1 Kapcie_szydełkiem.doc

Crocheted Soccasins

A Free Pattern by Megan Mills

Crocheted Soccasins by Megan Mills

Experience Level: Experienced or Adventurous

Size: Approximately 14 cm long and 11cm tall with the sock folded down as illustrated.

Materials
2 x 50g balls of brown double knitting wool
1 x 50g ball of cream 4-ply baby wool
3.5mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge)
3mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge)
Wool needle to tidy away ends

Gauge on Foot section
From the top of one ridge to the top of the 3rd ridge above it (measuring 4 ridge lines) is 2.2cm.
10 stitches is 4.5cm

Gauge on Sock section
Unstretched 5 rows (which will look like three lines of Vs) is 1cm. 10 stitches is 3.5cm.

Special Notes

Check at the end of each round that you have the right number of stitches.

Work into the back loops of all stitches and chains unless instructed otherwise.

Always turn clockwise as viewed from looking down on your work.
The back ridge is the line of bumps on the back of a chain, as opposed to the smooth chain on the front.

When you have turned and started a new round do not skip the first dc, work into it.

The foot is worked in rounds but you turn after joining each round using a Special Join:
This manoeuvre takes a lot of words to describe but is quick to do. It moves the working yarn from one side of the work to the other. When you turn and work you will get a much tidier result than the usual method.
1. Insert hook under both loops of first dc of the round and pull through a loop.
2. Withdraw hook from that loop.
3. Leaving a little of the working yarn loose in the back bring working yarn under hook between the dropped loop and the loop on the hook.
4. Reinsert the hook in the dropped loop and pull that loop through the other loop on the hook.
5. Holding the loose working yarn at the back firmly pull up the modified slip stitch you have just done very firmly so it is tiny.
6. Pull on the loose yarn at the back to firm up the loop on the hook.
7. Pull on the working yarn at the front to pull all the loose yarn through.

A video demonstration of this special join is available here: http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gkHQ22M4M

or if you are viewing this pattern online then the video is embedded below:

When working the instep of the foot section you will be working short rows and will need to Close the Gap:
Insert hook through the ss before the 1st turn, insert hook through the st the ss was worked into on the side of the foot, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.

When joining the cuff section to the side of the foot you will use a Joining Double Crochet:
Insert hook in last dc of row and draw through a loop, insert hook through next free st on side of foot, yoh, draw through all loops on hook.

Instructions

Sole Use Double Knitting Wool and 3.5mm hook.

Ch 19 slightly loosely.

Remember to work in the back loops.

Round 1 (wrong side):  1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 16dc, 3dc in last ch. Do not turn, work down other side of chain, 16dc, 2dc in same ch as first dc of round, sj. TURN. (38dc)

Round 2: 1ch, 1 dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st (the same space as the first dc of the rnd), sj. TURN. (44dc)

Round 3: 1ch, 44dc, sj in top of first dc of round, TURN. (44dc)

Round 4: 1ch, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (56 dc)

Round 5: 1ch, 56dc, sj. TURN. (56dc)

Round 6: 1ch, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (68 dc)

Side of Foot Rounds 7 to 11 inclusive: 1ch, 68dc, sj. TURN. (68 dc)

Instep

Round 12: 1ch, 26dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 25 dc, sj. TURN.

Round 13: 1ch, 34dc, cg, 25dc, sj. TURN. (60dc)

Round 14: 1ch, 22dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 21 dc, sj. TURN.

Round 15: 1ch, 30dc, cg, 21dc, sj. TURN. (52dc) Ballet Slipper Stage complete.

Round 16: 1ch, 18dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 17 dc, sj. TURN.

Round 17: 1ch, 26dc, cg, 17dc, sj. TURN. (44dc) Slipper Stage complete.

Round 18: 1ch, 14dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 13 dc, sj. TURN.

Round 19: 1ch, 22dc, cg, 13dc, sj. TURN. (36dc) Soccasin Stage complete.

Cuff 1 is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)

Remember to work in the back loops. 12ch.

Row 1: dc into back loop of second ch from hook, 9 dc, jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.

Row 2: 11dc.

Row 3: Insert hook from far-side to near-side in front loop of last dc worked (as it faces you). Turn the work clockwise. Yoh and pull through one loop on hook, yoh and pull through both loops on hook. 9 dc, 1jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have done 18 rows (you will be at the centre front of the foot). Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.

Cuff 2 is joined down the right side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)

Row 1: Join in new yarn in the next free dc to the right of the centre back. Work 11 dc into 'back ridge' of beginning chain so that an outline stitch line is made up the centre back.

Rows 2 and 3 are like 3 and 2 for Cuff 1 but when you work into the dcs on the side of the foot you will work into the front loops as they face you. This will make the join symmetrical with the first half of the cuff.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows. TURN. Join first three sts at bottom of cuff split together by slip stitching through the back loops on Cuff 2 and the front loops on Cuff 1. Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end.

Cuff Trim Remember to work in the back loops.

Round 1: Join yarn at centre back of cuff and work around right side (if looking down on the foot with the toe pointing away from you). 1dc for each ridge and 1 dc for each valley to next corner - being careful to pick up just 1 thread at the top edge to prevent holes in the work. End on a valley. In same stitch work 1ch, 1dc (so that corner st has 1dc, 1ch, 1dc worked into it).
Work down split in cuff: 7 dc, 2ss (the 2nd ss goes where you joined the 3 sts at the bottom of the cuff split).
Work up the other side of the split in the cuff: 2ss (the 1st ss goes where joined the 3sts at the bottom of the cuff split), 7dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into top of first ridge, work 1dc for each valley and 1dc for each ridge to the end of the round, sj in first dc of the round. TURN.

Round 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to corner, in corner ch work (1dc, 1ch, 1dc).
For split in cuff: 8dc, ss, skip 2 sts, ss, 8dc.
(1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in corner ch, 1dc in each st to end of round. Break thread and join invisibly to first dc of the round. Tidy away all ends.

The Sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)

It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.

With the soccasin right side out fold the cuff completely down to expose, below where the cuff was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge. You will attach the sock into these loops.

Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.

Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.

Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.

Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN.

Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the backloops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to the first ss of the row too tightly - you are going to be working into it on the way back.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around.

After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end.

After a few rows turn the whole soccasin inside out it will be easier to join in the sock. A couple of rows before you have gone all the way around turn it the right way out again.

When you have gone all the way around and have just done a Row 3 you will finish by doing a ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row to make the final seam. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one.

Fasten off and tidy away all ends.

Make yourself another one to match and enjoy.

You might like to play with stripes on these soccasins - the socks especially will look effective because the stripes will be vertical (and so easy to do).

Have a little play with the sock. Isn't that beautifully elastic? It looks like a gorgeous 1x1 knitted ribbing but is much more elastic than any rib I've ever knitted, even crossed or 2x2. If you are a knitter you might like to consider substituting it for the usual knitted cuff on a sleeve.

Mary-Jane Style Instructions

Back Ridge: To work in the back ridge means to work through just the bump on the back of the chain. You turn the chain towards you to access it.

Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.

Right Strap

Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.

Row 1: Rejoin yarn 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc, ch13. Turn. Adjust for length of strap here as you need.

Row 2: 1dc in Back Ridge of 2nd ch from hook and next 11 ch, 1dc in back loop of each st to end. Turn.

Row 3: 1dc in each stitch to end, 4ch, ss to bottom of the ch you did on Row 1 for the strap. Adjust these ch if you need for this button loop depending on the size of button you have.

Fasten off and tidy away ends.

Left Strap

Remember to work in the Back Loops unless otherwise instructed.

Fasten off at the end of the Slipper Stage of the Soccasin pattern.

Row 1: Ch 17, adjust length of strap if you need. The first 5 ch are used for the button loop so adjust for this now also depending on the size of your button. Starting 13 sts from the centre back on the right-hand side, 26dc. Turn.

Row 2: 1dc in each st until you reach the ch, 1dc in Back Ridge of each ch until 5 ch remain. Turn.

Row 3: 1dc in first st, remove hook, insert hook in 1st ch made on Row 1 and pull loop from the last dc through, 1dc in each st to end.

Fasten off and tidy away ends. Attach buttons of your choice.

Mary Jane Sock Top:

The sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you)

It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook.

With the slipper right side out fold the strap down to expose, below where it was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge on the inside of the slipper. You will attach the sock into these loops.

Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook.

Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain.

Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN.

Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN.

Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the back loops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to do the first ss of the row too tightly - you are going to be working into it on the way back.

After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have joined in to 13 of the loops on the inside of the foot. When you join to the 14th loop you will be on a Row 3. At the end of that row join into the 14th loop but do not turn. Ss into the next 5 loops, TURN.

Next row: Work back like Row 2 working a ss into the back loops of the extra stitches you worked down the side of the foot.

Next row: Do not skip 1st ss, ss through the back loops of all the stitches of the previous row, ss into where you joined onto the foot on the last row and ss into the next next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. This makes the row longer for the instep.

Next Row: As for Row 2.

Repeat the last two rows, with each pair getting longer, until you have just joined to the centre front and worked back as for Row 2.

Next Row: Do not skip 1st ss, ss through the back loops of all the stitches of the previous row, ss into the next next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Note - you have stopped working into the same loop where the previous join was done.

Next Row: Skip the first st you usually would work, complete as for Row 2. This is now making the rows shorter again.

Repeat the last 2 rows until you have 18 loops remaining on the inside of the foot and have just joined to the foot.

Next Row: Remove hook from loop, insert hook UPwards through next loop on the inside of the foot, pull working loop through, remove hook and reposition so that you can do a ss in the next st on the previous row (where you usually would for a Row 2). Do this until 13 loops remain on the inside of the foot - you have joined the side part of the instep extension to the side of the foot. Continue to end as for Row 2.

Check that you are now back to the original number of sts in the row as you had at the very beginning of the sock. If it is out by one or two sts fudge them over the next couple of few rows. They must match when you are ready to join the back seam.

Continue all the way around as set at the start. When you have just done a Row 3 and joined to the final loop do the seam: ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one.

Fasten off and tidy away all ends.