurelhane, and Lac
quer finishesandhowio applyih€m. Slax
Edilor
DonaldB. Pe.chke
OesignOi€cto.
T€d Krallc€k
AssislanlEditofs
St.ve Krohm.r
Douglas L. Hlcks
Ad Dircclor
Kayiluldor
Technical
Manager
SandyJ. Baum
Subscdprion
Assisranrs
ChrlatolMhel
VlckyFobhon
JackleStroud
Shtlsy Fellman
Dl.n. Siarr
CobputerOporalions
XsnMlner
CirculationManager
Jofi Flrls
Adminislrative Assistanl
Cheryl Sooti
BuildingMainlonanco
tuchle Xrau3e
1. Haw d.o laL to hLukea thrcLgll
uedsed no1'tiseard tenan laok pict re
petect? Chezt a )nr]le. I used a filler plus
ontheendsofthe motise andienonjoints
on the bu.k b€d. This is a$hole lot easier
than trying to cut a pefect nortise, and
th€n fitting it with a perfect tenon. See
Fisur€ 25 on page 15.
2. Okau notthottheJilLerpL sis;,the
moflise, hon d.a tlou smoath it Jl1tsh uiith
lr€ s?ldircefOn€way is to sand 'til your
blue in th€ face. (The ffller plug is end
grain, whichtakesforeverto sanddown.)
Anoiher way is to makea router jig that
cleansor the end of ih€ fill€r plus in no
time flat. SeeFisure 26 on page 15.
J. Hotl) do !o( cut o hole i]1 plltrood
btthaut chi,ppiryand spliri"nng theedse
to pi€ces? Use a router insteadofa sabrc
saw.I hadto cut an accesshole (for wircs
and cables)in ihe plywood back of the
TV,^r'CR Stand.Theb€stway io makeihis
li"e of cut is with a router - I usedthe
rouier lable. See Fisure 16 on pag€ ll.
.1. Hou .lo uau c\t a utholebunch of
,onises uithoxt act lllq harnq b cltt o
uhaLeblnch aJ tnottises? Use a notched
spacer strip. Thai's how we sohed the
problem ofmounting 10slaisbeiweenthe
crossrails of the h€adboardon rhe bunk
beds.SeeFigure 21 on page14.
5. Hotr do Vor llet dadoesto li e up
pelfec t! (acnss fron eachother)o ttro
lHE SCHEDULE. Du ng the past few
monthsse've addedquite a few nes sub
scribers. With each new subscriber,it
doesn'ttakelongbeforese heartso fanil'
iar questions: "Wltere's my issue?W}lyisit
is published
bihonlhly (January, March,May,July,Sep-
lember,Novembgr)by WoodsmilhPublishing
Co.,2200GrandAvs., DssMoines,
WOODSMITH
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Tbis problem staried r\t'o yeals ago
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to the poini ihar the issueswer€ goingoul
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date. We'!e been tri'ing to catchup eler
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lcopyrlghl1985 byWoodsmith
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oursehesdoingispuLtingmoreeffod into
ih€ quality ofeach issue.As a resuli, the
qualitl hasimprovedbut the schedulehas
not.Tosolvethisploblen, Ne'veoutlineda
newschedulethat will (hopetully) alloNus
to catchup oneweek with eachissue.
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TipS &' Tiqqhniqt'es
PTANINOTHIN 5IOCK
I enjoyedbuilding the toy truck ( /ood
s,ril, No. 35)Ior ny son.lt proved to be
an interestins €xercisein resafing and
hand planins thin stock.I foundit helpful
to build a benchhookto do tbe planing.
I sbfted with an 8" x 18" piece of %"
pllvood to useasa base.Then I drilleda
ro{ of holes l" from one end to accept
#8 x %' flathead "'ood scres's.Finally I
cur a %" rabb€t on th€ oppositeside and
end lo aitach a 2" lide by 8" long cleat.
Thebench hookr€stsoverihe edseofa
b€ncho. fits into a vise.Thescrewscanbe
backedout asltrle asnecessarytodogthe
thin stock. The real adlantase in this
benchhook is that it canhold extr€mely
thin stockfor planingwithout feArof the
planenln beingnjckedby the dogs.
Tousethefixturc,markihelimitofthe
cutononeendofthe $orkpiece.Wiihout
turningon the sa$! plac€ the sorkpiece
on the auxiliary fenceandclampLheslop
block ai this poinl. The workpieceis
turned e.d-for-endand fit into the space
bets'eent}e auxiliary fenceand the stop
bLock.The block atloss me to hold the
rvo.kpiec€lighi andkeepii from creeping
toward the blade. Then the remaining
pieces that ar€ to be the samelengthare
brought in againstthe blockand cul-
Al FenaLd.
8rcMft|. Nontt C.itolint
tight againstthe fenceand brnrg rhe arm
forward until it has reachedthe mark.
Lock lhe saw al lhis point, place the fix-
ture over the arm in front ofiha sa\ and
tighteDiLdolvn.Release the sawlockand
ii'srcady iouse.Asit's pulledfoa'ard, t}e
fixiure witl prevenr the saw from soins
beyondthe indicatedpoint.
Thefi\ture canalsobeplac€d b€hindthe
sa\s In tbis positionandwilh adrill chuck
attachedro the saw arbor, I use it as a
depthstop for horizo.tal boring.
Jae Coughli)t
LeagueCit!,'IbMs
SANDINGON IHE ROU'ERIABLE
Need a steadr-mount for a dmm sander
anddon'thavea drill press? That wasmJ
problem and here's how my l4roods,iillr
router table provedits s'orth again.
I mounteda Porlaligr witb my eleclric
drill and sandingdrum under t)re table.
There are two holes in lhe base of rhe
PoftaLigr that accept 7i \ 1% flathead
machinescre$sandwing nuts. I usedthc
NOTE:PonAucNHflD up
HxiJ[3f;?:']f"^- -'1!q!!c
Sincclhescre$heailstendto digink, the
enA grain ofthe stock,I ahlals allo$ extfa
len8thaDdcut off the Naste.
G.r. C(,tpan|st:hi
Serctna Patk, MaNldj l
MITIR STOPAIOCK
One problem I've hadwhen cutting mit€r
joinls for a frane is settins the opposing
side pi€ces to bc the e\acl samelength.If
they'reroLthe same,th€rewill bea gap in
one ormoreofthejoints. Thetrick 'sto use
b3seofthe Potalign asa lenplale to mak
the so€Nholes in the to! of the router
table anil then d lLedand countersunk
holesfor ih€ scrcws.
The depth collal on the sider.odhasto
be femoled andplacedbe1o.the yoke to
holdtheddLlup underthetable.Thecollal
locatiorcanbe pedodicallyadjustedif the
drun lvearsdown in onespot.
To use it, chuck the conect sanding
drum in the ddll, plus it in, and push the
constant-onbuLton.I find it's a comfolt
ableheisht for drum sandirs.
STOP IHAT sAW
Sincemdial arm sawscrLlon thetop of th.
Nood,the bladehasalendcncJlo glab ihe
irood and walk right through a cut- This
causesa problen if you rvant to make a
stoppedcut (suclr asablinddado).Ii's h:rd
lo stopthe salvat the coreci point.
I madeafi\ture that frtsorerthe afmof
a mdjal arm saw and stops lhe sa$ at a
prcd€tcrminedpoint. It's madeout oftwo
pieces ofl/,l scrapthat are 2 Nide andcut
to length to acconmodate the indi! ual
I slart by fasteninganauxiliaryf€nceto
themiLef gauge andcul a miter ononeend
BabLk a
Lenoir, N*otth Canli,t1
SENDIN YOUi IDTAS
c
I cul a seciionout of the top piec€ to
malch the shapeof the arm. Then I
attachedfoam s'eatherstlip tape {'/r") to
the cutout to keepthc stopflom slipping
andto pmtecl the alm.
The fixtue is h€ld together \dth t$o
lons cardage bolts, wash€rs, and wing
nuts. A couplespinsofrhe $ing nuts and
il's off or mo!'edinto position.
ofall thetuane pieces.Then I make a stop
blockwith lhe samemiter angl€cut onone
erd. (If o.e of the scmp piecesfrom lhe
inilial cuts is long enough, I use it as th€
stop block.) I also cul a ubbel on the
mitered endto act as a sawdustrelief.
Ne\t, I markthefinallengthofthepi€ca
llyo! dliketoshareawoodwoi(inglipvrilholher
teadatsol Woodsnith,send your idea lo:
Woodsnfth,
lowa50312.
We pay a minimumoI$10lorlips.and$15or
morelor special
(thala.eaeepled
lor plblicalion).Plgassglve a complelea(-
planalion ol youridea.ll a sk€lchis need€d,
sond
il aongiwolLdraw
WooDSMTTH
rbs & Techniques,2200G6nd
Ave.,DesMoines,
techniques
a new one.
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Doll Cradle
GOODNIGHI MRS.CABBAGE
PATCH,WHEREVER
YOUARE
Usuallytbe Christmasseason€ndsin De-
cember.But this year, it seemsto be linser
ins on a while longer. The most recent
post-Christmasproject has been a doll
cradle for all the Cabbage Patch Kids
"adopted" this year
I desisned the doll cradle to b€ a fairly
simple piece, using basic joinery tech-
niqu€s, and requirins only a few hours to
complete.I also used ponderosapine to
keepthe cradlelight enoughthat €ven a
two-year-old can cany it dound the house.
The cradieconsistsof five pieces:two
sides and a bottom that are joi.ed to the
headboard and footboard. The first step in
buildingthe cradleis to make a ternplate
for rhe headboard and footboard.
IXE ITMPIAIE
The key to laying out the
profile isthe vertical centerline,seeFie. 1.
Once this line is draM, the rest of the
profiieis centeredaroundit.
DrAcoNALs.First, the sidesof the tem-
plate are formed by drawing two 15"diag-
onals,seeFis. 1 Todothis, connectapoint
on the bottom edge,37s"from the center
lineto a point on the sideolthe template,
15'l'from the bottom edse, seer.is. 1.
rop ARc. After the sides are drawn, I
narked tbe top arc. To do this, first locate
center point A on the centerline,3%"ftom
thebotlomedge.Thendmw a r0%"mdius
slc, seeFig. 2.
Shop Note: I usedthe sirnplebeamcom-
pass shom in Detail A to dlaw tbis arc.
This compassis just a lhin strip of wood
with anotchat oneendto holdapencil,and
a v,6"hole at the pivot point for a brad.
BorfmMARc.The botLomec is dmwn
thesameway:LocatecenterpointB onthe
centerliner8" from the bottom edge and
draw an r8"-f3diusarc, seelic. 2.
RADrrrscoRNERs,Oncethese two arcs
are drawn, locate the center points for the
fou mdius come.s at the top oftbe tem-
plate. These radii fo.m the top of the
handleand the shoulders,seelig. 3.
Afte! the center points are located, use a
compassto dmw the radius comers on the
template.Then to conplete Lheshoulder,
dlaw a tangent line connecting the two
ILIIDLE. At this point the template is
almostcomplete.All that remainsis th€
handle.Tolayoutthe handle,first find the
centerlin€ by dmwins a 9%" radius arc
from centerpointA, seeFis.4. Thendraw
the%"-dia. endholeson tbis arc, 1%"from
thecenterline.Finally €onnectthetop and
bottom edgeson the lwo end holeswith
arcs,using pivot pojnt A.
scRDwfiol,Es.Th€templateis compleie
at this point, exceptfor six holes that arc
us€d later to locatethe screw holes for
attachingthe }eadboad and footboud to
the cmdle sides. To locate thesehol€son
tle template,draw a line parallel to both
sidesof the template,%" from the edse,
seelig. 4. Then mark th€ positionofthe
holes along this line, 4y2" , 8%" , a lt)ya"
from the bottom edge.
After these points arc locared,drill '/s"
pilotholesin thetemplate sothelocation of
rheholescanbetransfenedoniothehead-
board and footboard.
cuT'rNc.The laststepbeforecuttingout
the profite is to bore the Hdius comers and
handleholeswith a drill bit or lrole sa$l
Althoughthisstepisoptio.al - dependins
onwhetheryouhale therisht sizedbits-
ii's an excelleni way lo produceperfect
radiuscomers, seeDetail B.
Once the €oners are drilled out, use
€ither a bandsawor sabresawto cut out
the remainjng profile. (To cut out the
handle.I useda sabresa$ and ha.d fil€d
the edsessrnooth.)Thensandtheedsesof
the templatesmoothwith a drum sander.
wuHHotr s^w
or Dn|u![ rFAvatasrE
Next, followthe sameprocedulefor th€
four radii nearthe bottomofthe template
to fom th€ endson the rocker - locate the
center points and draw the radii.
sA8rEs^wTocurourrrcfllE
WOODSMTTH
Tomakethe template,I startedby cutting
a piece of %"-thickMasonite16"by 18v,",
s€eFis. 1 Then I laidoutthe profile of the
headboedfootboard.
CENaERLINE,
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The Tbmplate
IOI OIAGONAL5PRODUC€
\
I D.or o "rt, t1.pa,.o r.- Ll .\|n"tu.t. tt....,t,ontt,,
a 1J"'log.rols.'nr.t,!1o,.'t., L"ttt-.d1,.! !rcu..."t,i,
rDlrl endntll or the autside cdne 15t/!'.fro the b.ttort.
4 Lnn', r, ,t4 u.;rt! A oi lt nr 'h, , -t. l;, . I t,,, | .,ao t
.rL t,u,, tur,tos.. dtot t1,.t0. n.t,r.'atri ,.s.t.g.,\t.l
poltt A. ottd lhe 18",ndius bottonlarc 6iro cerkr point B.
+
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COIINECTIANGENT' OFTADII
lo For sHouL!€ror rEfftraa
; ;i,DEi) _j ,\.|,%^t. -:,1lJi,3lij'
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.:9.:g!^c3,11i1
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1 .n,t.t th, , J l,olos!b, '1., hor, . lr n t tud,"" rn ".,,1
9 4rrei thprupo,dbnttnn,.dq,'1',.,,d Lot, .Tr,, d.otr
(1 l\te
^ Nplt.t!.ot"tl,. prtpt po:"t"JolIt,. sr,o1Lad,,ohtltl r tt.p
"f e gl,t tod ;, ie; \g o sttolt rou poss. Then rcr r,f t I t,et o agp\ts
ol thc tyrd.iiat the tot oJ the tenpldte to lonr the shauldeN.
;4" .f)a)n the sitles, ond bcate the Dotitiro holts.
WOoDSMITH
oriiiirl:
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