Cabinet - Kitchen Base Cabinet.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

KITCHEN BASE CABINET

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There are two sorts of kitchen cabinets:

base cabinets, which sit on the floor, and

wall cabinets. Base cabinets provide both

storage space and work surfaces. They

often house sinks, such large appliances

as dishwashers, and sometimes smaller

conveniences, such as slide-out shelves

or cutting boards.

Construction: The basic cabinet is

made of a plywood case (sides, floor, and

back) and a counter top covered with

plastic laminate. Hardwood trim defines

Tools and materials: Radial arm or table

saw with dado head Saber saw, backsaw.

Router with straight veneer trimmer, bevel

veneer cutter, arbor, and pilot, 3/8"

rabbeting bit, and 45° chamfer bit. Electric

drill with set of twist bits, No. 10 plug cutter,

and Nos. 8 and 10 combination pilot,

clearance, and Counterbore bits. Wide chisel,

3/16 " chisel, fine laminate file Hammer

screwdriver. Several 5' pipe or bar clamps,

several 6" C-clamps, vise. Framing square,

combination square, level, steel tape rule,

compass, utility knife, pencil. Rubber-

surfaced pressure roller or rolling pin Belt

sander with No. 120 sanding belt Nos 80,

100, 150, and 220 sandpaper. Masking

tape, carpenter's glue, construction

adhesive, contact cement Lacquer thinner

or equivalent solvent, tung oil, soft cloths

One 4' x 8' panel each of 1/4", 1/2 ", and 3/4 "

birch-veneer lumber-core plywood and of

3/4" high-density particle board. One 2' x 4'

panel each of 1/4" and 3/4" cherry-veneer

lumber-core plywood, 48' of 4/4 cherry, 20'

of 1 x 2 clear pine, and 11' of 2 x 4 f ir

Cedar shingles. Enough 1/16" plastic

laminate to cover surface and edges of

counter top Two flush-mounted pivot

hinges, five pairs of 20" metal drawer slides,

one magnetic door catch, six small round

drawer/door pulls. 2d, 3d, 4d, 8d, and 12d

common nails, 4d and 6d finishing nails,

7/8" No 6 roundhead wood screws and the

following flathead wood screws: 5 /8" No 4,

1/2" No 6 1", 1 1/2", and 2" No 8, and 1 1/4"

No 10

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Kitchen base cabinet

the openings for the door and drawers

and reinforces the case. The case is fas-

tened to a platform that has been leveled

with tapered shingles used as shims.

Do-it-yourselfers who build kitchen

cabinets often order custom-made coun-

ter tops. It is a good idea to do so if you

need a large or L-shaped top. Otherwise,

you can make your own as shown and

save a good deal of money.

Variations: The base cabinet de-

scribed in this project has five drawers

and a wood-paneled door that opens to

reveal a shallow fixed shelf. You can eas-

ily rearrange, increase, or eliminate the

elements to suit your needs. . You can

also redesign the cabinet to house a

sink.

The directions that follow are for a cab-

inet 3 feet high and 2 feet deep that will fit

beneath the kitchen wall cabinet in the

next project. The counter top is designed

to cover not only the cabinet but a dish-

washer or other appliance as well. You

can build the base cabinet exactly as it is

shown here if you wish, but you will have

to adapt at least the length of the counter

top to fit your own kitchen.

A base cabinet has two types of sides.

One side (the right, as described in the

directions that follow) reaches only to the

cabinet floor, which rests on top of a plat-

form. It should be placed against a wall or

butt against another cabinet on a common

platform. The other side (the left) reaches

all the way to the kitchen floor, masking

the platform. It should be placed against a

large appliance or be left exposed. If it is

exposed, use cherry-veneer plywood

and fill the screw holes with cherry plugs

as used on the face of the cabinet. If the

left side of the cabinet will not be seen,

use less-expensive birch plywood and

leave out the plugs. If both sides of your

cabinet will be visible, use the measure-

ments, techniques, and materials given

for the left (outer) side for both sides of

your cabinet. If both sides butt against

walls or other cabinets, use only the mea-

surements, techniques, and materials

shown for the right (wall) side.

You may want to install a backsplash,

which will prevent liquids from running

off the counter top and down the wall.

Although a short backsplash is equal to

the task, the 18-inch-high backsplash

recommended is easier to keep clean

and provides a level support for a wall

cabinet. If you plan to install a wall cabinet

above your base cabinet, a high back-

splash will make the job easier.

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1. Cut parts A-E to

sizes in chart

Then cut dadoes,

rabbets, and notches

shown in patterns Cut trim

(Q) for

divider (C) and shelf (E)

and cut a 1/4- x 1/4-in.

dado down center of

back edge of each trim

piece. Apply glue to

dadoes, push trim onto

tongues created by

rabbets in divider and

shelf. Clamp until dry.

Belt-sand trim flush with

divider and shelf.

5. Slide shelf (E), with its

trim facing the front, into

dadoes in divider (C)

and right side (A) Cut

back (L) to size and

glue it in place so that it

sits in rabbet in left side

and is flush with bottom

of cabinet floor (D) and

outer edge of right side

Tongue of left side will

extend a bit beyond

back Secure back with

4d common nails.

2. Draw lines across top

of cabinet floor (D) 22 5 /8

and 23 3/8 in. from left

edge. Continue lines on

bottom of floor Clamp

divider (C) upside down

in vise and glue floor to

its bottom edge so that

divider meets floor

between lines and divider

trim extends 3/4 in

beyond front of floor.

Using lines on bottom

of floor as guide, drive 4d

common nails through

floor into bottom of divider

every 6 in. Keep

connection squared while

doing so.

6. Check measurement

and cut long bracing

strips (V) to size. Clamp

one strip along inside of

back (L), fitting it into

notch at top of divider

touch insides of cabinet

sides (A and B) Use

No. 8 combination bit to

drill five evenly spaced

pilot holes through back

into bracing strip Also

drill down through

bracing strip into top of

divider. Drive in 1 1/2 -in.

No 8 screws and

remove clamps

3. Apply glue to bottom

edge of right cabinet side

(A) and set cabinet floor

(D) upside down on top of

it so that all outer edges

of the two pieces are

flush. Drive 4d common

nails through cabinet floor

into bottom edge of side

every 6 in., stopping to

check for squareness after

driving in each nail. It is of

utmost importance that the

cabinet be square, as the

smooth operation of the

drawers and door will

depend upon it.

7. Fit other long bracing

strip (V) into notch at

front of divider so that its

ends are flush with tops

and fronts of cabinet

sides. (Trim on divider

will protrude 3/4 in. at

front) Use No 8 bit to

drill through front

bracing strip into divider

and drive in a 1 1/2-in No

8 screw. Drill one hole

through each side into

each end of each long

bracing strip and drive

2-in No 8 screws into

the holes

4. Turn assembly right

side up Apply glue to

long horizontal dado in left

cabinet side (B) and insert

left edge of cabinet floor

into it so that front edges

of floor and side are flush.

Clamp unit and prop up

opposite side of cabinet

floor with two scrap 2 x 4's

set on edge so that

cabinet will sit level until

the glue dries.

8. Check measurement

and cut short bracing

strips (W). Clamp one

strip against inside of

right cabinet side (A)

with its ends butting long

bracing strips (V). Use

No, 8 combination bit to

drill three holes through

cabinet side into short

bracing strip. Clamp

other strip to left side.

This time, drill pilot holes

through strip into side

Attach strips with 2-in

No 8 screws. Sand

inside of cabinet with

Nos. 80, 100, 150, and

220 paper

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Kitchen base cabinet

9. Cut trim (Q) for front

edges of cabinet sides,

and clamp trim flush

with inner edges and

tops of sides. Use No.

10 bit to drill pilot holes

every 8 in. through trim

into front edges of sides.

Counterbore holes % in.

deep. Glue and screw

trim in place. Remove

clamps when glue is dry.

Use No. 10 plug cutter

to cut plugs (U) from

cherry Glue plugs into

screw holes, and chisel

and sand their tops flush

with trim.

13. Cut platform beams

(Z and AA) to size

Position one long beam

parallel to wall and 1 1/2

in from it Put two short

2x4 scraps into gap to

maintain spacing and

serve as nailing

surfaces. Position other

long beam parallel to

first and 16 in away

Level each beam, if

necessary, by pushing a

cedar shingle under it

as far as needed. Level

beams with each other

in same way, being sure

to keep each beam level

along its length

10. Mark trim on cabinet

sides 6 in. from top.

Mark trim on divider and

left side 12 in. and 21 1/2

in. from top. Cut a piece

of trim and position it

across cabinet front

flush with tops of trim on

sides. Use a knife to

mark divider where trim

crosses it. Cut and

position a second piece

of trim with top edge at

6-in mark and a third

piece with top edge

flush with top of cabinet

floor. Mark divider where

these pieces cross it.

14. Position the short

beams (AA) between

ends of long ones Level

short beams, then level

all beams with each

other Use 12d nails to

toenail the 2 x 4 scraps

to wall, face-nail inner

long beam to scraps,

toenail short beams to

inner long beam, and

face-nail outer long

beam to short beams.

Also toenail each piece

to kitchen floor Cut

kickplate (P), and nail it

flush with top of outside

beam with 6d finishing

nails every 10 in

11. Use saber saw to

cut 13 /16-in.-deep notches

in divider trim where

horizontal trim will hit it,

using knife marks as

guides. With No. 10 bit

drill a deep hole

through each piece of

trim into divider. Glue

and screw trim to divider

Drill pilot holes and glue

and screw top trim to

bracing and bottom trim

to cabinet floor. Plug all

holes. Use No 8 bit to

drill through trim on

sides into ends of

horizontal trim. Drive in

2-in. screws

15. Position cabinet on

platform with back edge

of left side (B) touching

wall and cabinet back

(L) 1/2 in. from wall

Front

of cabinet should be 2

3/4

in from kickplate If

there are gaps between

left side and wall, set a

compass with its point

and pencil as wide

apart as widest gap

Draw point of compass

down wall so that pencil

will mark contours of

wall on left side. Plane

or sand away wood

behind marks to make

side fit flush with wall.

12. Cut two pieces of

trim and position them

between trim on divider

and left cabinet side so

that top of one piece is

at 12-in. mark and top of

other piece is at 21 1/2-in.

mark made in Step 10

Use No. 10 bit to drill

holes through trim

on divider and on left

cabinet side into ends of

short horizontal trim.

Drive in No. 10 screws.

Use router with chamfer

bit to bevel any edges of

trim that will face the

door or a drawer.

16. Drive 8d nails

through cabinet floor into

platform every 10 in

Using dimensions in

chart on page 115 for

parts F-K, make three

small and two large

drawers To do so, cut

drawer faces (N and O)

to size, then follow the

directions for making

drawers in platform bed,

but skip Steps 16-18

and use 20-in. slides

instead of the larger

ones required for the

bed Sand and set aside

drawers

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Cabinet - Kitchen Base Cabinet.pdf

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