instructions_strapless.pdf

Strapless bra with vertical cup seam

65/30/8 B 65/30/8 C

You need

fashion fabric +/- half a meter, this has to be stretch fabric

much used are lycra and lace

picot elastic 2 meters should be plenty, try to find wide elastic for the band, as this is what

makes the bra stay in place

you can also use special elastic for strapless lingerie

soft tulle usually sold per piece, 1 piece should be enough

padding padding is foam with a layer of cotton on one side and a layer of another

fabric on the other side.

If you can't find it, use another type of foam and line the bra, for example

with cotton jersey

wire casing 1 meter will be plenty

shoulder straps ready made or +/- 1 meter of lose strap and a set of rings

fold over elastic 50 cm will be plenty

1 pair of wires

1 hooks and eyes closure

Printing the pattern

Print the pattern with settings to full page.

Tracing the pattern

For the padding or foam, trace the pieces without seam allowance.

Trace the rest of the pattern pieces and add 0,75 cm (1/3'') seam allowance. If you use wide elastic

for the band, add more seam allowance to the bottom of piece 1 (the band piece), if you use lace

with a scalloped edge you don't have to add seam allowance, but you could if you like a wider band.

If you use lace with a scalloped edge you don't have to add seam allowance to the top of the cup

(pieces 2 and 3). If you use another fabric and don't use a lining, add some extra seam allowance to

the top of the cup.

If you want to use a larger or smaller hook and eye closure (3 hooks and eyes or more), you can

easily adjust the centre back to be the same height as your closure.

There are several options for the cups:

1. Stretch the fabric over the padding cups (pattern piece not provided, because it depends on

your fabric if this is possible.

2. Cut the fashion fabric as 2 pieces like with the padding, but with added seam allowance

3. Cut the fashion fabric as 1 piece and add seam allowance.

Fabric choice and pieces that need to stretch

Soft tulle does not stretch.

The centre front lining piece needs to be made from a fabric that does not stretch.

The band (piece 1) need to be made from stretch fabric, otherwise the bra will not be comfortable to

wear. If you have a beautiful lace that does not stretch, divide your piece 1 in 2 pieces and make the

piece in the back from a stretchy material.

Cutting the pieces

1 cut 2 from fashion fabric (or cut on fold, if you use lace cutting 2 is better)

1a cut 2 from soft tulle (or one on fold)

2 cut 2 from padding, 2 from fashion fabric, 2 from lining (optional)

3 cut 2 from padding, 2 from fashion fabric, 2 from lining (optional)

For everything you need a left and a right piece.

If you are in doubt about the bandsize, cut it a bit larger and try it on with the hooks and eyes basted

on it, you can always choose to cut it smaller at that stage.

It is best to cut with small scissors and not to cut 2 layers of fabric at the time, it costs more time,

but a centimetre difference is a lot more than it is with a skirt.

Putting the bra together

The band pieces

Stitch the two pieces 1a together in the centre front. (optional)

Stitch the two pieces 1 together in the centre front. (optional)

Fold the edge of piece 1a over to finish the seam, baste.

Stitch piece 1 to the lining piece 1 right sides together at the top of the centre front.

Now fold piece 1 and the lining piece one wrong sides together and baste. From now on you will

treat this as if it were one piece of fabric. Stitch the edge of piece 1a to piece 1 with a (triple) zigzag

stitch.

The cups

Attach pieces 2 and 3 of padding with a flat seam. Use a triple zigzag stitch for this.

Stitch unfolded fold over elastic over this seam to make it more smooth. If you use a scalloped lace,

finish the top of the padding cups with folded fold over elastic.

Stitch pieces 2 and 3 of fashion fabric together with a straight stitch, if you use lining, do this also

for your lining.

If you use lace for the cups, stitch the lace over the padding, the cotton side is the inside.

If you don't line the cups, stitch the right side of the fashion fabric to the inside of the cup, fold the

fashion fabric over to the outside and stitch it on the padding.

If you use a lining, stitch the top of the lining cup and fashion fabric cup with a straight stitch right

sides together. Put your padding cups between the lining and fashion fabric. Stitch the layers

together around the edges.

From now on you will treat a cup as if it were one piece of fabric.

Baste the cups to piece 1 and stitch with a straight stitch.

Finishing the band (the bottom of it)

If you use fashion fabric with a finished edge, with a triple or normal zigzag, stitch (wide) picot

elastic on the inside, with the soft side in and the picots to the bottom edge, cover the edge of your

lining.

If you use fashion fabric that doesn't have a finished edge, with a triple or normal zigzag, stitch

(wide) picot elastic to the outside of the band, soft side up and picots pointed toward the fabric.

Fold the elastic over to the inside and stitch again with a triple or normal zigzag.

Stretch your elastic, it should be about 80% of the length of your fabric band.

Wire casing

First stitch your wire casing with a straight stitch to the cup along the stitch that you made to set the

cups in. Fold your wire casing over to partially cover the elastic and stitch again with a straight

stitch.

Finishing the top of the band

With a zigzag stitch, stitch picot elastic on the right side of the fabric, with the picots pointing to the

fabric, stretch the elastic a little. Fold the elastic over to the inside and stitch again with a zigzag

stitch.

Adding straps and hooks and eyes closure

Make small loops from shoulder strap material to attach your removable straps.

Baste the hooks and eyes closure to your bra.

Try it on.

If the band is too wide, make it smaller and try it on again to see if the straps are still in the right

positions.

If you're happy with the placement of the straps and the length of the band, stitch the straps on with

a zigzag stitch and stitch the hooks and eyes closure on with a straight stitch.

Possible adjustments

You can easily make this pattern suited for a larger cupsize and smaller bandsize and for a smaller

cupsize and a larger bandsize.

For a larger cupsize and smaller bandsize, remove 2 centimetres from piece 1 in the centre back.

For a smaller cupsize and larger bandsize, add 2 centimetres to the centre back.

For two cupsizes larger and two bandsizes smaller, you could remove 4 centimetres from the back,

but you may have to distribute the 4 centimetres difference over the centre front and centre back,

removing 3 centimetres from the back and 1 from the front or 3.5 from the back and 0.5 from the

front.

For two cupsizes smaller and two bandsizes larger, you could add 4 centimetres from the back, but

you may have to distribute the 4 centimetres over the centre front and centre back, adding 3

centimetres to the back and 1 to the front or 3.5 to the back and 0.5 to the front.

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: