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Plans NOW

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Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets

If you’ve dreamed of building a kitchen full of cabinets, stop dreaming and start building.

Here’s what you need to know to get custom results for half what stock cabinets cost.

workers, outfitting a

kitchen with hand-

crafted cabinets is the dream

project. Who hasn’t looked

at stock cabinets built with

particleboard, hotmelt glue

and staples and thought, “I

could build something a

whole lot better than this

for half the money.”

And they’re right. By

building your own cabinets,

you can upgrade materials

and construction methods.

You’re also not locked into

“stock” sizes. The style,

look, finish, and features are

completely up to you.

If you think about it, cab-

inets are just a bunch of

boxes. The only real chal-

lenge is the size of such a

project. And that’s manage-

able as long as you know

where to get started and

how to proceed.

In the following pages,

we’ll walk you through how

we built these cabinets and

how they compare with

stock cabinets purchased

from a home center. And

hopefully inspire you to

consider building your

own.

RAISED PANELS

BEVELED GLASS

LIGHTED VALANCE

3 / 8 " INSET DRAWERS

CUTTING BOARD

CUSTOM HARDWARE

From Workbench Magazine

Page 1

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F or many home wood-

CABINET AREA DIMENSIONS

54 "

96"

36"

145 "

!/2

45"

Allow 36" - 48" inches of open

access space between banks of cabinets

or between cabinets and a work island.

FLOOR PLAN

Window

Sink

Dishwasher

BUY OR BUILD?

Unless you’re independently wealthy,

there’s a limit on how much you can

spend for store-bought (stock) cabi-

nets. The typical approach is to pick

out what you like, then whittle away

at the extras to stay within budget.

But suppose you could spend that

same amount on materials. By dis-

counting the labor (after all, this is

time spent in the shop), you can keep

some of those extras and upgrade the

materials and improve the quality. I

found this out first-hand with this

kitchen project.

Because kitchen configurations

can vary so greatly, I built one basic

wall of cabinets shown above. The

wall measures just over 12 feet long

and has a double-hung window

24"

145 "

centered within the space. I wanted

the sink to be located directly

underneath the window. Since there

isn’t a soffit in this room, I could use

extra-tall (42") wall-hung cabinets.

To help justify building the cabi-

nets, I decided to do a little compar-

ison shopping. So I took the layout to

a local home center and asked them

to fill the space with stock cabinets.

The stock cabinets I selected were a

raised-panel style in red oak that fell

slightly above mid-range in price.

(See the description and photo of

these cabinets at the bottom of the

next page ).

To outfit the kitchen with these

basic, no-frill oak cabinets (see the

next page ), the estimated cost was

$2,553. When I asked them to price

the same set-up in cherry, it jumped

to $3,403. Shipping to our door was

another $110.

By contrast, materials for the

cherry cabinets I built cost less than

$1,400. And my design included a

PLANNING AND IDEAS

Obviously, you can’t just start building

cabinets without extensive planning.

While we don’t have room to address

those issues here, we can steer you in the

right direction.

Some of the best information on kitchen

layout and design that I found was pub-

lished by kitchen cabinet manufacturers.

The free brochures at home centers contain

checklists of what to consider: appliance

sizes, utility locations, and the types of activ-

ities and features that are important to you.

They provide grids for laying out the

kitchen and are excellent sources for ideas

on cabinet styles and layouts.

For additional reading, check out

Kitchens That Work: A Practical Guide to

Creating a Great Kitchen by Martin and

Richard Edic (Taunton, 1999), and Building

Traditional Kitchen Cabinets by Jim Tolpin

(Taunton, 1994). Check your library or

contact Taunton Press at (800) 477-8727.

From Workbench Magazine

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#/4

!/2

20"-deep above-counter pantry

unit with a built-in cutting board

and a knife rack (see page 12 ). Such

a unit wasn’t available in stock cabi-

netry except as a 24"-deep, full-

height pantry unit that over-

whelmed the small space.

In fact, the cost was so far below

stock cabinets I was able to add in a

few more extras. One particularly

nice touch was the display cabinet

with beveled glass in both the door

and the exposed side. The cabinets

also feature custom frame-and-

panel cabinet ends and a cove mold-

ing along the ceiling.

cost difference to upgrade from ½"-

thick melamine to ¾" veneer ply-

wood was fairly insignificant.

RAISED PANEL SUBSTITUTES

I decided to build these cabinets

using raised panels. And I’ll admit it

added both time and cost to glue up

solid wood panels, but I thought it

was worth it.

A quicker, less expensive option

is to build flat panel doors using ¼"

veneer plywood (see the top photo

at right).

If painted cabinets will work in

your kitchen, you might want to

consider milling the raised panels in

medium density fiberboard (MDF)

and building the rails and stiles in

poplar. Inexpensive MDF offers the

added advantage of being stable,

compared to the expansion and

contraction of solid wood panels.

Poplar

and MDF

(painted)

Quartersawn

white oak Walnut

Curly

maple

Flat panel

cherry

MATERIAL CONSIDERATIONS

If you stop by any home center you

can find stock cabinets in oak,

maple, cherry, hickory, pine, and

birch. In most cases, at least the face

frames, doors, and drawer fronts will

be solid wood.

If you build your own cabinets,

you’re not limited to these materials

(see some other options top right).

Another advantage is being able

to select and match grain pattern

and color. Manufacturers can’t afford

to spend time doing this. Instead,

grain patterns are random and they

use a toner to give the wood a uni-

form color and appearance.

The materials used commercially

for cabinet carcases, drawer boxes,

shelves, and interior divider panels

can vary widely. Usually, at least some

of these parts are made from vinyl-

covered particleboard or melamine.

Because my cabinet project

required relatively small quantities

of material for these parts, the total

My shop-built cabinets feature 3 / 8 " inset, solid cherry

raised panel doors with wide rails. These features

weren’t available in stock cabinetry.

STOCK CABINET COSTS: (Raised-panel red oak)

(2) Wall Cabinets (12"D x 27"W x 42"H) $475.54

(2) Wall Cabinets (12"D x 30"W x 42"H) 492.90

(1) Three-drwr. Unit (12"D x 30"W x 18"H) 301.94

(1) Base w/ Pots/Pans Drwr. (24"D x 30" W) 377.27

(1) Base w/ Trays (24"D x 36"W)

SHOP-MADE MATERIAL COSTS:

4 /4 Cherry - 100 bd. ft @ $4.95/bd. ft.

$495.00

(Face frames, doors, drawer fronts, toekicks)

4 /4 Birch - 30 bd. ft @ $2.69/bd. ft.

80.70

(Drawer sides, nailers, blocking)

3 / 4 " Birch plywood - 5 sheets @ $52.50/sheet 262.50

(Carcase sides, bottoms, dividers, shelves)

1 / 4 " Birch plywood - 5 sheets @ $18.69/sheet 93.45

(Carcase backs, drawer bottoms)

22" Accuride full extension drawer slides

380.99

(1) Base w/4 Drwr. (24"D x 18"W)

194.37

(1) Sink Base (24"D x 42"W)

221.34

148.50

(1) Scalloped Valance

49.60

(11 pr. @ $13.50/pr)

18" Accuride full extension drawer slides

(1) 3"-Wide Base Filler

17.67

12.50

(1) 3"-Wide Wall Filler

26.66

(1 pr @ $12.50/pr)

B eveled glass (2 pieces)

(2) Matching Toe kick Panels

14.88

100.00

TOTAL

$2,553.16

Bin pulls (antique brass) - 16 @ $1.40 ea.

22.40

Knobs (antique brass) - 11 @ $1.10 ea.

12.10

NOTE: The costs shown do not include countertop.

The stock cabinets as priced do not come with knobs

and drawer pulls. Stock cabinet installation is avail-

able from most dealers at $30-$50 per linear foot.

Hinges (antique brass) - 12 pr @ $1.99/pr.

23.88

Miscellaneous hardware

30.00

Stain and Finish

60.00

TOTAL

$1,341.03

STOCK CABINETS: OVERVIEW

So you could see the actual differences

between stock cabinets and our shop-

built units, we bought two base cabi-

nets and two wall-hung units built by

a nationally-known manufacturer.

We had to order them through a

local home center — few distributors

actually carry an inventory of cabinets.

Even with the current building and

remodeling boom, it took just four

weeks for delivery.

These cabinets, pictured at right,

were a basic straight frame-and-raised

panel design that represented the

upper middle price range. For addi-

tional cost, we could have upgraded

some components (more decorative

arched panels, plywood side panels,

and heavier drawer slides).

At the bottom of the following

pages we’ll show construction details

of these cabinets.

From Workbench Magazine

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ANATOMY OF A CABINET

Nailer

STANDARD CABINET DIMENSIONS

( END VIEW )

Rail

Back

Carcase

side

Stile

30" - 42"

Nailer

WALL CABINET

Face frame

Corner

brace

12"

18"

Nailer

26"

Back

Divider

Center

stile

Stile

Carcase

side

24"

36"

Drawer

rail

Toe kick

Rail

BASE CABINET

Face frame

CABINET STANDARDS EXPLAINED

If you think about it, cabinets are

really furniture for the kitchen. And

like most furniture, stock cabinets

are built to standard dimensions that

make them comfortable to work at.

The primary dimensions for cab-

inets are shown in the End View

above.The surface of a countertop is

typically 36" high, ideal for most

kitchen tasks.

Standard depth for base cabinets

(not including the countertop) is 24".

If they’re deeper, it puts you farther

away from the wall cabinets and lim-

its how far up and out you can reach.

Base units also have a toe kick

space that’s 3" deep and 4" high.The

toe kick lets you stand up close to the

cabinets without bumping your toes.

Standard wall cabinet depth is

usually 12" — just deep enough to

hold most dinner plates. The height

can range from 30" to 42", depend-

ing on whether the room has a soffit.

There’s usually 18" of separation

between the countertop surface and

the bottom of the wall cabinets.This

puts the middle shelf in the upper

cabinets at roughly 72" — a height

most people can still reach without

getting a step stool.

Width for most stock cabinets

varies from 12" to 48", in 3" incre-

ments.The drawback here is that not

every wall space neatly fits this 3"

scheme. My 12' 1½"-long wall, for

example, would have required me to

buy a filler strip and trim it to 1½"-

wide to “extend” the stock cabinets.

SIZED TO FIT

The beauty of building your own

cabinets is that you’re not locked

into these dimensions.They can still

serve as a guide, but you can vary

them to fit your particular needs.

For example, you can vary

heights and widths to easily work

around strange door and window

configurations. A shorter base cabi-

net puts the counter at a height that

makes kneading and rolling out

dough easier for bakers.

While some manufacturers now

offer “universal design” cabinets that

accommodate persons with physical

disabilities (including those in wheel-

chairs), you can really tailor your

shop-built cabinets to meet individ-

ual needs. It’s all of those custom

From Workbench Magazine

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CUSTOM CABINET LAYOUT

This base cabinet is

built as a single unit.

Cabinet butted against

wall without need for

filler strip.

Continuous rail

16 "

!/4

End stiles

extend to floor

Dishwasher

Continuous rail

Continuous toe kick

touches that provide one of the

greatest incentives for building

instead of buying.

At first glance, the main section

of cabinets in the two drawings on

this page look similar. Look closer

and you’ll see that large base cabinet

at the left ( above ) is a single unit

compared to the three separate

stock cabinets ( below ).

By building one large unit, it

eliminated the double stiles and gaps

between the separate cabinets (see

the photo at right). I was able to use

this extra space to make drawers

that are 14 1 / 4 " wide inside, com-

pared to only 13" in the stock unit.

There’s another advantage as

well. It took less material — two

end panels, two dividers, and four

stiles vs. six end panels and six stiles

on the stock set. I also think the

continuous rails and toekick, and

the single stiles give my cabinets a

much cleaner look.

Cabinets this large

can be hard to move

once they’re assembled

(that’s another reason

you can’t buy a stock

cabinet this size). But as

you’ll see on the next

page , the parts can be

machined ahead of

time and easily assem-

bled in the kitchen just

prior to installation.

When you lay out

your cabinets, look for

the natural breaks

between cabinet sections, such as gaps

for appliances. For example, I

designed my base cabinets in two sec-

tions, fitting them on either side of

the dishwasher.The larger unit incor-

porates the sink base, a drawer unit

and a drawer-and-doors base.

MAXIMIZE THE SPACE

The concept behind stock cabinets

is that manufacturers build a variety

of small, easy-to-handle units that

can be combined to fit most any sit-

uation.They’re easy to mass produce

and sized so the cabinet companies

can get maximum usage from stan-

dard sized sheet goods. And com-

pact sizes (42" widths or less) are

easier to ship and store.

While this approach works well

for the manufacturers, distributors,

and installers, it winds up wasting

space. Especially in a small kitchen

where space is extremely valuable,

you don’t want to waste even a few

extra inches.

A single stile and a 3 / 4 "-thick

plywood divider panel sepa-

rate compartments in the

large base unit.

STOCK CABINETS: MULTIPLE BOXES TAKE EXTRA SETUP

When you install stock base cabinets, you

have to shim the cabinets plumb and level

to the room and each other — a time

consuming process. Once they’re lined up,

the face frames are clamped together and

long screws driven to fasten the face

frames together.

You also wind up with a double-wide

stile (with a joint line) where two cabinets

meet. It just doesn’t look as clean and

consistent as single width stiles.

15"

!/2

Screws hold

face frames

together.

From Workbench Magazine

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!/2

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