Woodsmith No 040 - July 1985.pdf - Woodsmith Magazine - tommyser

NO.40

I-ROMTFESHOP

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NOTES

Sawdust

Edilor

DonaldE. P$chke

DesignOi€clo.

rsd Krallcet

AssislanlEditors

Stev€ Krohmsr

Dougl$ L. Hlcks

oou9la6 . Lld8ter

ArtOirsctor

KayMuld€r

T€chnical

SHARIIA coupleofweeksagoI washelping

a fiiend set up and sharpena brand nerv

jack plana. As he iookit out ofthe box for

the first tinre, h€ was a litile surprised

q,hen I looked at it andsai{i. "Boy, this is

Aoing to take a lot of work."

"It's brand new," he arsued, "why

shouldii necda lot of {ork?"

The problern is that we usuallyihink of

"ne!v" m€aninAthat something is in the

best condiiionpossible.Everything fiom

there on just weals it out.

But s'ith s'oods'orkins tools (especially

hand tools), jusi ihc oppositeis tne. A

nes' tool usually ne€dsa lot of work

€specially

Ii's messy,andthe endsof yoN finge$

tum a lot of different colors.but mixins

your oln stain is an inter€stingprocess.

The al.ticleslating on page 19 giles an

overview of the differenl types of stains

alailable. Then in Talkins Shop (page 2B)

ofihis issue,s'e sive a fomula for making

your o"n hone brew It opensa Lotof

possibilities for coloringwood.

This aticle continuesour sel.ieson fin-

ishing. We're already at work on the up'

comingaticles oniopcoais: vamish, shel

llluslfaloF

OavldKreyllng

ittk€ ttenry

SubscprionManagef

Srndy J. Baum

SubsriprionAssistanls

chrlst€llrln€r

vlcky Foblmon

JackleSiroud

Dlrna Sbr

Compul€rOpglalions

Ksn ittn€r

Circulation

r MBoLRs.W}lile I'm on the subject of

discoveringnew ways to doing thinss, I

found a nee use for a tambour. Although

the typical application is to use jt as a

sliding lid (as on a roli top desk),it does

have at least one other inie.esting

appiication.

I useda tanbour to fonn a cylinder to

buildthe umbrellaslandandpiaDterstand

sbo{r in this issue. (See pages 6 and r0.)

(By the way, in case you're sondering

aboutthe word "bumbershoot" in Lhesub-

title on page 6, it's English slang for

if it'sonethat has (or issupposed

to have)r sharyedse.Planenons, chisels,

andcarvingtoolsall needto be shar"ened

s'he. they're new And this taskcontinues

as lors as ihe tool is used.

Okax I've mademy casefor sharp€nins

- albeit not a very conirovelsialone,es

peciallywhen we're talking about planes

andchisels.But how aboutFo$tner bits?

This is on€tool most of us wouldneyer

dr€am of sharpening. The first one I

boushtcost $15 (for o"" y:" bt). A.d all it

took was on€ look al the business end to

conlincemethatth€re'snowayio sharpen

a FoNtner bit. Even ifit couldbe done,it

would certainly requirc an exp€nsivear-

ray of machineshopequipment.

So,the only rlternalive was to assume

that "new" in this casemeantthat the bit

wasth€ bestit sas going to be.And when

il sot dull, I would just lravelo tossil.

Waii aminute.Throw awaya$15bjt just

because

[,lanag6r

Jefl Farrls

AdminisratvoAssistant

Cheryl Scoti

BuildingMainrenance

AfchleKrauae

soURcDBoo(. Last year in September,

we sent out the frst editionofthe Wood

smith Sourceboak.The responseto that

nrst effort was overwhelming

orde$ ivere placed tha. we (or the adver-

tiseG) thoushl possible.Wlich indicates

onething: the SorlrceDoo/r

provedto be a

useful guide to the information that's

availableon woodsorkng catalogs,iools,

andsupplies.

This year, s'e'redoinganencore!iththe

Soarc€booi-It will bemailedoutlh€endof

August so you should receive it by the

middleof September.

For thoseof you q'ho havesubscrib€d

WOODSiII]H (SSN 0164-4114)

is publishgd

(January,March,May, July,Seplsm.

ber,November)

by WoodsmilhPublishiigCo.,

2200GrandAve.,Oes^,loin€s,

it's dutl. No s'aJ'.

Thal's when I decidedlo leam how to

sharyen Forstner bits. (See page 4.) It

didn't take longbeforeI discoveredthat a

I'olstner bit is relatively easJlo sharyen.

And then comesthe fun part. Just like

workins on a plan€ and se€ingthe first

cnsp shavings,it's a thrjll to seethe lons

ibbon of shavings that emersesf.om a

well-shar"enedForstner bit. In fact, ii's

lowa50312.

WOODSillTtl

is a fsgislered

trademakol lhe

WoodsmilhPublishing Co.

.Copylght 1985byWoodsmilhPublishing

Co.

Wooftntllr rec€ntl), the Sourceboakmar

comeasa surprise.Almost everyonelik€s

ihe fact that ure pages of woodsn ifi aren't

cluttercd with a lot of ads.

Onthe otherhand,manyofoursubscrib-

€l.Ns

Subcdptlon6:One year(6 issu€s) $10, Two

yeals(12 issues) $18. S,nglocopy pice, $2.50

(Canada andFofeign:add$2 peryear.)

changeolAddr63s:Pleasebesureroinclude

bolh youf oldandnewaddr€ss.

Seond cla33 po€ttge pald al DesMoines,

sralNs.It'sobviousthat I can getexcited

about sharpenins.But lhe subjeclof an-

oih€r art'cle in this issue $'olking with

stains is one I've nevef beentoo int€L-

estedin.

Part of il is that I like natuml sood.

Stain always seens artificial. But the

oiher palt is that I neverknew ivhatto do

silh a stain if I didn't like th€ particular

toneorcolon The bis question for mewas:

How do I get the color I want?

It turns outthat the ansrveris not nuch

different that the answer for how to

sharpena Fontner. All it iakes is some

niss som€ofthe informationthat ad-

vertising provides. So, we initiated the

Woatunith Saurcebaok

P$haslsr: Sendchang€or addressnolice,

Fom 3579, lo WoodsmithPublishing Co.,2200

Gand Ave.,DesMoines,

to ptovidea single

souce for ordering catalogsand product

lowa50312.

BACKISSUES

Allbackissuesol W@dsdnhar€stillavailablg.

Send lor a freebookleldescribing

Insjdethis year'sSorrrcebooi you'll find

descriptionsof 43 woodlorkins catalogs

and products.Yet,thepage.otwao&rlnith

masazinestayjust ihe way ev€ryonelikes

ihem advertisingfree.

I hope you find theSorrceboolhelpfulin

ploviding lhe information you need lo buy

shoptoolsand supplies.

NExr MAILTNG.

lheconrenrs

andp ces ol allbackissues.

SAUPLECOPIES

llyouhaveaffiendwhowould

likeloseeacopy

ofWoodshlih, juslsend !h€nam€andadd€ss,

andwellsenda sample(atno cost).

The Seplember/October

issueof Woo&nilh (No. 4l) sill be maiLed

during the week of October 15, 1985.

WooDsMlrH

bimonlhly

TipS S Ti..hniques

NO.ClAMP5 F'ATHTRAOARD

l'unbhrg Nitlr claups to faslen a fearh€r

board to a sa\r tableahvavsseenedlikc a

lot oftrouble io makeonecut. Recent\' I

built this no'clamps featherboardto solve

the ploblem.It\ anordinarxfeatherboar.l

Nith a lhin griile bar fastcnedto the bot

iom that tnounts in the table saw'smiter

scre$'s t$'istedrather than tightenedas I

turDed the \ ns nuts. I solved this br

cutting the slot in the top ofeach screwa

ofsclapasastopthat\just lhickenoughto

(edge in thc groole.

v'.,drll A tl.ts.,

HaDtrcatl,Illiiais

^":Er'":

,E*;W\E'

CTIANINO UP NOICHIS

Since I don't osn:] bandsas, I u,.edm)

sabresalr to cur out the notchcsiDthe top

andbottompieccsNhenI rvas buiklinstlre

EnslishUrallLanteln ( li'oodsDiitl No. 3d).

But I $asn t able to get an e!en, smooth

edge-Tbe router tabiesolvedthepl'oblem.

After making '/j-wme, fuildepth end

cuts on the table sa$r mafk a cut olTline

about %,,"

I beganbl' makinga featherboardoLrtof

5I stnck Olerall.mrnei. ; tride b\ 18'

lo',ganrl hasa l5'cut unthefeathrred end.

Theindi! Lralbarbs ofth. featherarc |I,i

\tide bY 3 long.

,{fter the 'feathcr" endis cur, rour two

v{-\dde br'6 lonCadiustment slorsallthe

Nay through ihe featherbodd. The slots

aI€ 2l:" apartandstart 1"fi.omlhe barbs.

r\"e\1,cut aguid€bar to Nidth andthick-

nes,c so it fits precisell in the miicr gauge

slot ofvour table saN Make it at least as

longasthe entire trble for Do$ laterit s

cut to 12".

lessthaDthe tul1depth.Then cut

alonsthis line $ith a sabresa\l

N€xt, mount a %" str.aightbit 0n th.

router tableandraise it up Lrntilit\ abo\,e

the thickness of the \olkpicce. Set the

distanceflom the lence to the outsideof

little deep€r and then slujng a finishins

nail nrto the slot $'ith epoxy.

Roheil K. Gndl

Attor,Itti ais

MI'IRING SMALI STOCK

I'!e made a number of projects that re

quire 'r' quater-round moklinss as glass

stops. These usualh r€quire a precise

miter. It's difficult to holdthe smatlmold-

inss tight andin the conect posiiionon a

table saN of traditional miter bori.

My solution was to make a mnriaturc

miter box. Th€ work suface is a pi€ce of

l/4 stock$ ith a /1"-$.ide

\'/i-deep gl oove

cut dorvnthe center io hokl the moiding.

(These ineasurements couldb€ alteredto

1lt the pieceto be mitered).

the bit the sameas the depth of the table

sa\rn notches.This shoulil be just d.c!

enoughLocleanoffthe %,i'andstmighten

up tne un€venedges.

AficrcuttiDgtheguirle barto fit the slot.

clamp the bar to the bottomofthe feather

board. Lirre it up parallel \\'ith the feath-

ercdcnd (thatis, ata{S"angletotheedge)

andoY.r the adjustment siots.

Using th€ slots as a gauge, mark thcir

locations on the gaide bar $ith aD awl.

Unclamp and ddll a ri dia. counteFnrk

and% -dia. holecentered on the suidc bar

at €achnar.kedlocation.

Aftef the tlvo holcs are dfilled, cut a

v':stopped slot (ker0 cenrered on the

holesallthe $ar throush thegrrntebar:To

do this. clampthr piece do$n to the ,qa$

tablc so it\ (idth is ceDtered r.isht over

the blad€.TtrensloNlvraise rhebl;de until

therc's an S lons dot. Finallr', th€ bar can

be cut to 12"long.

Assemblethc featherboar-il with a

couple 2" long, '/r"-din. flathead mache

screws,Nrshefs, andlving nuts_Tighte.

ingthe wingnuts causesthescre$s to stidc

u! inlo tlre countersink. -{s the! sliile up.

the '/"" slot is openedand sDreadsthc bar

aohol.lit secLr.ll in the miter gauge stor.

Oneprcblem I discolered\as that thc

,.t.>4 --'

,,/

-/-

"i""3J3"

Tin Dni,

IlbatJland. IIlt shi rytan

t'diror's No1.r ll'e tti.d lIt. Dtd;" s

netho.la"d it otks liN. Rtt wt.l liket.)

.(l(l a cadrl. .( tiors: Be &t..tnt itot to

sratt ard stopthectt toa.lio. into th. table

sant ,()tt:hfsta at ta ooto. llt( cane$.

tStophl.ckscanldb. attdch.tltr th. feie

topt?.ent this).Ar.l l iththeErllish IIitll

Ldrt.nt, lhe ttt is h.ijtlJtuttcd il rrd

lrdnt. R. srrc to hal.la" ft.rrcL as n

'rdtet hit ,r(r "o\li

it out n'ith a p€ncil. Thenclampa

temporarl guide boardto the line anil cul

ilith a backsaw along the board until

therc'sa %"-deepkelf in ihc work sufacc.

Next flip the piece oler and drill a

1vr'-dia. filger hoic centered on the

s oole:}ndaboutll"fi.om the kef Thehole

makes it easicr-to hold and romole rhe

workpieceandhelpsclearout sawdLNtbe

lh. crd 0tai .

SENDIN YOUI IDIAS

olhef

teadetsol Woadsmith, ssnd your idea tol

Waodsnih,rips & Techniqu€s,2200cand

Ave.,DesMoines.

lowa 50312.

We pay aminimum

of $r0lortips,and$15or

mo.elor special

lschniques

(thal afeaccepted

sxplana-

lion ol your idea.lf a skelchis needed. sendtt

alongiws

Then scrc$ a block to thc botom ofthe

jisto clampit in a vise.l.'inal\,, cut apiece

lldrawa new one.

WooDsMrrH

BOTTOMVIEW

scREwBrocK

t\ Y

To cut the 45"ke|f in the work sur.face,

tust lar..

ll you dlikelosharcawoodwo4(inglipwith

rorpub

icalion).Pease giveacomplet€

HOWTOGETA SHARPEDGEON A BORINGBIT

rorstnerbits can dothingsnootherbit can

do.Forexample,ifyou it'antlo d llahole

at an angle (aven a vel.v steep angle),a

Forstner bit \rill do the job.

If you rvant to drill olerlappins holes

(forroushinsoutanoftise, forexample),a

Fo$tnerbit is the oneto choose.Oa ifyou

needtodrilla flat-botton€dhole,orifyou

haveto drill into end srain or wild sain

ThercasonForstnerbits canaccomplish

these tasks rvhen other bits can't is be

causethe rim, rather lhan the center

point, suides the bii through the wood.

Althoughthere is a smallce.ter point in

ihe cutting head, it's used only to position

the bit at the stadins location.It playsno

role in suidins the bit through the \rood.

The rim scor€sthe circumferenceofthe

holebeingdrilled. Th€n, \'hile the rim is

holdins th€ bit in position,iwo chisel-like

lifiers (iadiaiing from the centerofthe bit)

parearvaythe woodwith a planinsaction.

a HEAt-SlNsltrvE Brr

But wiih all it's abilities,l'orstner bits arc

norwiihout problens. Th€ mostseriousis

its tendencyto overheat.

Fo$tner bils were developedfor us€in

a bit b.ace (hand brace),andnot intended

for tbe speedofa rnotor-drilen drill press.

Sincethe €ntire dn of the bit is in full

contactwith lhe wall ofthe hole,l'ontner

bits must be run at slowsp€eds (less than

400rpm) or they will overheat.

Ifthe bit is mn too fasi, a tremendous

anount ofheat will be built up asth€ rin

Irlbsagainstthe circunferenceofthe hole.

This heat can draw the temper from the

steelvery quickly (Ifihe steelturns blue.

the temper is dralvn.)

Oncethe temper is drawn, the rim s'ill

be ioo soft to hold a sharp cutting edse.

Then it's usually/o/ced into the wood,or

the speed isincreased

for y€ars, I'verccently

switched

to a pair ofJapanese

{ater slipstones

in 1000 and

4000 srit. Thesestonesm€a-

sure2"x4". (See Sou-Ices,

page

24.) B€causethey're larger

than the lndia/Arkansas

ston€s,

feelingfortheonginal

be!'elis morediffrcult.But I

to ,rak€ it cut,which

If the bit is sharpened, it will srtce

tirough th€ wood vith ven, liitle resis-

tanc€ ($hich rcducesheat build'up). And

insteadof clogging,it will actually produce

lons dbbons ofshavings, see pholo.

TOOTSNEIDID TOTsI{ARP'NING

However,all it takes is one look at th€

businessend of a Forstner bit to realize

that there'sno way to shapen ii. Thenrn

can only be reachedfrom tle insjde,and

the lifte.s are impossibl€to set to.

Okay, it's no se$et that sharyeninga

Forstner bit is trickier than sharpening

other€dgedtools. Bul it canbedone.And

with the help of a few tricks and the dght

equipment, it's really pretty easy.I use

two smallcarver'sslipstones (mediurn and

fine), and a sirnple jis to hold the bit.

sl,rpsroNEs-The slipsI usearemadefor

sharpenins carving tools: a small (r/' x

2%") medium-grit lndia and a hard Ar-

kansasmakea nicecombinationfor sharp

ening Forstner bits. (S€e Souces, page

%.)The Indiais used in the initial stagesto

rough down the edse, and then the hard

Arkansasis usedio honethe eds€.

Although I've usedthe India/Arkansas

find rnyself putting up with this incon-

venience because the Japanese stones

cut faster and producea better edse.

HoLDINGJIc, To help hold the Forstner

bit at the proper angle rvhen using the

stones,I usea simplehoidingjig. This jig

isn'r fancli it'sjust a piece of scrapwith a

holethe sizeof ihe bit shank,seeFig. 1

ShopNote: Cut a kerfthmueh the hole

so when the jig is placed in a vis€, tle

amount of pressure on the bit ca be ad'

justed by looseningortighteningthe vise.

Thisrdll allo{ thebit to spinfreeor beheld

secuely in the hole.

SHATPENINGTHEI.I'TTRS

Once the sharyenins equipment is col-

lected,I start *orking on the tifters.

SHARPEN

jusl mins the bit.

Anoth€r problem with Forstner bits is

that thelre very poor at ejecring wood

chips, especiallywhen tbey're not sharp.

The ejectionthroats t€nd to closandthen

it's difficult to feedthe bit into the wood.

When this happens,the most common

soiution is to "jog" the bit d ll a little,

lift up, drill a little more, lift up. If the

clogging is r€ally bad, you have to stop ihe

ddll press anduse an awl or smallnail to

clearthe ejectionthroats.

Bui, there'sa better solution. Forstner

bils clog for one .eason: they'r€ not shary.

lnfact, evena brandnewbit isn't assharT

LTFTERBACK.The back ofthe

lifter has to be flat and smooth before the

bevelcanbe sharpe.ed. The first stepin

flattenins the back requires getting the bit

into position sothe backofthe lift€rcan be

reachedcomfortably,see Fis. 1

I find that secuinsthejisin avisesothe

bit is parallel to the floor and pointing to

the left feels comfofiable.Thjs puts the

back of th€ lifier in line with my am for a

WOODSMTTH

Sbarpstuq : ForstnerBits

stones

sharpeningmotion.

Oncethe throat is liDedup comfortab\',

siart Nith the medium gfil stone io

smooth the back. Rock th€ stone on the

back of the lifter until il lesls flat. Then

stfokc backandfofth, seefig. 2. The kcJ

is to be consistentin the strcking motioD.

Keep sloning until the backs of both

lifters looksmoothandflat. Thenswitch to

a fine honins stone and so thlough th.

REItovElHE NrRt) EDGE.As the lifter

bevelishoned,arvne edgeislaisedonthe

back (flat) snl€.To removethe wire edsc,

positionthejis andbil asthev Nere uhen

flatienins the back, see rig. L Then lerf,

lishtly rubthelinc honinsstone acrossthe

backlo hoDeoff lhe irc e.lge.

s}IARPINIHI NIM

Thenextstepissharpenins tber.ims.If lhe

bit is in really bad s}ape, or has sloppy

sdndins fron the faclor\',the inside con-

toul.ofthe n hasto b€ shapedbeforeit

can be sharyened.This requiresa rather

unorthodo\ technique.

I scrap€the edge witb the sharpened

edgeofa triangllarfile. T0 dotbis,lishtly

srindthethree sidesat the iipofthefileto

makc three shary cutling cdges.Because

the nle slccl is considerablyhadar than

the l'orstn€f bit, lhis tool wilt actuallr

stoneon the insidc bcyel of the rim, sce

Fig- 5- To gel a consistcnthoningaDgle,

slide the end of the stoDein so it rests oD

the bit's ceDter point.

NoN ir's just a maticr of holding thc

stone stcadt an.i rotatirg the bil so the

entire edge of the m rubs asainst the

edgeofthe slipslone.Just spin the bil s'iUr

wlren the insi.le of the rim is unifonnly

smooth,fcpcal the process onthe opposite

im- Then switch lo the fine stoneto hone

sH.rripE)ir,IlTER r]EVELS.When both

lifterbacksarc flat andmirrorsnooth, the

lifter b€velscanbe sharyened.At first, it

may look like this pari of the lifter is iln-

possibletoget to. But there'sasmallclear

ance nolcb in the dm ight Dext to the

lifter This rotch alloirs enoushclearance

forthe stoneto rcstflat onth€ ]ifterbelel.

To sha$en the lifter belel, I begin bI

clamping thejigin the rise sothe bit isheld

almost upright, seeFig. 3. Then place the

n€dium grit slip stone on thc belel and

feel for th€ orisinal angle.

Uhen vou find the angle. rub the stone

back and folth. (Althoush it looks like

Jou'll run into the im aSihe stip stoneis

stroked.the angleofthe lifter is suchthat

the stoneis actunl\' sumed up and aral

from the dm, see rig. 3.)

Aftef onelifter is stoned.Iotate the bit

andstore the oppositelifter: 'fhen Iepeat

tne prccess irith Lheline stoneto hone the

lifters to a shary edge.

RErrovE$rnri Et)cE.The last step is to

removethc Nire edgefrom tbe outer sur-

faceof the ln. This takes just a s€cond.

Holdthe faceofthe stoncflushasainst the

side ofihe bit andrclate th€ bit against the

Makesure the stoneis flat on the rim of

the bit. YoLldon't want iL to tilt iI and

create a ncgatile bevel on the outside of

the im. (Ifthe cuttins edseis bc!€leil in,

it will cul a circumfer€ncesnallerthan the

resLof the im - so thc bit \ron't feed.)

rrsT THEEDGE. Oncethe bit is -qharp,

the finaltesl takesplaceonthe ddil pr€ss.

Set il for the siowestspeed possible and

find a pieceof scrap to bore a tesr hole.

The bit should s/ic€ a hole smoothlr-

Nithout clogging.If it s reallr- sharp, ihe

bit \'ill cut a contiDuousstip of shalings

- elen in naple as sho\rn in the photo.

No$t horvcouldanronecall that bofins?

Nos' hoki the bit ir onc handandusea

sharp corner of the file to make several

smoothstrokes along the entirc dm, see

Fig. 4. It's easiertha. it soundsto (aNe

thc inside b€lel to a smoothshape-

sTo).-INcTHFiRIM.Tbe techniqueI useto

sharpenthe rim is torotat€ the bitagainst

the roundededgeof ure slip stone.Put the

bitin thejis, andclanpthejigin aviseso

it's roughll at a 45"ansle. Make sufe the

Now place the round cdse of the slip

|ril

ls parulkl h a nolloltl sh-okingnotion.

Thurlb ptessue slead.ieshit.

::xi,xi

iit::j"i?,:i:,

4 Flott?" the Liftcthock l,A strckirn th.

- norp llor ugoinsllh, stl{ute. Cat

tinre till aLltool ,1orksaft ga e, then

hancto ),ntutJin;sh nith fine stone.

a Sho4rc, the ttler bet:ptb! stmkins

9 thestow xhiLenldi'tti)ring theonp-

ilLalbercL.Clearancenotcftolloa,sdcc€ss

r:ithort c. tlerg..riitg tirt edse.

::l#:y

gte. Rotat...tile and bit in oppositedi.

rcctia8 to scftpe a srnoth be9t.

:i;,:I:

]'i "",;

1 Shoqret i^ith of n t L! trtotinq thz

r hi! (h"l,l l!!tel! in thpjttt oqtinst the

edseof the sta e. Use the ce tetpoint ta

pilDt th. hit o the end at'tht stoue.

6 :; ::,:;:;,,!;,;:

;x ; y;"

.foce afthe fi, Ii1htlltasoitstthe sto e.Be

catef l iat to ha,c n trcgatirc be"-eL.

WooDsr{rrH

natxral back-and-fol1h

I r::i:::

":,i'

:':,

:i';,'

:;:

4 ::5"

:rii:

Woodsmith No 040 - July 1985.pdf

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