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Build a Garden Bench

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Build a Garden Bench

Skill Level: Intermediate

Enjoy the beauty of your garden from

the comfort of a bench you build

yourself. There's just something about a

natural cedar garden bench that seems

to say "come on and sit a spell." This

bench is great for lounging on a relaxing

afternoon, reading or adding entries to

your garden journal. Lowe's is happy to

provide this information as a service to

you.

Beauty and comfort all in one place.

Article Content

Bench Building Alternatives

Tools & Materials

Make the Side Frames

Install the Seat Rails and Center Seat Supports

Install the Seat Slats

Install the Backrest

Attach the Armrests

Bench Building Alternatives

This bench can also make a great addition to your indoor dcor. For different looks, simply

substitute oak, poplar or pine for the cedar boards in the materials list.

· An oak bench with a clear top coat of varnish or water-based polyurethane brings to mind a

simpler time and the popularity of mission or arts and crafts styles.

· A properly conditioned poplar bench takes stain evenly and the neutral grain pattern of the

poplar allows you to mimic many wood species.

· A pine bench is an excellent choice for painting to match any color scheme.

Tools & Materials

Click a text link below to shop for that item.

Click the information icon for a product buying guide.

Tools

Materials

· Circular saw or table saw

· Router

· Combination square

· Drill/driver with bits

· Jig saw

· Level

· 1"x4"x8' boards Ï

12 pcs

· Wood glue

· Finish nails

· 1 1/4" galvanized screws

· Sandpaper

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· Palm sander

· Clamps

· Tape measure

· Dust mask

· Goggles

· Hearing protection

See the Cut List .

Make the Side Frames

1. Face glue the seat assembly supports to the inside faces of one front side frame upright and

one back side frame upright. Use 3d finish nails to hold the boards together while the glue

dries.

2. Measure and mark 2 1/2" in from each end of one of

the upright connectors and draw a seat contour on it

that connects the marks. (The contour's exact shape

is a personal preference.) Use a jigsaw or band saw

to cut along the contour line. Use the connector as a

pattern to mark the remaining upright connector

and the center seat supports. Mark the front end of

each piece for future reference. Face-clamp the

pieces together and gang sand them so their

contours match.

3. Lay the uprights on your workbench with the inside faces up. Lay an upright connector across

a set of front and back uprights so that its bottom edge abuts the top ends of each seat

assembly support. Leave 3/4" between the upright connector's ends and the outside edge of

each upright. Remember to orient the connector so that the end marked front is toward the

front upright.

4. Square the uprights and connector. Predrill holes through the connector and secure it to the

uprights with glue and screws.

5. Use the remaining uprights and connector to assemble the second side frame as a mirror

image of the first.

The upright connector with seat slats

already installed.

Install the Seat Rails and Center Seat Supports

1. Predrill countersink holes near the ends of the seat rails so you can screw through the rails

into the ends of the upright connectors.

2. Secure the rails to the side frames with glue and

screws. Check the assembly for square and adjust

as needed.

3. Measure in 15 1/4" from the ends of each rail and

mark the inside face of the rail.

4. Screw and glue each of the four, 6" long 3/4"x3/4"

support blocks flush with the bottom of the rails

centered on the 15 1/4" marks.

5. Cut a 3/4"x3/4" notch in the bottom of each end of

each center seat support. Position the center seat

supports centered on the 15 1/4" marks. Bore

countersink holes in the front and back seat rails

centered on the 15 1/4" marks and secure the

center seat supports with glue and screws.

Secure the rails to the side frames with

glue and screws.

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Install the Seat Slats

1. Use a router and a 1/4" round over bit to round over the 1 1/2" seat slats and the 3 1/2" seat

slats.

2. Position the front 3 1/2" slat on the bench so it overhangs the front seat rail by 3/8". Secure

the slat with finish nails and glue.

3. Lay a piece of 1x4 on edge so its back face abuts

the front edge of each back upright. This piece is a

spacer. Position a 1 1/2" slat so its back edge abuts

the front face of the spacer. Secure the second slat

with finish nails and glue. Remove the spacer.

4. Install the rest of the

1 1/2" slats equally spaced to fill in the area

between the front 3 1/2" slat and the rear 1 1/2"

slat.

1.) Back upright

2.) Spacer

3.) rear 1 1/2" slat

Install the Backrest

1. Rout or cut a 1/4" wide by 3/4" deep groove centered on one

edge of the backrest top rail. Use a router and a 1/4" round

over bit to round over the rail's edge on the opposite edge

from the groove. The edge with the groove is the bottom and

the rounded edge is the top.

2. Position the rail so the top corner is 5/8" in from the back edge of the back uprights and the

bottom corner is 1 1/8" in from the back edge of the back uprights. Bore countersink holes in

the back uprights so you can drive screws into the ends of the rail. Secure the rail in place

with screws and glue.

3. Mill 3/4" long by 1/4" thick tenons into one end of each backrest slat. The tenoned end of the

slat is the top.

4. Use a router and a 1/4" round over bit to round over the edges of the 1 1/2" backrest slats.

5. Place a slat at each end of the top rail 1 1/2" in from

the end of the rail. Secure the slats by gluing the

tenons into the rail's groove and driving 4d finish

nails through the slat into the rear 1 1/2" seat slat.

6. Install the remaining seat slats, evenly spaced

across the back rest.

7. Position the back 3 1/2" seat slat in place so its front

edge abuts the back faces of the backrest slats.

Secure the slat in place with finish nails and glue.

Install the backrest slats.

Attach the Armrests

1. Attach two 3 1/2" long 3/4"x3/4" cleats to each

front upright with 4d finish nails and glue. The top

edges of the cleats should be flush with the ends of

the uprights.

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2. Attach one 3 1/2" long 3/4"x3/4" cleat to the

outside face of each back upright level with the

cleats on the front uprights.

3. Bore a 3/16" diameter hole vertically in the center of

each cleat.

4. Measure in from the back end of one armrest 3 1/2"

and use a square to make a line across the armrest.

Measure in from the inside edge of the armrest and

mark it at 1" and 1 3/4". Use a square to mark lines

from the back edge of the board to the line you've

already drawn across the board. Use a band saw or

jigsaw to cut out the 3 1/2" by 3/4" notch made by

the lines.

5. Test fit the

armrest.

The notch

should fit

around the

back rail

with the

wide tail

over the

back cleat.

The front of

the armrest

should

overhang

the front

rail by 3/4"

to 1".

6. Make the second armrest as a mirror of the first.

7. Secure the armrests in place with glue and screws driven through the cleats into the bottom

faces of the armrests.

Attach cleats to both sides of each front

upright.

Test fit the armrest.

8. Lay the 2" by 3/4" backrest stiffener across

the tops of the narrow armrest tails. Glue and

nail the stiffener in place with 4d finish nails.

9. Once the bench is built, sand and finish it as

you like or leave uncoated and allow it to

weather to a beautiful silver-gray.

The finished garden bench.

Was this information helpful? Please let us know your do-it-yourself experiences. We'd love to hear from you!

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http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Build/GardenBench&print=true

2008-12-27

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