6015 Naomi jacket Instructions.pdf

PATTERN

1 Right front piece 1x

2 Left front piece 1x

3 Front facing 2x

4 Front side piece 2x

5 Back center piece 1x

6 Back side piece 2x

7 Back facing 2x

8 Lower sleeve 2x

9 Right sleeve 1x

10 Left sleeve 1x

11 Right facing (front) 1x

12 Left facing (front) 1x

13 Bias strips / neckline 1x

14 Tie-belt (back) 1x

15 Tie-belt (front) 2x

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as

necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary.

Blend the side edges.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece but never a cut

edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the

centre line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting

diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on

the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For

double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are

pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are extending over the fold

of the fabric shown in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a single

layer of fabric.

Fabric: Cotton fabric, linen

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:

The patterns are printed out on 63 sheets with a thin frame. Wait, until all

sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see extra

page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and

right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and then

tape the frame lines together precisely.

Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: Dresses, blouses,

jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers and skirts according to

the hip width. If necessary, change the pattern to fit your measurements if they

deviate from the Burda-dimension table. Cut out the pattern according to

your size.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average:

5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper transfer

the lines and signs of the pattern onto the wrong fabric side. You will find

instructions in the packaging.

Interfacing

Cut out the interfacing according to the drawing and press it onto the wrong

fabric side.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If you are taller or

shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces along the lines marked "lengthen or

shorten here". Thus the proper fit is preserved. Always adjust all pattern

pieces along the same line the same degree.

Sewing

While sewing the right fabric sides are facing. Transfer all lines of the

pattern onto the right fabric side using basting stitches

Jacket

Front facing

1 Pin the front facings on the right and left front piece (seam

1), right sides facing, and stitch. Trim allowances, snip.

2 Fold the facings inside and pin, press. Topstitch the edges

narrowly.

Back facings

3 Pin the back facings on the back center piece (seam 2),

right sides facing, and stitch. The hemline overlaps (arrow).

Trim allowances, snip. Fold the facings inside and baste,

press. Topstitch the edges narrowly.

Front princess seams / pocket openings

4 Position the front center pieces on the front side pieces,

the edges meet the marked lines. Pin the front center pieces

along the marked lines. Pin the top and side edges together.

Topstitch narrowly from the top to the cross line. Secure

seam ends (arrow). The drawing shows the right front

piece.

5 Pin the inner edges of the front side pieces and the facings

together, right sides facing, and stitch. Note an opening for

the tie-belt between the cross lines at the right front piece

(arrow). Secure seam ends. Trim the allowances, except

along the placket. Pin the top and side edges together.

Back pieces

Pin the back center pieces on the back side pieces

according to the text and drawing 4, topstitch narrowly

from the top down to the cross line. Stitch the inner edges

together according to the text and drawing 5. Note , leave

an opening for the tie-belt between the cross lines. Secure

the opening ends. Trim the allowances, except at the

opening ends. Pin the top and side edges together.

Side seams

6 Position the front piece on the back piece, right sides

facing, baste the side seams (seam 3), and stitch. Trim

allowances and press apart.

Apply lower sleeve

7 Position the lower sleeves on the armholes of the side

pieces, right sides facing, cross lines 5 meet. The cross

lines in the center of the lower sleeves meet the side

seams. Baste the sleeves (seam 4) and stitch, beginning

and ending at the seam markings (arrows). Secure seam

ends. Trim and neaten allowances.

Sleeves

8 Position the left sleeve on the right sleeve, right sides

facing. Stitch the back center seam (seam 6). Trim

allowances and press apart.

9 Pin the right sleeve , the right front piece and the lower

sleeve together, right sides are facing (seam 7), the cross

line meets the mark for the seam. Stitch the cross seam.

Trim allowances, neaten and press. Snip in the

allowances of the armhole.

Pin the left sleeve , the left front piece and the lower

sleeve together. Trim allowances, neaten and press. Snip

in the allowances of the armhole.

10 Pin the back sleeve edge , the back piece and the lower

sleeve together, right sides are facing (seam 8), the cross

lines meet the armhole seams. Stitch the cross seam. Trim

allowances, neaten and press. Snip in the allowances of

the armhole.

Tie-belt (pieces 14 and 15)

11 Fold the straps lengthwise, right sides facing. Stitch

the edges together, ½“ (1 cm) wide along the fold line.

The straps (piece 15) need an open short side to turn the

piece right side out. Leave an opening at the long edge of

piece 14 to turn it right side out. Turn the straps right side

out. Press the edges. Sew the raw seam of piece 14 by

hand. Pin the straps (piece 15) along the raw edges

between the cross lines onto the front edges.

Front edges / neckline

Fold the bias straps lengthwise, wrong sides facing. Press.

12 Pin the facings on the corresponding front pieces, right

sides facing. Pin the edges together (seam 9 and 10). Pin

the bias strips on the neckline in a way that the raw edges

are positioned on the allowances. The top edges are

positioned on the top facing edges. Fold the allowances of

the side facing edges inside. Topstitch the bias strips and

the facings, catching the strips. Trim allowances, snip in

at the curves. Cut the corners diagonally and neaten the

inner facing edges.

13 Facings, bias strips and back hemline. Fold the

hemline to the inside and baste, press.

14 Hand sew the back hemline and the facings up to the

curve.

15 Hand sew the side edges of hemline and facings

together. Topstitch the neckline, the front and back edges

up to the side seams narrowly.

Sleeve cuff

Trim the sleeve cuff edge, fold inside and pin, press.

Stitch the cuff seam according to the text and drawing 14.

Darts

16 Stitch darts at the top of the right and left sleeve

according to the drawing. Secure the seam ends through

backstitches. Knot the threads. Press the darts.

Pleat

17 Fold the pleat at the right front piece in such a way

that right fabric sides are facing, topstitch approximately

1“ (2cm) wide. Secure seam ends.

Thread loop

18 Apply a thread loop for the tie-belt at the inside of the

right front piece (above the waistline).

Pull the separate tie-belt through the opening under the

center back piece, the ends overlap in same length. Stitch

the strap next to the opening on the allowances of the

inner seams. Pull the tie-belt of the left front piece

(underlap) through the placket to the outside, pull through

the thread loop. Tie the right and left strap with the back

strap at the side.

Sew the tops of the snap buttons by hand on the inside of

the right front piece and on the outer corner of the left

front piece, respectively. Pin the right front piece on the

left front piece, the centers meet. Then mark the

placement spots for the snap button bases. Sew the base

pieces by hand.

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